Order of Events: Counterflow chilling, whirlpooling, transferring

[tondy79]

Hi all,

I'm trying to get my head around the order of events for best results/clarity...

My understanding is that:

- whirlpooling is effective in getting unwanted matter to the center of the kettle/all-in-one to avoid bringing it across to the fermenter
- chilling quickly allows the cold break to form, which would ideally also be left in the kettle
- when using a counterflow chiller, the wort can be passed almost directly from kettle to fermenter, but that cold break will occur as this transfer happens (and so the cold break would go into the fermenter)

So on this basis, is the correct order:

- Counterflow back into the kettle for a "full pass" (not sure how i would know this is complete?) so that the cold break goes into the kettle
- Pause the chilling, whirlpool, and allow the wort to rest
- Restart the counterflow chiller, and pump straight across to the fermenter hopefully leaving the unwanted elements behind

I feel like I'm making this more complicated than it needs to be!

Thanks!

 

[Meaulnes]

In my modest opinion, "Cold break" happens long after the fermentation is over (after about twice the fermentation time) and consists in bringing the beer temperature close to 4 °C. Some argue that the decrease in temperature should not exceed 1 °C a day but other think there is no need to worry.
The correct order would be

1. Sanitize the counterflow cooler by circulating hot wort during 5 min without cold water
2. Optionally practice whirlpool
3. With cold water counter flowing, circulate the wort back to the boiler to reach the hopstand temperature if you need one
4. After HS adjust flow of water and flow of wort to reach the target temperature (wort returning to the boiler)
5. When achieved, return the cold wort to the fermentation vessel.
6. Fermentation
7. Cold Break
8. Bottling

 

[tondy79]

I think what I'm struggling with is stage 3 and 4 (recirculation of wort) undoing any benefits of the whirlpool at stage 2 by disturbing the wort and kicking the trub back up?

 

[Agentgonzo]

In my modest opinion, "Cold break" happens long after the fermentation is over (after about twice the fermentation time) and consists in bringing the beer temperature close to 4 °C

I think what you're describing is what most people call "chill haze"

 

[Bzee]

My order of events is after the boil I give the wort in my kettle a circular stir, trub settles into centre, wort is then drained into an old milk churn which then gets put in a large plastic bucket of cold water.

 

[MashBag]

I feel like I'm making this more complicated than it needs to be!

I really don't think the order matters for clarity. You are looking to get rid of the bulk of the trub. Some will get through to fermentation and that's fine (for the record I think it's a beneficial nutrient).

Fining matters. And the flocculation ability of the yeast matters.

 

[Buffers brewery]

I use an immersion chiller and circulate the boiled wort while chilling to get to pitching temperature. Remove chiller and stir to get a whirlpool. Then leave for at least an hour, preferably two before transferring to fermentation bucket. Most trub is left behind in the kettle but always get some carry over to the FB. It drops out after cold crashing when fermentation is finished.

 

[Meaulnes]

I think what you're describing is what most people call "chill haze"

Yes, you are right. I made a confusion. What I am speaking of is cold crash that is also good for clarification of the beer.

 

[tondy79]

Thanks all, I'll see how things go this weekend!

 

[hoppyscotty]

I think what I'm struggling with is stage 3 and 4 (recirculation of wort) undoing any benefits of the whirlpool at stage 2 by disturbing the wort and kicking the trub back up?

In theory the whirlpool is to help minimise the chances of your false bottom blocking by gathering up the hops into a nice cone in the middle of the false bottom ideally leaving an area around the rim an inch or two wide of the false bottom uncovered to allow wort to come through. With my Brewzilla if the hops are not gathered into a cone or if it is a heavily hopped hopstand then the hops will cover the whole false bottom and I do get more hop matter coming through the false bottom perforations and from around the gaps around the edge and into the fermenter, but the whirlpool definitely does minimise this.

When returning cooled wort back into the kettle after the CF chiller it is not exactly flowing out particularly powerfully so by angling the hose a bit you're not going to churn up the wort sufficiently enough to disrupt your hop cone so I wouldn't fret about it too much.

 

[tondy79]

Perfect, thanks @hoppyscotty !