All Grain Equipment Set-Up

[Brewelder]

Hi everyone,

I’ve been brewing for around a year now (on & off due to work) and every brew has been an “Extract” brew such as Muntons West Coast IPA cos i luv the stuff. Plus a few Youngs IPA’s and currently a stout has just been kegged.

I’m now sort of semi retired and have a lot more time on my hands and was pondering on going down the all grain route, but apart from a couple of fermenters, a couple of corny kegs with C02 set-up, i don’t have any equipment.

So my question is, what is a typical set up for an all grain brew? And preferrably the best place (cheapest) to get it from?

Thanks in advance.

 

[CJV8]

I'm not sure there is such a thing as typical these days. Cheapest / easiest is probably BIAB (brew in a bag) which is certainly how I started out, a single vessel with a means to heat water, a bag to hold the grain and off you go. I guess it depends how deep you want to dive into the rabbit hole, and how much space you have available to brew in.

From your name I'm guessing you can weld? A lot of fun to be had in building your own gear from scratch. Not sure it'd be the cheapest however...

 

[Dutto]

Choice is either:

• An “All in one”, or
• A “Three Tier System”

As the name suggests, an all-in-one such as a Grainfather or Braumaster does everything up to fermenting.

A three tier system has a separate water heater, mash tun and boiler.

As a general rule the first is more expensive but a lot easier.

Enjoy!
:hat:

PS

Sorry, forgot “Brew in a Bag” which is generally used for smaller quantities!

 

[Cheshire Cat]

Choice is either:

• An “All in one”, or
• A “Three Tier System”

As the name suggests, an all-in-one such as a Grainfather or Braumaster does everything up to fermenting.

A three tier system has a separate water heater, mash tun and boiler.

As a general rule the first is more expensive but a lot easier.

Enjoy!
:hat:

PS

Sorry, forgot “Brew in a Bag” which is generally used for smaller quantities!

You will need a separate sparge water heater with an all in one and a fermenter Unless you do full volume mashing. I have a water heater which is also my boiler, a separate mash tun and plastic fermenters.

 

[Rodcx500z]

I have one of these, i love it and Angel HB is a very good company to deal with Robobrew / Brewzilla 35L v3.1.1 All-in-one Microbrewery

 

[Begbie]

If I had the cash at the time of buying an 'all in one', I'd have gone down the route of a Brewzilla, but I noticed a post on here for a 'grade B' Klarstein Maischfest on a site called HiFi Tower. I checked it out and bought one for £125 (if I remember correctly).

The Maischfest is basically a Brewzilla without the recirculation pump. I get around that by draining wort from the tap into a 2L jug and pouring it back into the grain bed every 10 minutes during the mash. You could also buy a pump and add it to the set up. It still works out cheaper than buying a Brewzilla.

If cash isn't a problem though, I'd go for the Brewzilla. I might upgrade at some point too, and keep my Klarstein as a sparge water heater.

Good luck in your search. You are about to embark on an amazing journey! Keep us updated.

 

[jof]

And remember it's not about how expensive or shiny your kit is, it's about how your beer tastes

For the record I do a hybrid biab mash in my klarstein fullhorn, with sparge from the kitchen kettle into the FV, then transfer back to the klarstein for the boil.

 

[Brewelder]

If I had the cash at the time of buying an 'all in one', I'd have gone down the route of a Brewzilla, but I noticed a post on here for a 'grade B' Klarstein Maischfest on a site called HiFi Tower. I checked it out and bought one for £125 (if I remember correctly).

The Maischfest is basically a Brewzilla without the recirculation pump. I get around that by draining wort from the tap into a 2L jug and pouring it back into the grain bed every 10 minutes during the mash. You could also buy a pump and add it to the set up. It still works out cheaper than buying a Brewzilla.

If cash isn't a problem though, I'd go for the Brewzilla. I might upgrade at some point too, and keep my Klarstein as a sparge water heater.

Good luck in your search. You are about to embark on an amazing journey! Keep us updated.

Thanks to everyone for the sound advice. Basically, as i mentioned i’ve gone down the canned malt route so far, with some very good and tasty results by the way. But, i feel it’s time to take my brewing to the next level and start getting creative although i didn’t want to rush out and buy equipment that i may not even need.

The “all in one” systems sound good and not that expensive so i’ll be searching for something like that i think. For me, basic and simple is best so don’t want to complicate things any more than i have to.

 

[Begbie]

Thanks to everyone for the sound advice. Basically, as i mentioned i’ve gone down the canned malt route so far, with some very good and tasty results by the way. But, i feel it’s time to take my brewing to the next level and start getting creative although i didn’t want to rush out and buy equipment that i may not even need.

The “all in one” systems sound good and not that expensive so i’ll be searching for something like that i think. For me, basic and simple is best so don’t want to complicate things any more than i have to.

Being a mechanical engineer, keeping it simple and getting good results is what I want!

My All Grain journey began with BIAB using an 11L stockpot purchased from Dunelm. I think I did about 4 or 5 brews before I realised that the amount of time invested wasn't really worth the return (even though the return was great quality!), hence why I moved to an All In One system. I was only getting about 8 or 9 bottles per brew.

I was more than happy with the beers I was brewing which gave me the desire to move 'up'. I also needed a system that would move my brewing outdoors as brewing in the kitchen was stinking the whole house out!

 

[Dutto]

…… But, i feel it’s time to take my brewing to the next level and start getting creative although i didn’t want to rush out and buy equipment that i may not even need.

…..

Before taking the plunge to spend real money, please check out this Thread:

Kit Tweaking. How to customise and improve upon a basic kit​

It’s from 2017!

Enjoy!
:hat:


PS

Try this for starters:

https://uk.diybeer.com/brewing-info/recipes

 

[Brewelder]

And remember it's not about how expensive or shiny your kit is, it's about how your beer tastes

For the record I do a hybrid biab mash in my klarstein fullhorn, with sparge from the kitchen kettle into the FV, then transfer back to the klarstein for the boil.

Sounds like a plan, so much so that i’ve gone and bought this model on a well known auction site, although i’m yet to recieve it as i’m currently on vacation.
However, any hints, tips, tricks etc will be greatly appreciated as i’m totally new to this kind of brewing. I’m sure mistakes will be made and i’m sure i’ll have fun along the way, but any help you can give would be greatly accepted.

 

[jof]

I try to get volume a couple of litres under the maximum line.

When heating wort to start the boil set temperature to 98 degrees, cover & leave to get up to temperature.

Now to start boil you will need your stirring stick.
Remove lid, Whack temperature up to full & watch it, as when it starts to boil it will foam up & you will need to stir constantly so the foam doesn't boil over the side.
Also remember once boiling point reached you can switch off one of the heater elements.
(Use big element for a vigorous open boil or small one for a partially covered simmer)

 

[Brewelder]

I try to get volume a couple of litres under the maximum line.

When heating wort to start the boil set temperature to 98 degrees, cover & leave to get up to temperature.

Now to start boil you will need your stirring stick.
Remove lid, Whack temperature up to full & watch it, as when it starts to boil it will foam up & you will need to stir constantly so the foam doesn't boil over the side.
Also remember once boiling point reached you can switch off one of the heater elements.
(Use big element for a vigorous open boil or small one for a partially covered simmer)

Many thanks for that. I’m assuming this is BIAB? I think this is the way i want to go for my first couple or few brews, just to get used to the equipment and processes etc.

How do you Sparge? By draining off from the bottom and pouring back in? Or with totally fresh water?

I see mine has a hole in the lid, i’m assuming this is for maybe adding recirculation? Can this be done?

Sorry for all the questions.

 

[Agentgonzo]

For brew in a bag, or full volume mashing, you don't sparge at all. You just mash, then drain off the wort (or lift the bag out) and then proceed to the boil.

For processes that included a sparge step, you will sparge with fresh (heated) water. It allows you to collect extra sugars (and flavours) from the grainbed that weren't dissolved in the original mash liquid.

 

[Goldthirst]

When I used a grain bag when I first started all grain brewing back in the 80's, I had the bag suspended over the boiler with a 22mm piece of copper pipe strung between the back of a chair and the kitchen unit. I did sparge with a plastic watering can (only used for this purpose) that held the hot water at the appropriate temperature. It was a Heath Robinson affair but I had some good beers from that set up.

 

[Nottsbeer]

I started out doing BIAB with a dunk-sparge method....mashed in the boiler, removed liquid & bag, heated up volume of sparge water and then dunked the grain for 10 mins. Think my efficiency was around 75%. Someone on here suggested just full volume mashing (the Brewfather app I use tells me the volume I need). Saves alot of time and my efficiency is around 70%. I'm very happy with the process I now use and the beer is excellent

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

I reckon that if I did the sums, the amount of money I spent on the boiler and mash tun etc. is pretty small compared to the other stuff - cornies in particular. So I wouldn't worry about spending a few more quid in order to get something durable and easy to use (and clean).
For what it's worth, I'd say the biggest overall influence on beer quality is being able to control your fermentation and conditioning temperatures.

 

[CaptAwol]

I had a 3 vessel system year's ago, cleaning after a brew day was a pain and I had lot's of failed brew's although back then we didn't have things like 'star san'
When I started back about 5 year's ago or so I went straight in with a Grainfather 30L, compared to my old system it's so easy, after the GF and happy with the recipe's I've made I acquired a Brew Devil 45L and with the pump used the GF as a glorified sparge water heater, it was also a backup should any problem occur on a brew day. After selling the GF I purchased a Brew Monk 70L so now the BD is the sparge water heater.
Anything for cheap beer I like and an easy life

 

[jof]

I use a hybrid.
Grain is mashed in a bag in my boiler using about 2/3 liquid.

Then I drain into FV and sparge (grain in bag) with water from the kitchen kettle.
Fill 2/3 & boil, then top up with cold to get to approx temperature.
I also recirculate using a jug while waiting for the next kettle full to boil

 

[Mayor of Simpleton]

I have a propane heated 3V system and a Brewzilla. My thoughts in no particular order are.

-The Brewzilla is quicker to set up and to clean which shortens the brewday.
-The 3V system takes up more space but you could start with 2V and use the same vessel as your HLT and kettle. I did this for many years. Then there isn't much difference in space needed.
-I prefer the 3V system brewday. I am not sure why this is. Possibly I feel more connected with the process? I certainly prefer the mash/batch sparge process in my 3V system although that is just a process preference as the quality of wort I get from both is comparable.


Bottom line is that both are tried and tested and you won't go far wrong whichever route you go down as long as you've dialled in your cleaning and sanitisation, spent time on honing your process and thought through your recipes.