Coopers DIY Kit

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Chris_S

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I’ve have only just recently ventured into the world of home brewing, and seeing as these kits come with all you need to get started, why not.

I’ve followed the instructions and I’m 8 days in and things have slowed right down and should be ready for bottling soon.

How do I know when fermentation has completed. This FV doesn’t have your typical airlock so I am unable to detect any CO2 still being produced. My OG reading was suspect as with the supplied ingredients it should’ve been 1.038 but had 1.028 (maybe misread) The sample taken on day 7 was down to 1.008

Using the calculations that’s less than ABV 3%, but they expect 5%

Is it possible the hydrometer is at fault and needs a few extra days or if it has finished, will leaving it in be bad for the brew. During the process the lid has only been removed once to remove the Krausen collar.
 
This may help
Basic beginners guide to brewing your own beer from a kit - The HomeBrew Forum
If you have added all of the recommended sugars to the kit can and it has fermented out properly you will have achieved the target %ABV plus or minus a bit. It cant be otherwise,
And if you have read your hydrometer correctly an SG of 1.008 suggests its done. You can confirm this by taking SG readings on consecutive days and if its the same it has finished. It will also start to clear.
However the normal recommendation to new brewers (irrespective of what the kit instructions tell you) is to leave it in the FV for two weeks provided it has finished, then allow 2 weeks in a warm place after bottling and priming, and then another two weeks to condition or mature before sampling the first one. Don't be tempted to try and rush things, your patience will be rewarded at the end, as countless others have found out
 
Hi Chris! I also started with the Coopers DIY kit and made a few mistakes, especially early on. First thing you need to do is leave well alone for another 6 days and don't open the lid. The kit is basically foolproof in that the staring gravity is always going to be the starting gravity, unless you tip half the ingredients down the sink by accident. The yeast is fast fermenting and decent flocculating, as it is a real brewery yeast.

If you need some practice with the hydrometer, then at 20C the reading is 1.000 for tap water. Use that to calibrate any future readings. Where the liquid goes to to read 1.000 at 20C with water is where you take the reading from.

1.008 is where the Coopers kits tend to finish out, but leave it for a total of two weeks before bottling and don't be tempted to over-prime
 
Thanks terrym, that link was really helpful

As for leaving it in the FV with just the loose fitting lid is fine then?
 
Rook is right.

LME is some thick stuff and needs to be stirred very well to get into solution fully. If this is a kit and you mixed it correctly with the recommended ingredients it can't be wrong unless you used too much water and over diluted it.
 
Thanks guys

It was a kit, the one supplied in the box a Coopers lager. I had thought that I may have not mixed it thoroughly enough in my excitement to get it going.

I plan on leaving it ferment for a full two weeks though as suggested earlier in the thread

As a complete newbie even with simple kits, mistakes can happen. Lessons only learned through practice. I’ll know next time. Let’s hope all is not lost.

Will report back after my 2+2+2 has run its course
 
My OG reading was suspect as with the supplied ingredients it should’ve been 1.038 but had 1.028 (maybe misread)

This could be a long shot but I was getting some very off readings with my hydrometer at first. Not because there was anything wrong with the actual hydrometer but it came in a tiny plastic tube that was only just wide enough for it to fit into which was advertised with the ability to be used as a trial jar. In reality, however, it isn’t really good enough as the hydrometer just stops and sticks to the sides of the tube wherever it falls. Very much like the poxy shower curtain as soon as you turn the shower on!
 
This could be a long shot but I was getting some very off readings with my hydrometer at first. Not because there was anything wrong with the actual hydrometer but it came in a tiny plastic tube that was only just wide enough for it to fit into which was advertised with the ability to be used as a trial jar.

Supplied kit didn’t look high quality, so bought another to compare it with
 
@Markk and @Chris_S
You don't really need a sample jar/measuring cylinder to take an SG reading with a hydrometer.
I just lower the sanitised hydrometer into the wort or beer in the FV. Then take a reading. Simple
I've done it this way for years.
I did try the sample into cylinder method but found it wasn't worth the faff.
 
@Markk and @Chris_S
You don't really need a sample jar/measuring cylinder to take an SG reading with a hydrometer.
I just lower the sanitised hydrometer into the wort or beer in the FV. Then take a reading. Simple
I've done it this way for years.
I did try the sample into cylinder method but found it wasn't worth the faff.

Hmmm, thanks @terrym. Good idea, but my FV is almost to the top of my brew fridge and I have to take it out to remove the lid. It’s easier for me to just draw off a bit from the tap. I do enjoy the cheeky swig from the jar too ;)
 
It will most likely be fine.

Keep us posted please. Interested to hear how this turns out.

Finally got around to bottling the blighter. First time bottling and I can see why people turn to kegs

Managed to get 29 x 750ml bottles out of it, the last few bottles are gonna be suspect, no experience at all and disturbed the trub a little, but we’ll see in 4 weeks.

I think kegs will be on the shopping list soon 🙂
 
Finally got around to bottling the blighter. First time bottling and I can see why people turn to kegs

Managed to get 29 x 750ml bottles out of it, the last few bottles are gonna be suspect, no experience at all and disturbed the trub a little, but we’ll see in 4 weeks.

I think kegs will be on the shopping list soon 🙂
Go carefully.
All that glistens is not gold.
PBs are brilliant when they don't leak from seals, or ultimately fail (sometimes inconveniently when full) due to cracks or pinhole leaks which you can't fix
But when they do leak they are a pita.
Some folks swear by them, others swear at them.
 
with sufficient priming sugar and no leaks you shouldn't need to inject CO2. Indeed, I have vented a couple of barrels recently to get rid of the fire extinguisher effect due to excess pressure.

Paul.
 
Hmmm, thanks @terrym. Good idea, but my FV is almost to the top of my brew fridge and I have to take it out to remove the lid. It’s easier for me to just draw off a bit from the tap. I do enjoy the cheeky swig from the jar too ;)
I take a sample and leave it in the beer fridge with hydrometer in place, next to the FV.
You can see it drop over the days. It won't be exact but saves taking loads of samples.
I rarely take a final sample. Two weeks in the FV at 18-20C, it's done.
I know from fermentables I add roughly what the alcohol content will be.
 
Hello, we got the Cooper DIY kit that came with the Lager as well as their Hefe Weizen beer kit.

This is our first brew and I've been wanting to try making my own beer for quite a while now, but always been too lazy, don't have time blah blah.

And actually it's not that much effort at least with the extracts.

We did the lager first, the OG was 1,038 like the instructions said it would be but the fermenting stopped at 1,013, which means the beer is not as strong as expected. Only 3,3% while it should have been 4,5%. But it doesn't bother me much as long as the finished product is good tasting. It's been almost 2 weeks since bottling so we can try it for the first time this weekend, but I'm gonna let rest of them mature longer cause I've read it enhances the flavor.

We also started a hefe-weizen right after bottling the lager, we did add a little less water to make the OG 1,048, and the final for that was 1,010. I'm more excited about the Hefe but that's still 3 weeks until I'm gonna taste that one.
 
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