Fermzilla All Rounder Question

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nhenson22

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I recently got the 30L version of the all rounder and am about to give my first brew a go which will be a NEIPA.
I have struggled with this style before as I believe with the amount of dry hopping I have always introduced some oxygen that the beer could have done without.

My issue - The All Rounder, with disconnect (the new duotight slim type) does not fit in my fermentation fridge. However, it will fit without the disconnect fitted to the gas post, but this means I have no spunding valve fitted.
My question - If I ferment at room temp (planning 15 PSI-ish) until fermentation is complete, then remove the disconnect (and spunding valve) and then cold crash, am I safe to do so? I know pressure should drop as I cold crash so I am not going to exceed the original PSI in the vessel, am I? Or, should I drop the pressure in the vessel before cold crash to be safe?

Thanks for any advice!

Cheers
 
I recently got the 30L version of the all rounder and am about to give my first brew a go which will be a NEIPA.
I have struggled with this style before as I believe with the amount of dry hopping I have always introduced some oxygen that the beer could have done without.

My issue - The All Rounder, with disconnect (the new duotight slim type) does not fit in my fermentation fridge. However, it will fit without the disconnect fitted to the gas post, but this means I have no spunding valve fitted.
My question - If I ferment at room temp (planning 15 PSI-ish) until fermentation is complete, then remove the disconnect (and spunding valve) and then cold crash, am I safe to do so? I know pressure should drop as I cold crash so I am not going to exceed the original PSI in the vessel, am I? Or, should I drop the pressure in the vessel before cold crash to be safe?

Thanks for any advice!

Cheers
By the slim type disconnect do you mean the newly released short ones that have the built in duotight fitting?
Also have you got the stand the way round that sits the all-rounder lower?
If the temperature is consistent and is in range for the yeast you are planning to use. you should be ok with your alternative plan
 
There was a post a while back where someone said that the pressure relief valve on the lid would let the build up of CO2 out if the pressure became excessive and they actually used it as a poor persons spunding valve. But that sounded a bit risky to me!

But you could release the pressure via the PRV a couple of times a day and as you say, pressure does drop at the end of the ferment, so it should be ok.
 
You maybe able to add this bulkhead fitting to the lid but just run the beer line out of the top and to the side with the spunding valve attached .might get you lower clearance until time to transfer.
https://brewkegtap.co.uk/products/5...TaEiT97cZAwQdMcgu7_TOZcoIcnmBMwhoC588QAvD_BwE

Yeah, using the new shorter disconnects with built in duotight.
Already have the stand inverted also.
That threaded bulkhead looks interesting though, cheers. Is 1/4" the right size for the Fermzilla, I am just trying to find that info online now (suppose I could measure it!!)
 
Might be talking out of my @rs here as I’m not a fermzilla user but I remember seeing a post here, I think from @foxy (apologies if it wasn’t) but you can get 15 psi pressure relief valves…..
8FF9482F-D3CC-410A-BFF8-3565F29C27D7.jpeg
 
Yeah, using the new shorter disconnects with built in duotight.
Already have the stand inverted also.
That threaded bulkhead looks interesting though, cheers. Is 1/4" the right size for the Fermzilla, I am just trying to find that info online now (suppose I could measure it!!)
I think you drill out a new hole on the lid..there are some extra circles if you want the thermowell kit.
 
I recently got the 30L version of the all rounder and am about to give my first brew a go which will be a NEIPA.
I have struggled with this style before as I believe with the amount of dry hopping I have always introduced some oxygen that the beer could have done without.

My issue - The All Rounder, with disconnect (the new duotight slim type) does not fit in my fermentation fridge. However, it will fit without the disconnect fitted to the gas post, but this means I have no spunding valve fitted.
My question - If I ferment at room temp (planning 15 PSI-ish) until fermentation is complete, then remove the disconnect (and spunding valve) and then cold crash, am I safe to do so? I know pressure should drop as I cold crash so I am not going to exceed the original PSI in the vessel, am I? Or, should I drop the pressure in the vessel before cold crash to be safe?

Thanks for any advice!

Cheers
Just use the 15 or 10 PSI PRV (see Buffers post) no need to put anything on the posts then. You could even put a weaker spring in the red PRV for the same outcome.
Or one of these.
 
Last edited:
I recently got the 30L version of the all rounder and am about to give my first brew a go which will be a NEIPA.
I have struggled with this style before as I believe with the amount of dry hopping I have always introduced some oxygen that the beer could have done without.

My issue - The All Rounder, with disconnect (the new duotight slim type) does not fit in my fermentation fridge. However, it will fit without the disconnect fitted to the gas post, but this means I have no spunding valve fitted.
My question - If I ferment at room temp (planning 15 PSI-ish) until fermentation is complete, then remove the disconnect (and spunding valve) and then cold crash, am I safe to do so? I know pressure should drop as I cold crash so I am not going to exceed the original PSI in the vessel, am I? Or, should I drop the pressure in the vessel before cold crash to be safe?

Thanks for any advice!

Cheers
I always remove my spunding valve during cold crash . Never had any problems.
Depending on the required fermentation temperature, I have finished fermentation as high as 25 PSI.
The pressure always reduces during cold crash as CO2 in the headspace is absorbed into the beer.
 
I tried the 10 and 15 psi release valve in my allrounder as I have a chubby not sure why but they didn't they leaked but don't in my Chubby .
I think that anyone with the Chinese PET fermenters would be well advise to use a lower rating PRV than those which comes standard with them. This is from a post in Norway yesterday. Blew up at lower pressure before the PRV could activate.
Save a lot of heartache.
1648279637884.png

1648279685801.png
 
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