Hop_it
Regular.
Just had a look at the barbed pipe fitting. I notice that they say it has a 1/2" NPT thread. Do you know if this is the same as a 1/2" BSP thread? Also, is the 3/8" dimension given for the barb the maximum diameter?
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- Thread starter Tess Tickle's Brewery
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Just had a look at the barbed pipe fitting. I notice that they say it has a 1/2" NPT thread. Do you know if this is the same as a 1/2" BSP thread? Also, is the 3/8" dimension given for the barb the maximum diameter?
1/2" NPT is not absolutely identical to 1/2" BSP but for all practical purposes they are interchangeable.. The outside diameter of the barb is a fraction under 10mm, so yes it is 3/8".
NPT is not the same as BSP (see NPT vs BSP Threads: What’s the Difference?) but as @dcbrookes rightly says, you may be able to screw them together so long as you don't over-tighten and don't mind a bit of leakage.
Also be careful about the difference between BSPT (tapered) and BSPP (parallel) - often when we just to refer to "BSP" we mean BSPP
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Hop_it
Regular.
Thank you both for the info - much appreciated. And yes, it is easy to forget that a lot of threaded plumbing fittings are available with tapered threads :hat:
On the basis that I might try to add some kind of additional filtration device to the pump inlet myself, I decided to measure the ID of the pump inlet hole in the bottom of my BZ 3.11. I couldn't get my Vernier calliper inside to take a direct measurement, so I tried a few large twist drills, but with no success - 9mm too small, and 10mm too big. I eventually found a 1/4" drive socket in my toolbox that was a comfortable fit in the hole. It measures 9.8mm, so the 3/8" (9.525mm) barb (with a suitable filtration device attached) should be a close enough fit to stay in place under its own weight without the need for any additional packing.
PS - The short article explaining the difference between BSP and NTP thread designs was very interesting too
I have just this minute ordered a helix from kegland on Ali express, the info on the inlet for the pump will help me a lot i am going to try it without the false bottom fitted so thanks for the infoThank you both for the info - much appreciated. And yes, it is easy to forget that a lot of threaded plumbing fittings are available with tapered threads :hat:
On the basis that I might try to add some kind of additional filtration device to the pump inlet myself, I decided to measure the ID of the pump inlet hole in the bottom of my BZ 3.11. I couldn't get my Vernier calliper inside to take a direct measurement, so I tried a few large twist drills, but with no success - 9mm too small, and 10mm too big. I eventually found a 1/4" drive socket in my toolbox that was a comfortable fit in the hole. It measures 9.8mm, so the 3/8" (9.525mm) barb (with a suitable filtration device attached) should be a close enough fit to stay in place under its own weight without the need for any additional packing.
PS - The short article explaining the difference between BSP and NTP thread designs was very interesting too
Hop_it
Regular.
I have just this minute ordered a helix from kegland on Ali express, the info on the inlet for the pump will help me a lot i am going to try it without the false bottom fitted so thanks for the info
You are most welcome
Hi guys hope your having a good day, this just turned up just as brew ended, question what else do I need to fit to the pump inlet
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07QK9HGST?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image&tag=forumyield-20
Did you get one of these Rod? I ended up with a 1/2 inch x 8mm one
Did you get one of these Rod? I ended up with a 1/2 inch x 8mm one
I think someone mentioned something about a right angled one.
Hi Lisa no didn't will order one now, going to brew saturday without the false bottom
Great! The 8mm is a bit loose but like TETB said a little bit of silicone hose over the end of it makes it a bit more secure.
done and dusted will be here tomorrow
I will post let you know how it goes and pics as well
Whoop whoop, thanks Rod. Going on holiday on Saturday so I'll look forward to that.
As posted previously, I have been experimenting with the coil spring hop filter from AliExpress. I discarded the supplied Tee piece immediately, as it is too bulky. It would be fine if attached to the boiler tap, but, like some others, I want to use the coil as a filter on the pump inlet on my Brew Monk (similar to Brew Devil, Klarstein etc.). If used vertically with a hose barb the Tee is far too high above the boiler bottom. If used flat with a right angled barb the Tee takes up too much space and intrudes on the part of the boiler base where the element is.
