I’m out working all day today so will check the diameter tomorrow, I cut a small, about 2cm length off one of the silicone dip tubes I have to use with my fv buckets adapted to use with ball lock fittings.
Blockages
- Thread starter Tess Tickle's Brewery
- Start date
Help Support The Homebrew Forum:
private4587
Member
Sort to be a pain Anna but did you manage to measure the tubing
Sorry I forgot I was working till midnight yesterday as well... a bit weary today. Here's a photo of the tubing attached with the helix. The silicone tube has an ID of 6 mm and an external of just under 9mm to my eye on a rather basic school ruler.
This looks like the item here sourcing map Silicone Tubing, 6mm ID x 9mm OD 1.5m Rubber Tube Air Hose Water Pipe for Pump Transfer Translucent : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
private4587
Member
Thanks Anna
Big bump/thread resurrection
Hi all
Thinking about getting one of these helix coil thingies for the tap inlet on my all in one (first gen Ace).
Has anyone fitted one to their tap outlet rather than the pump inlet? If so, do the ends of the coil simply push into the T peice or are they threaded and need to be screwed in? If screwed in is there enough room to rotate the whole thing as it's screwed onto the tap thread?
Cheers Tom
Hi all
Thinking about getting one of these helix coil thingies for the tap inlet on my all in one (first gen Ace).
Has anyone fitted one to their tap outlet rather than the pump inlet? If so, do the ends of the coil simply push into the T peice or are they threaded and need to be screwed in? If screwed in is there enough room to rotate the whole thing as it's screwed onto the tap thread?
Cheers Tom
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2013
- Messages
- 6,825
- Reaction score
- 6,988
I used to import these from China, I did try the T piece but found that from the tap outlet a gap was created because of the height of a T piece so used an elbow and one single coil. This worked because at the time I wasn't cooling the wort. Cooling the wort I tried 2 and even 3 joined together using capillary couplings but still wasn't satisfactory because of the difference in the viscosity of the wort.
I now use my Foxinator for transfer from kettle to fermenter. Much better.
A gap? Didn't the thread on the T piece fit onto the back of the tap? And why would cooling the wort make a difference? I don't quite follow
Cheers Tom
Sounds interesting....any more info?
RoomWithABrew
Landlord.
The T piece is the same thread as the tap thread. You can get the T piece onto the small bit of thread beyond the securing nut or remove the nut and use the T piece as the securing nut and also for the helix.
I had a helix and found it didn't work as well as I wanted it let debris through. Also I wouldn't want to throttle the inlet to the drain with a narrower diameter insert if I was using it on the pump.
If you want to keep hops and break out of your fermenter use a " trubtrapper " either home made ( my option due to lack of availability) or off the peg option such as this.
https://www.brewtools.com/products/...ssories/trubinator-s-ø320-7712699-p0000000402
although I suspect a little large for the 35litre all in ones.
Picture of my homemade trapper post drain
I had a helix and found it didn't work as well as I wanted it let debris through. Also I wouldn't want to throttle the inlet to the drain with a narrower diameter insert if I was using it on the pump.
If you want to keep hops and break out of your fermenter use a " trubtrapper " either home made ( my option due to lack of availability) or off the peg option such as this.
https://www.brewtools.com/products/...ssories/trubinator-s-ø320-7712699-p0000000402
although I suspect a little large for the 35litre all in ones.
Picture of my homemade trapper post drain
Ah, right. So a straightforward screw on to the back of the tap. Then is the coil a push fit on to the T piece or does it need screwing in too? If so, once one end is connected is there enough twist to enable the other end to be screwed in?
Cheers Tom
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2013
- Messages
- 6,825
- Reaction score
- 6,988
The coil is actually an extension spring so the slight curve from the tap opens up the coil. An elbow going down keeps the coil together .
Hot wort has a lower viscosity so can enter the coils easily leaving the trub behind. Cool wort has a higher viscosity, it is thicker than hot wort so has trouble exiting through the coils.
No not because I don't want to. I have come up with a couple of ideas and put them on social media. Keg Land have used both. Was making some pocket money from the helix. They were $2 each (US) out of China I was selling them for $45 Australian selling plenty, then Keg Land got onto it and is selling them for $9. Malt pipe extensions was another.
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2013
- Messages
- 6,825
- Reaction score
- 6,988
Wont work with a T piece you will get trub going through the top of the coil coming out of the tap. Elbow is the way to go, with a no chill.
Eskdale
Active Member
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2022
- Messages
- 72
- Reaction score
- 136
I have one Tom, bought it from Keg Land
. In Australia no chill is popular so it does work a treat. I still use mine in the summer with a cooling coil and transfer to my Snub Nose fermenter at about 35 C and it works fine. Just pitch the yeast the following day after cooling over night. In the winter I use a siphon to get wort clarity in the fermenter, no big deal just takes an extra 5 to 10 minutes.Emma.
I just use a sieve in the bottom of the Boiler to remove the hop debris - the yeast seems quite happy to sort out the rest of the trub during fermentation.
Getting a little confused now.
Am I correct in assuming that these coil things work much better with hot wort and that they're more prone to blocking with wort that has been cooled in the kettle to around 25c?
Cheers Tom
Am I correct in assuming that these coil things work much better with hot wort and that they're more prone to blocking with wort that has been cooled in the kettle to around 25c?
Cheers Tom
My other option was after cooling, leave to settle for an hour or so then just drain through the tap.
There have been many conversations about trub/debris/general muck from the kettle being allowed into the fermenter. From what I've read the "majority" say remove as much as possible or your beer will stale sooner, along with other problems. Those brewers who simply allow everything into the fermenter say they suffer none of the reported issues. Personally I would prefer to remove as much as possible, if only because it takes up too much space in the fermenter when it settles and the look of it is a bit of a mental block.
Cheers Tom
Tom one maybe shouldn't take the Brulosophy experiments too literally, but this is worth a read: exBEERiment | Kettle Trub: Low Vs. High In A German Pils
RoomWithABrew
Landlord.
Similar threads
