Possible stuck fermentation.... again

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Hi, thanks, and yes, following terrym's advice.
Also I'll get a couple of the yeasts you suggested.

Paul
 
Well to be honest no.
The yeast sachet say's 15 - 20c and the instructions say 18- 20c.
But I thought that 20 - 25c was best for fermenting? so went with 24c.
I did read somewhere that if you have trouble with stuck fermentation up the temp a bit nearer to 25c, is this not
always the case and are you going to tell me to 'FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS'.
But I thought it was gospel that anything less than 20c fermentation will slow or stop.
Paul

What you thought is perhaps a case of "doing the right things in the wrong order". Ferment an English yeast at 18-20C. If, for some reason, it attenuates poorly, then increasing the temps as a last resort might work, after rousing the yeast and mere patience have failed.
 
Can honestly say that in all my years of brewing (well, 8) I've never heard of Harris yeast. For future brews that would be the first thing I'd change, for a more known / reliable yeast - Wilko Gervin is a good, cheap one.
 
Can honestly say that in all my years of brewing (well, 8) I've never heard of Harris yeast. For future brews that would be the first thing I'd change, for a more known / reliable yeast - Wilko Gervin is a good, cheap one.
I used a Harris ale yeast once and it stuck at 1.020 according to my notes.
 
Sounds like the yeast is dropping out of suspension which is probably nothing to be concerned about. I’ve made beers using Safale S-04 yeast for example that reaches final gravity at 1014 so I don’t think yours has prematurely ended or possibly not even stuck at all. Rousing and raising the temperature might perk up the process and drop a few points but it doesn’t sound like you have a problem, more like the characteristics of the yeast. Which as others have said, I’ve never heard of either. As an alternative Lallemand Nottingham is a superb yeast and very forgiving as it’s happy fermentation range is 10c - 22c which means you can put it almost anywhere and it will ferment. Others have suggested fermenting at 18c perhaps raising to 20c for the last few days to give a little boost. That’s what I tend to do, I ferment for 14 days, 12 at 18c and 2 at 20c and don’t even bother checking final gravity. I do check for airlock activity which is quite volatile for the first week, at 14 days there’s almost no activity so I go ahead and bottle/keg.
 
Mornin'

Just thought I would give those people who have been so helpful an update.
Having pitched in a second packet of 'Harris' yeast yesterday afternoon (Harris yeast doesn't seem the best liked but was
all I had at short notice) the brew appears to be fermenting, bubbles are rising but no foaming on top. But then again it
only had a starting gravity of 1.019 after adding a further 100g of dissolved brewing sugar. It previously stuck at 1.016.
Set the heating pad under the bucket to come on for 2 hours in the middle of the night.
However, the temp was on 20C at 6 am, top of my new limit, it's now dropped back to between 18-19C.
Trying to keep the temp stable all night is a dark art to me. It can get quite cold in my hallway at night, but don't think it got as cold outside as was forecast.

I must be over thinking my brewing, I remember in the late 1970's making the likes of Tom Caxton & John Bull
also Sarah's bitter, bung it in a sterilised bucket no heating pads or the like, bottling it waiting a bit then knocking it back,
too much too often (much to my parent's disgust).

Paul
 
Mornin'

Just thought I would give those people who have been so helpful an update.
Having pitched in a second packet of 'Harris' yeast yesterday afternoon (Harris yeast doesn't seem the best liked but was
all I had at short notice) the brew appears to be fermenting, bubbles are rising but no foaming on top. But then again it
only had a starting gravity of 1.019 after adding a further 100g of dissolved brewing sugar. It previously stuck at 1.016.
Set the heating pad under the bucket to come on for 2 hours in the middle of the night.
However, the temp was on 20C at 6 am, top of my new limit, it's now dropped back to between 18-19C.
Trying to keep the temp stable all night is a dark art to me. It can get quite cold in my hallway at night, but don't think it got as cold outside as was forecast.

I must be over thinking my brewing, I remember in the late 1970's making the likes of Tom Caxton & John Bull
also Sarah's bitter, bung it in a sterilised bucket no heating pads or the like, bottling it waiting a bit then knocking it back,
too much too often (much to my parent's disgust).

Paul
Hi Paul,
Fermentation generates it's own heat, proportional to the level of fermentation, to be sure. But while it's warm, wrap the FV up in an old sleeping bag or some towels and that'll stop the temperature fluctuating so much.
 
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Yes, I could wrap the wife's bath towel around the FV, quite big and thick
(the towel not the wife).

Paul
 
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Hi all, me again.
So, after all the problems I had with the stalling fermentation and having added an extra packet of yeast over a week ago I now have another question, the hydrometer is now down to 1007 at 20c and it is still bubbling away with some vigour.
I know it's got the 2 packets of yeast in there but surely at that gravity it should be slowing right down now I mean where is it still finding fermentable sugars. I have never had a brew where the FG has gone below 1007.
Is it OK? and what's the lowest a FG can get to? Bearing in mind this is a fairly strong bitter kit.

All answers and comments gratefully received.

Paul.
 
I don't see 1.007 as an issue for a kit beer, given long enough.
 
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