Yeast isn't reacting quite right

[johncrobinson]

You can use a water bath,I have done so a few times

Most of the concern around heaters stems from having a heater in the ferment.
i use mats and fish-tank heaters with equal aplomb.
this time of year a heater is likely to prove usefull

 

[johncrobinson]

Just a thought perhaps your fermentation is to cold.!!!!!!!!!

 

[ExcessPixels]

The principle behind using an immersion heater (alias fish tank heater) in a water bath is that you are using indirect heat to maintain the wort /beer temperature through the FV wall, rather than direct heating which arguably 'cooks' the beer and yeast through the small surface area and hot surfaces involved

Okay, smashing stuff, I think this looks like a great investment instead of paying £30-£40 on an immersion heater.
Where would you recommend me storing the FV when in the water bath, as my current place for the FV in this thread is the airing cupboard, I don't know if that would be a good idea haha. Would a conservatory space be okay, even with sub zero air temps. in the UK winter?

 

[ExcessPixels]

Just a thought perhaps your fermentation is to cold.!!!!!!!!!

I did think this, the water temperature was low at the beginning, I have been making do with putting it in the airing cupboard wrapped up by the boiler, upon checking temps it is looking at 19*-21*C at the moment, I think that is okay.

I've also seen mats being used and I've heard they're good for secondaryfermentations in bottles too

 

[terrym]

I did think this, the water temperature was low at the beginning, I have been making do with putting it in the airing cupboard wrapped up by the boiler, upon checking temps it is looking at 19*-21*C at the moment, I think that is okay.

I've also seen mats being used and I've heard they're good for secondaryfermentations in bottles too

I thought that we had resolved very early on in this thread that the fermenting temperature you have for your current brew at north of 18*C is fine. No need to change it.
As far as the water bath please read the link I provided. I keep my water bath in an unheated garage and a 50w heater is fine even when its freezing outside provided its insulated well. If you keep your FV in a freezing shed that might require a larger heater. That's covered in the link.

 

[buddsy]

Do you have a hydrometer? Did you take a reading to start?

Even if not might be worth taking a reading if you can.

buddsy

 

[ExcessPixels]

I thought that we had resolved very early on in this thread that the fermenting temperature you have for your current brew at north of 18*C is fine. No need to change it.
As far as the water bath please read the link I provided. I keep my water bath in an unheated garage and a 50w heater is fine even when its freezing outside provided its insulated well. If you keep your FV in a freezing shed that might require a larger heater. That's covered in the link.

We did indeed, so that confirms all is well in the temperature department
I will be looking at the water bath method, thank you :)

 

[ExcessPixels]

Do you have a hydrometer? Did you take a reading to start?

Even if not might be worth taking a reading if you can.

buddsy

I haven't, no, this was a kit so I did not get one with it, I didn't think I'd get so invested but here I am haha, I'm loving it :) I have one on order though, I'm hoping to see if it is close to the recommended reading from the kit.

 

[johncrobinson]

Brewing/winemaking is infectious

Two essential tools are a thermometer and hydrometer.

i like to keep my fermentation's on the right side of 20c day and night.

i know some advocate cooler temps but not for me i am afraid

 

[ExcessPixels]

Brewing/winemaking is infectious

Two essential tools are a thermometer and hydrometer.

i like to keep my fermentation's on the right side of 20c day and night.

i know some advocate cooler temps but not for me i am afraid

I was worried about going sub 20*C so I'm with you on that one.
I think that this starter kit has taught me a lot, next pay day I shall start a larger project with better equipment and more knowledge

 

[ExcessPixels]

We have micro bubbles!!

I don't want to get ahead of myself but there are micro bubbles around the top (no krausen but something)!

 

[Arcs]

Is the lid on the fv forming a tight seal could be co2 is bypassing the airlock, happened to me when i first started brewing

How do you expect to keep a lid on an FV when using 1kg of Gervin yeast? I know what you are upto, Sellafield best be worried about that gervin yeast attack ;p

 

[Radchenister]

Interesting thread, I am a relative newb but am on my third successful brew and this subject was something I pondered a lot over the last few months.

I became obsessed with the fermentation activity early on with my first brew (cider from our apple trees), as it was a seat of the pants experiment.

I was at the point of nudging it along with Wilko's yeast nutrient when it appeared to slow up within the first week of the experience.

I am not sure if our water here affects the process, this is something I'd be interested in learning more about, but it's an issue niggling me, as we have hard water.

My Woodfordes Wherry went well but I did pop a teaspoon of yeast nutrient in that just over half way through the fermentation period, it looked like it was stalling but picked up well again after that.

On my 3rd Tiny Rebel 'Cwtch' brew I began wrapping a jacket around the fermentation bucket if it looked like it was dropping below 20 degrees in the room on colder days. I also nudged that one along with nutrient in the same way as the Wherry, meaning it seemed to reach it's brewed gravity a day or so earlier than on the instructions.

I also now have stick on thermometers for my fermentation vessels and I bought 2 further thermometers off eBay so I can track inside and outside temps.

We have underfloor heating via a ground source heat pump, which creates fairly even and stable environmental conditions, my son's room is vacant at present, as he's off at uni, so it's perfect for brewing.

It holds an almost constant 19 to 20 degrees, so the brew temp hangs between 21 and 22 degrees. Circa 2 degrees above the room temp.

Good luck with this, keep us posted.

 

[terrym]

Interesting thread, I am a relative newb but am on my third successful brew and this subject was something I have pondered a lot over the last few months.

I became obsessed with the fermentation activity early on with my first brew (of cider from our apple trees), as it was a seat of the pants experiment. I was at the point of nudging it along with Wilkos yeast nutrient when it appeared to slow up within the first week of the experience.

I am not sure if our water here affects the process, this is something I'd be interested in learning more about, but it's an issue niggling me, as we have hard water.

My Woodfordes Wherry went well but I did pop a teaspoon of yeast nutrient in that just over half way through the fermentation period, it looked like it was stalling but picked up well after that.

On my 3rd 'Cwtch' brew I began wrapping a jacket around the fermentation bucket if it looked like it was dropping below 20 degrees in the room on colder days. I also nudged that one along with nutrient in the same way as the Wherry, meaning it seemed to reach it's brewed gravity a couple of days earlier than on the instructions.

I also now have stick on thermometers for my fermentation vessels and I bought 2 further thermometers off eBay so I can track inside and outside temps.

We have underfloor heating via a ground source heat pump, which creates fairly even and stable environmental conditions, my son's room is vacant at present, as he's off at uni, so it's perfect for brewing. It holds an almost constant 19 to 20 degrees, so the brew temp hangs between 21 and 22 degrees. Circa 2 degrees above the room temp.

Good luck with this, keep us posted.

I am surprised you are finding the need to using yeast nutrient in your beers. You shouldn't really need it as there should be more than enough in the wort to promote healthy yeast growth and sustain the fermentation. I used to use it but stopped and noticed no difference whatsoever. However if you were making a country wine that would be completely different. And don't rely on instructions for accurate timings they are usually over optimistic. The measure I usually use is its ready when its ready, and I would rather leave it longer in the FV than push to get it finished and bottle early. What's two or three days in the overall wort to drinking cycle?

 

[Radchenister]

I am surprised you are finding the need to using yeast nutrient in your beers. You shouldn't really need it as there should be more than enough in the wort to promote healthy yeast growth and sustain the fermentation. I used to use it but stopped and noticed no difference whatsoever. However if you were making a country wine that would be completely different. And don't rely on instructions for accurate timings they are usually over optimistic. The measure I usually use is its ready when its ready, and I would rather leave it longer in the FV than push to get it finished and bottle early. What's two or three days in the overall wort to drinking cycle?

Fair point, I believe the cider needed it, but I am not sure the beers did, although they both did appear to slow right up to the point of no airlock activity around the 3/4 brewed gravity mark, but both picked up and started gurgling through the airlock again after a single teaspoon of the nutrient was added.

 

[An Ankoù]

Two essential tools are a thermometer and hydrometer.

... and a pint mug, without which all this is in vain.

 

[An Ankoù]

I like An Ankou`s comments and opinions.Hes a good sort.

Back on subject the fact it smells ok is a very positive sign.Keep the lid on and the co2 in.

You might have to put this one down to experience,in future use a good starter and keep the temperature stable throughout.
In the past i have found STABLE temp control just about THE most important thing.

Flattery will get you nowhere, It's still your round.

 

[ExcessPixels]

... and a pint mug, without which all this is in vain.

Hear Hear!

 

[ExcessPixels]

Interesting thread, I am a relative newb but am on my third successful brew and this subject was something I pondered a lot over the last few months.

I became obsessed with the fermentation activity early on with my first brew (cider from our apple trees), as it was a seat of the pants experiment.

I was at the point of nudging it along with Wilko's yeast nutrient when it appeared to slow up within the first week of the experience.

I am not sure if our water here affects the process, this is something I'd be interested in learning more about, but it's an issue niggling me, as we have hard water.

My Woodfordes Wherry went well but I did pop a teaspoon of yeast nutrient in that just over half way through the fermentation period, it looked like it was stalling but picked up well again after that.

On my 3rd Tiny Rebel 'Cwtch' brew I began wrapping a jacket around the fermentation bucket if it looked like it was dropping below 20 degrees in the room on colder days. I also nudged that one along with nutrient in the same way as the Wherry, meaning it seemed to reach it's brewed gravity a day or so earlier than on the instructions.

I also now have stick on thermometers for my fermentation vessels and I bought 2 further thermometers off eBay so I can track inside and outside temps.

We have underfloor heating via a ground source heat pump, which creates fairly even and stable environmental conditions, my son's room is vacant at present, as he's off at uni, so it's perfect for brewing.

It holds an almost constant 19 to 20 degrees, so the brew temp hangs between 21 and 22 degrees. Circa 2 degrees above the room temp.

Good luck with this, keep us posted.

Interesting to hear that you also became obsessed with the fermentation process, I think it gets a point where it's wise to leave it alone, set a rough date on the calendar to check in on it and go from there. It add's unnecessary stress sticking to these times giving in the recipes, I think I've found that out pretty quick haha.
I'll definitely keep updating the thread following what (if any) final product I get!

 

[terrym]

Fair point, I believe the cider needed it, but I am not sure the beers did, although they both did appear to slow right up to the point of no airlock activity around the 3/4 brewed gravity mark, but both picked up and started gurgling through the airlock again after a single teaspoon of the nutrient was added.

It may well be that either your lid wasnt initially seated properly, and then replacing it got a better seal which stopped you airlock being bypassed. I have had that happen. Don't rely on your airlock being the usual comment. And/or mixing in the nutrient may have roused the yeast which is often a tactic used to keep things going. But if you didnt mix it in, the nutrient crystals provide sites for CO2 bubbles to form and bubble out of solution and give the illusion of things picking up. However if you believe yeast nutrient is needed so be it. We all have our preferences.