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Interesting. Another recipe that's in Dave Line's book. It's an all grain recipe, so a bit more complex than Old Peculier.

The interesting thing is that the recipe includes 25g Northern Brewer hops, 100g Goldings and then 15g more at the end of the boil plus 10g dry hopping. Also has flaked maize as an adjunct. Will post the full recipe here later if you're interested.
>Will post the full recipe here later if you're interested.
Yes, please.
 
>Will post the full recipe here later if you're interested.
Yes, please.
OK, so like all Dave Line's recipes, he has a primary and secondary. OG 1049, FG (before secondary) 1012. 25L. All grains are crushed. 15L strike water (your requirement may differ - don't feel tied down to this)

3.8Kg Pale malt
100g Crystal malt
60g Roast malt
250g Flaked maize
400g Soft brown sugar (plus another 60g for bottle conditioning)
25g Northern brewer
100g + 15g + 10g Goldings
(he also specifies gelatine finings for secondary)

Strike water temp 60°, stir in grains and raise to 66° stirring all the time.
Keep at 66° for 90 minutes
Sparge to 20L (again, whatever suits you best as he adds cold water after the boil to bring up to 25L)
Boil for 90 minutes with the Northern brewer and first batch of Goldings. Dissolve the sugar and add during the boil. (he advocates dissolving in water, but I would just use some of the wort).
After the boil, switch off heat and add second batch of Goldings. Leave for 15 minutes.
[If you're using Whirfloc or Irish Moss, add this at 80 minutes, also any yeast nutrient you might use]
When the temperature is low enough, (top up to 25L with cold water here if needed = assuming OG is on target) pitch your yeast
His method is after 4 or 5 days (primary in fermenting bin) to then move to secondary fermentation (adding the 10g Goldings dry hops and gelatine finings) under airlock when SG hits 1012 and then leave for a week before bottling/kegging
 
OK, so like all Dave Line's recipes, he has a primary and secondary. OG 1049, FG (before secondary) 1012. 25L. All grains are crushed. 15L strike water (your requirement may differ - don't feel tied down to this)

3.8Kg Pale malt
100g Crystal malt
60g Roast malt
250g Flaked maize
400g Soft brown sugar (plus another 60g for bottle conditioning)
25g Northern brewer
100g + 15g + 10g Goldings
(he also specifies gelatine finings for secondary)

Strike water temp 60°, stir in grains and raise to 66° stirring all the time.
Keep at 66° for 90 minutes
Sparge to 20L (again, whatever suits you best as he adds cold water after the boil to bring up to 25L)
Boil for 90 minutes with the Northern brewer and first batch of Goldings. Dissolve the sugar and add during the boil. (he advocates dissolving in water, but I would just use some of the wort).
After the boil, switch off heat and add second batch of Goldings. Leave for 15 minutes.
[If you're using Whirfloc or Irish Moss, add this at 80 minutes, also any yeast nutrient you might use]
When the temperature is low enough, (top up to 25L with cold water here if needed = assuming OG is on target) pitch your yeast
His method is after 4 or 5 days (primary in fermenting bin) to then move to secondary fermentation (adding the 10g Goldings dry hops and gelatine finings) under airlock when SG hits 1012 and then leave for a week before bottling/kegging
Again, thanks so much, Larse.
 
Again, thanks so much, Larse.
No problem.

It might be worth your while to get Dave Line's book 'Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy". He has a lot of ales and bitters in it, and helpfully, there's a lot off them that you can still buy, so it's easy to test against them. Also a section on world beers, so plenty to keep you going with a variety of styles.

I've looked around for recipes for the ones you mention: Cobra, Chang and Kingfisher, but the only ones I can find are from Americans who seem to eschew simplicity and almost always miss the mark when designing clones.

Edit: Just checked that link to the book on Amazon and there's only one left. Less than eight quid.
 
You could probably make a lager or a light ale but you'd probably have to experiment with the IBUs. Maybe start with 10 or 12 and work up or down depending on how it feels.
Looking at the examples given for beers liked and disliked, I'd concur with this, and would adjust recipe to have IBUs low than 25. And use a yeast that doesn't ferment to dry so there's a balance of residual sweetness.
 

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