interesting sparge blog, I fall into first camp because I never felt the need to
Oops, sorry. Thinking about bitter easily leads my mind to Harvey's Sussex Best.Suffolk rather than Sussex
I think @Galena has posted an article explaining the reasoning? Don't know 'cos I haven't read that article yet. But there is concern that sparging water above pH6.0 can leach undesirable substances (like tannins) from the spent grain being sparged. So, to ensure that doesn't happen, the "alkalinity" of the sparge water is reduced. pH4.5 will see the "Alkalinity" removed (pH4.3 to be unnecessarily precise) but pH5.5 is generally considered to be enough (i.e. about the same as the mash being sparged).Is Sparge water ph important. I know mash is for the mash conversion? Genuinely curious.
So do I! Or at least I find using well mineralised mash waters negates any need to acidify the mash water. But if I was to fit a large red button to your table that holds back the chatter of dozens of incensed forum users who don't want to use well mineralised mash water (for reasons I don't understand either) ... would you press the button?.. .Personally I add salts but not acids
After reading that linked article I have decided to try some Lactic Acid in the sparge of my next brew, it only takes 1ml (for me) to take it down to 5.5 including minerals. I'm not convinced it is at all necessary but if it's good enough for Brad Smith..........So do I!
So you treat your total water with salts and acid if necessary all in one tank? What if you don't have the capacity for that though?That's how I do it, treat my water to make liquor for mashing and sparging.
Not something that I've had to think about. I guess that may be why I only see homebrewers having two seperate treatments, an opportunity presented by lack of capacity.So you treat your total water with salts and acid if necessary all in one tank? What if you don't have the capacity for that though?
I'm sure that would be the case in commercial premises ("all in one tank"), but many homebrewers have the option to treat "mash" and "sparge" water differently ... so, they do! Makes sense not to use untreated high alkalinity tap water for sparging, or to add acid to water that's had "alkalinity" salts added to it (i.e. don't add the "alkalinity" salts in the first place!). Doesn't really make any difference to our "soft" low "TDS" tap water (and therefore low-buffered, or low alkalinity), but I still do it (adding less than 1ml acid to 60L sparge water). So, I'm daft, but I already know that.So you treat your total water with salts and acid if necessary all in one tank? What if you don't have the capacity for that though?
I don't doubt it, I was questioning whether Sadfield had the capacity to do, and indeed does do that.I'm sure that would be the case in commercial premises ("all in one tank")
I can do better than that! I've been mentioning it earlier in the thread, and even included a "conversion factor" earlier in the thread, although some calculators can handle it as-is:... perhaps if I could find a source in powder form instead of 'chunks' would help
Absolutely. Being a commercial process does not make it "best practise" far from it. It just makes it commercial.. for commercial reasons.. which I doubt are anything like that of a homebrewer.I'm sure that would be the case in commercial premises ("all in one tank"), but many homebrewers have the option to treat "mash" and "sparge" water differently ...
Well that is very true, but in this case I cannot see the difference. If you are going to treat both mash and sparge water then I see no disadvantage in treating all in one tank?Absolutely. Being a commercial process does not make it "best practise" far from it. It just makes it commercial.. for commercial reasons.. which I doubt are anything like that of a homebrewer.
I can do better than that! I've been mentioning it earlier in the thread, and even included a "conversion factor" earlier in the thread, although some calculators can handle it as-is:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Calcium-Chloride-Solution-Cheese-Making/dp/B08N6PW33L
33% solution, SG 1.330. Unlike solid stuff, it is what it says: Little problem with hygroscopic tendencies, it's already liquid (in a screw top bottle)!
Being homebrew doesn't make it best practice either.Absolutely. Being a commercial process does not make it "best practise" far from it. It just makes it commercial.. for commercial reasons.. which I doubt are anything like that of a homebrewer.
You don't weight it, you measure it (in a measuring cylinder or the like). Many water calculators do it for you (if it knows the concentration or SG - that's why I repeated that info above). That screenshot of Bru'n Water is telling you, but a bit of sloppy programming means it still says "grams") ... i.e. it says 5.52 ... millilitres.How would this be dosed compared with the granules? So if a brewing calculator suggests adding 3g say?
Many water calculators do it for you
It's a good job they use "%". If they had used "SG" you'd need special hydrometers to read in the 1.300 range ... or else enter my world of "pyknometers" ... (Oh no, he's mentioned that word again! ... Save us! ... run! ... )Thanks, I checked Brewfather and it can be selected in the settings for liquid at 33%
Enter your email address to join: