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you´d need a CPBF (counter pressure bottle filler). :cheers:

Beer Belly, congratulations for the good work you´ve done :clap: That looks really excellent, makes me mouth watering. other way round, from 1060 to 1010 you´ll get more alcohol than from 1060 to 1015 guess you have meant it that way, just typed the wrong way. yes, thats right. I...

You may put the yeast on Agar/slants. That way I have stored and recultured yeasts after two years and more. Meanwhile I have a handsome yeast bank already and any time I like to brew, can choose a yeast and let it grow. I´m not sure whether the methode is already described here in the forum...

I really love my refractometer and I don´t need to know how much alcohol is produced during fermentation. If I wanna know the alcohol in the final beer product, I´d take a hydrometer. Most of the time I´m only interested in to know how the starting gravity was; thatfor the refractometer is a...

sorry mate, there are plenty of calculaters for refractometers on the net, none of them is even close to accurate. When the fermentation has started, that´s just a guess-o-meter any longer ;) So I´m using my refractometer only to determine the starting gravity. Cheers :cheers:

I second that. I´m using a 0-18 Brix as well and find it very handy. But forget about the refractometer when alcohol comes into the game. Cheers :cheers:

Excessive beer drinking has the same effect as Yoga have fun: http://www.elcom-mayer.de/bier/Yoga_engl.pdf

Hello markp, long time ago we had the same topic in the Aussiehomebrewer forum, just have a look: http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum// ... 16907&st=0 :cheers:

I do a combination of batch and fly sparge. explanation: my mash and lauter tun holds 50l volume I´m gonna start with 10kg of grain and 40l of water first lautering brings me around 30l of wort at an SG ~1080 then I´m gonna add another 30l of water for batch sparging, second lautering will...

since I´m a Pils drinker and Pilseners need at least 4 weeks lagering, I have 18 Cornelius kegs in circulation. :cheers:

that´s absolutely beautiful, wunderbar. Congratulations

looks absolutely great mates, good luck to you from Germany :cheers:

for a dry and crispy lager, I´d recommend you Northern Brewer for bitterness and Saazer for arome. That´s a yummy combination :cheers:

yeah, I can see that point, we Germans tend do do so as well......only my junk box is not big enough for that ;) happy brewing :cheers:

hmmm.... is it that much easier/cheaper to design a pot lifter, either way driven by a hand crank or by power, than simply to use a pump?

Hello brewers, why to move heavy weighted pots and vessels if you just want to move the wort from a to b in the end? why not to use a wort pump, so the vessels could be made permanent on a certain place? is it easier to construct a pot lifter or something similar? cheers

timbowden, it depends on the place where the fermenter stands. In case you have fruit flies or other nasties in your surroundings, I´d prefer to use an airlock. Especially if you leave the fermenter standing after the fermentation has finished. As soon as the fermentation has finished, means no...

commsbiff, at first I had the same thoughts as you, driving the hot wort through a long winding copper tube. But soon I was reckoning how long the copper pipe should be to cool down the boiling wort to ambient temps? ...and how much the copper would cost? ...then the volume of it....need a fan...

Hi Talisman, I´d say, most effective works a plate counter flow heatexchanger. positive: high efficiency, small dimensions, easy to handle negative: high water consumption to compensate the water consumption, I have two rainwater tuns in our backyard, each at a volume of 500l, one is filled...

Bones, that beer looks great, I´d say, that´s a perfect "Schwarzbier". Compliment, well done :cheers: