You can buy a whirlpool arm that the pump recirculates through or put your mash paddle in an electric drill and do it that way.
You can buy a whirlpool arm that the pump recirculates through or put your mash paddle in an electric drill and do it that way.
Nah, the drill thing is the lazy way. The effort way involves stirring the batch anticlockwise with a paddle for 20 minutes. If you find your batch is a bit overlength at the end, it's probably due to sweat and perspiration. The long and the short of it is: I don't do whirlpools.Yes that’s a very efficient method with the drill but it involves effort and I don’t do effort
Now you're talking!If you were making a gose you could skip the salt addition then
I replaced the T on mine with a 90 degree bend on one end and a blanking piece on the other. This gives it a lower profile and enables the helix to be arranges in a spiral. I don’t use a false bottom as well and it works fine with both whole and pellet hops.I'm rather looking forward to a solution here. I purchased a helix a while ago in a bit of excess Aliexpress shopping... and then couldn't work out how to fit it without lots of other bits to connect it to the tap. I never thought of connecting it to the pump drain.
Hi Lisa - I think I might have suggested stretching a bit of silicone hose over the 8mm barb; that should make it fit without leaking, and avoid it coming loose?@private4587
What I can tell you is - the 10mm barb doesn't fit. The 8mm barb fits but it jiggles about inside. Something in between would be ideal but I don't think they sell that size. I do think it'll help a little with the remnants of the hops but I wouldn't have said it will eliminate the whole problem as the barb is not a tight fit.
The false bottom does sit on top of it but it's rickety, because the tee piece sticks up a little bit too far. I will manage though I think. The malt pipe will sit flat on top of it, so as long as you don't knock it, it should be ok. Having said that, there's the weight of the grain and water to consider.
Will have to wait and see. I'd deffo go with whole hops for the boil and pellets for the dry hopping if required.
You can buy a whirlpool arm that the pump recirculates through or put your mash paddle in an electric drill and do it that way.
On the small scale of a domestic all in one system there seem to be very few benefits of a whirlpool, which is simply a hop stand with a bit more effort. The accretion of hops into a central cone while appearing quite neat has very limited if any merit at this scale as the total quantity of hop and cold break debris in a cone or just flat against the base is not going to affect the draw off points due to their positioning. Many of the merits of whirlpooling are attributed to faster cooling which is also less relevant at a domestic scale, and not at all if using a plate or counterflow chiller. It would be interesting to see any comparative experience or argument for whirlpool vs hopstand with the occasional stir as I can't see the benefit at our homebrew scale.
I too am a fan of a post-boil hopstand but I’m wondering whether using a Hop Rocket full of whole hops immediately prior to my plate chiller is a quicker and more effective way to capture and retain hop flavour compounds in the wort. I’ve tried it once - it worked seemed to work well but required the use of a pump as I didn’t have sufficient height/head to cope with both Hop Rocket and chiller then fill the fermenter using gravity alone in a single pass.I totally agree w.r.t. the relevance of creating the classic central cone of hops and trub at the homebrew scale. However, I always had the feeling that the constant gentle circulation might just help the extract a bit more goodness from the late addition hops, as does stirring a pot of tea. And clearly there is the benefit of faster cooling by keeping the wort moving if like me you use a coil immersion chiller, but as RoomWithABrew mentions above you need a powerful pump, particularly when the chiller coil is in the vessel.
I now use a hop-stand with an occasional stir, and this seems to work ok for me. But like you I would be curious to see the results of a controlled experiment done on the same or similar all-in-one equipment.
I use my hop missile all the time for flame out hops I put the hops in a hop sock with rice hulls This has the added bonus of catching a lot of suspended **** as it’s pumped through the the hop missile It seems to work for meI've just ordered the hop rocket partly to catch hot break that is too fine for the trub trap. I will give it a go as an inline hopback but the counterflow chiller is pretty effective so the wort going thru it if recirculating would be on a cooling delta.
I'll see how the guten 70 pump copes with that inline as well and update in a few weeks.
Thanks @Mash Monster. Do you use whole hops only or does adding rice hulls and using a hop sock enable you to use pellet hops too? Where do you get your r8ce hulls? When I’ve seen them they’ve struck me as expensive for a consumable.I use my hop missile all the time for flame out hops I put the hops in a hop sock with rice hulls This has the added bonus of catching a lot of suspended **** as it’s pumped through the the hop missile It seems to work for me
good luck
Hi WynneThanks @Mash Monster. Do you use whole hops only or does adding rice hulls and using a hop sock enable you to use pellet hops too? Where do you get your r8ce hulls? When I’ve seen them they’ve struck me as expensive for a consumable.
Thanks @Mash Monster. Do you use whole hops only or does adding rice hulls and using a hop sock enable you to use pellet hops too? Where do you get your r8ce hulls? When I’ve seen them they’ve struck me as expensive for a consumable.
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