Inkbird?

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

Very helpful, thank you. ☺

You're welcome :hat:

For what it's worth, I would suggest the only chemicals you're likely to need are:

• Camden tablets (sodium metabisulphate - for removing Chlorine and/or Chloramine)
• Gypsum (Calcium Sulphate)
• Calcium Chloride (the dihydrate form)
• Epsom Salts (Magnesium Sulphate)

... and some CRS (also known as AML) which is basically a mixture of Hydrochloric and Sulphuric acid.

You can get the first three easily enough from eBay or Amazon, and MaltMiller sell the CRS/AML

I've found Bru'N Water good to work out how much of each to add in order to hit a particular profile - although you have to ignore it when it says your mineral levels are 'too high'

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

Another slight 'gotcha' if you follow some of the online discussions and instructions about water chemistry, is to believe that it's going to be 'best' to start from 100% distilled or reverse osmosis filtered water, and then to build up your profile from that. Actually your own tap water will contain a load of trace elements that are actually pretty beneficial to the yeast. I do end up using quite a bit of distilled water in my brews (50-75% depending on the profile I'm aiming for), but that's because my water is so hard. You shouldn't need to use it - or if so, probably no more than 25% unless you're brewing something like a Pilsner.

 

[Tess Tickle's Brewery]

Right you are - I'll bear that in mind. I have noticed when comparing my 'ashbeck' water profile on brewfather with my normal tap water one, there's a lot more 'stuff' in the tap water.

Like you say the lack of HCo3 data is a problem, along with us not knowing how to get the ph down. Seems almost impossible knowing the grain brings it down a bit. it's so difficult!

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

lack of HCo3 data is a problem, along with us not knowing how to get the ph down. Seems almost impossible knowing the grain brings it down a bit. it's so difficult!

Easiest way might be to get yourself some of the Salifert testing kits - they are easy (and good fun) to do and they will tell you what you need to know. Easy to get on Amazon etc

 

[Tess Tickle's Brewery]

Thanks again. I guess we'll start there.

 

[Gerryjo]

Acidulated malt is what I use as opposed to CRS or lactic.
The brew yesterday had 4kg of Maris Otter and 125g of acidulated malt and a mash pH of 5.5.

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

Acidulated malt is what I use as opposed to CRS or lactic.

Yeah - it works really well that stuff.
For me the CRS is useful because as well as dropping the pH it also boosts the sulphate and chlorides without me having to add more calcium (via gypsum and calcium chloride) :-)

 

[Gerryjo]

Yeah - it works really well that stuff.
For me the CRS is useful because as well as dropping the pH it also boosts the sulphate and chlorides without me having to add more calcium (via gypsum and calcium chloride) :-)

I use it in all my brews though finding the correct percentage with different grains a fiddle as the lower the EBC the more acid malt but it's only small amounts and something I must start making a record off.

 

[RichardM]

Thank you everyone - I will carry on researching to learn even more.

Definitely won't be making lagers - Jim hates them along with wheat beers (and some of the people that drink them)

I thought I didn't really like lager or wheat beers until I brewed some of my own. I then discovered that there are many different types of lager and wheat beer and that it is possible to brew good ones that are much bet than what is on draft in most pubs.

And a temperature controlled fermentation fridge helps!

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

I thought I didn't really like lager or wheat beers until I brewed some of my own. I then discovered that there are many different types of lager and wheat beer and that it is possible to brew good ones that are much bet than what is on draft in most pubs.

What 'e said...

 

[Tess Tickle's Brewery]

Homemade anything always tastes better!

 

[Tess Tickle's Brewery]

Acidulated malt is what I use as opposed to CRS or lactic.
The brew yesterday had 4kg of Maris Otter and 125g of acidulated malt and a mash pH of 5.5.

I'm starting to think this is the best way to go, along with some campden to start with and see how i go

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

About 1/2 a Camden tab in 30L of water - you want to crush it up well though, because I've found they don't dissolve too easily... a pestle and mortar works well, but if not you can try crushing it between two spoons

 

[Galena]

Your HCO3 (Bicarbonate) is the total hardness as CACO3 (mg/l) (about 110 on your water report) X 1.22 so your HCO3 for Brewfather is 134

 

[Gerryjo]

I'm starting to think this is the best way to go, along with some campden to start with and see how i go

If want you can stand your water over night to remove any chlorine as this will dissipate and when boiling this will get rid of any nasties or bugs in your water.

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

If want you can stand your water over night to remove any chlorine as this will dissipate and when boiling this will get rid of any nasties or bugs in your water.

That true for chlorine, but you can't get rid of chloromine by boiling :-(

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

Your HCO3 (Bicarbonate) is the total hardness as CACO3 (mg/l) (about 110 on your water report) X 1.22 so your HCO3 for Brewfather is 134

Hi Mr G - yes, Bru'N water suggests 134 for Bicarbonate too, and 0.1 for carbonate; but something's skewy because that doesn't give a balanced profile. What have I forgotten, I wonder...

 

[Gerryjo]

That true for chlorine, but you can't get rid of chloromine by boiling :-(

No not chloromine no needs to be removed by filtering or RO. Just checked Google to be sure.
I have access to a few spring Wells and I might give them a try to see though will check pH and hardness with the Salifert kit.

 

[Tess Tickle's Brewery]

Your HCO3 (Bicarbonate) is the total hardness as CACO3 (mg/l) (about 110 on your water report) X 1.22 so your HCO3 for Brewfather is 134

I assumed this was the case and that is the number I have put in. But not sure now lol

 

[jayk34]

I checked my water report a few weeks back online and has changed a bit since 2017 though I do have to email NI water for a brewers report which they give to homebrewers as they don't give pH or certain salt and mineral content online.Check out @strange-steve beginners guide which as excellent content for beginners.

Beginners Guide to Water Treatment (plus links to more advanced water treatment in post #1) | The HomeBrew Forum

Didn't know that about ni water. I was using the standard water report they have me from 2020 when I entered my postcode.

Any particular email that the request should be sent to ?