I first tried using a right angled barb attached to one end of the coil with a stop end on the other. This was difficult to manage in the boiler (think Slinky) and it restricted the pump flow, as well as being prone to airlocks in the pump inlet.
I then made up the adapter shown from a 1/2" BSP threaded SS full socket, drilled to take a short piece of 10mm SS tube, which is welded in place (no comments on my welding skills, please!). I also shortened the filter coil by about 10cm so that it fits neatly abound the edge of the boiler base (I reckoned that compressing the spring to fit in its original length would tend to close the space between the coils and reduce flow). The coil now sits flat on the base of the boiler along its whole length.
I used this for a brew yesterday without the usual false bottom in place. The boil used 45g of leaf hops and 30g of pellets, all of which were just added to the boiler (no hop spider or any other filter). After the boil the wort was whirlpooled for ten minutes and then pumped through my hop missile and plate chiller straight into the fermenter.
Some observations:
I still had some airlocks in the pump inlet - I may cut a couple of very thin slots in the top of the connector to see if this alleviates the problem. As it is, the pump does eventually pick up, but I am a bit worried about damaging it through cavitation or running too dry.
The flow was good, even through the hop missile, and there was no hint of blockages.
The wort was very clear
When cleaning up I found no trace of hop material in the plate chiller or the Brew Monk pump, which I always get using just the false bottom, even when using leaf hops alone.
So this seems to be working well, apart from the tendency for airlocks in the pump inlet. My next brew will be with pellet hops only. I will report how it goes.
I first tried using a right angled barb attached to one end of the coil with a stop end on the other. This was difficult to manage in the boiler (think Slinky) and it restricted the pump flow, as well as being prone to airlocks in the pump inlet.
I then made up the adapter shown from a 1/2" BSP threaded SS full socket, drilled to take a short piece of 10mm SS tube, which is welded in place (no comments on my welding skills, please!). I also shortened the filter coil by about 10cm so that it fits neatly abound the edge of the boiler base (I reckoned that compressing the spring to fit in its original length would tend to close the space between the coils and reduce flow). The coil now sits flat on the base of the boiler along its whole length.
I used this for a brew yesterday without the usual false bottom in place. The boil used 45g of leaf hops and 30g of pellets, all of which were just added to the boiler (no hop spider or any other filter). After the boil the wort was whirlpooled for ten minutes and then pumped through my hop missile and plate chiller straight into the fermenter.
Some observations:
I still had some airlocks in the pump inlet - I may cut a couple of very thin slots in the top of the connector to see if this alleviates the problem. As it is, the pump does eventually pick up, but I am a bit worried about damaging it through cavitation or running too dry.
The flow was good, even through the hop missile, and there was no hint of blockages.
The wort was very clear
When cleaning up I found no trace of hop material in the plate chiller or the Brew Monk pump, which I always get using just the false bottom, even when using leaf hops alone.
So this seems to be working well, apart from the tendency for airlocks in the pump inlet. My next brew will be with pellet hops only. I will report how it goes.
Nice job
For those without access to SS welding, I should think glueing the tube in place with epoxy resin (Araldite etc.) would work equally well.
Alternatively you could use a plastic fitting such as this, and solvent cement.
private4587
Member
Hi I thought I had sourced a right angled fitting 1/2”x8mm but when it turned up it was in brass. My fault for not reading the script properly. I have since ordered again making sure it was in SS. My question is there any problem using the brass one during the boil
If you can electrically insulate it from being in contact with your SS boiler then you should be OK - but otherwise I’d advise not because of the risk of getting a metallic flavour due to electrochemical corrosion.
private4587
Member
Thanks engineer that was my thoughts but was hoping someone would give me a valid reason why it would be okay to use. Will wait until SS one arrives
You could probably be OK if you bind up the threads with PTFE tape (plumbers tape) so the brass is insulated from the SS - it wouldn’t be a good long term solution but it would tide you over until the SS one arrives
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