Any benefit to building an Inkbird PID box?

[r-evans]

I plan to use an Inkbird for my BIAB setup to control mash temp, along with a pump to recirculate the wort. I could buy an ITC-308 which I've used before and was fine, but have been looking at the ITC-100 which appeals to me as I like tinkering with things and building one into a box seems like a fun project. I also plan to run a ferm fridge with the same unit when not brewing.

Are there any benefits to having the ITC-100 over the ready to use ITC-308? I plan to use a 2.4 - 3.2KW element, are there any limitations to power output with either of these?

Has anybody built anything cool using one of these? I really like the control panels available in the US where you can control a heating element and a pump from the same panel, is this an option with the ITC-100?

Just wondering if it is worth looking at.

Any info appreciated.

Cheers

 

[Petrolhead]

I have a few Inkbirds and they are great. A year or so ago I bought an ITC100 for about £5 new and really enjoyed sourcing all the parts and assembling them.

At the end of the day I saved about £15 and my time was free. It was money well spent but in truth it would have been easier time and financially to buy one.

But it was worth building it.

The only exception to this is if you are building the controller into something like a keezer where you may be able to a neater job with components.

 

[DavidHatton]

I plan to use an Inkbird for my BIAB setup to control mash temp, along with a pump to recirculate the wort. I could buy an ITC-308 which I've used before and was fine, but have been looking at the ITC-100 which appeals to me as I like tinkering with things and building one into a box seems like a fun project. I also plan to run a ferm fridge with the same unit when not brewing.

Are there any benefits to having the ITC-100 over the ready to use ITC-308? I plan to use a 2.4 - 3.2KW element, are there any limitations to power output with either of these?

Has anybody built anything cool using one of these? I really like the control panels available in the US where you can control a heating element and a pump from the same panel, is this an option with the ITC-100?

Just wondering if it is worth looking at.

Any info appreciated.

Cheers

I use the grainfather controller, and also bought the pump from another site in europe. no wiring and works good enough for my needs, keeps good temp too.

 

[cushyno]

Similar to an Inkbird ITC100 I built a one stop shop brew panel around a rex100c PID. Used this for 18 months and it has been well worth the time taken to build.

https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/ott-brewday-power-panel.79636/

 

[r-evans]

Similar to an Inkbird ITC100 I built a one stop shop brew panel around a rex100c PID. Used this for 18 months and it has been well worth the time taken to build.

https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/ott-brewday-power-panel.79636/

That looks really good, are you just controlling the Peco boiler with that?

I'd be interested to build something similar, although I think I'd have to do a lot of reading before attempting something as intricate as that.

 

[Drunkula]

I plan to use a 2.4 - 3.2KW element, are there any limitations to power output with either of these?

If you're using the relay version of the ITC then it's 10 amps, same with the 308 so you'll be looking into using a beefier relay to control the element. There are solid state relay (SSR) and Inkbird deals out there or you can take your chances with Chinese knockoffs. The ITC has two versions for output, one with a voltage output directly for a relay, or the other version has a 10 amp relay that you'd have to feed a power source into to power a relay. That might sound like gibberish to anyone that doesn't know how relays work.

I've got low power input + relay versions of ITCs so the mains comes into a 12v transformer that powers the unit and the +ve is split off going to the relay and that switches the SSR. Using 12 volts the internal relay in the ITC is good for about 2.5 million on/offs apparently so don't worry too much about which version you get. I also like the clicking sound.

PIDs like the ITC and 'switches' like the 308 are very different but you can run the ITC in a switching mode and it has the benefit of the manual setting where you can tell it to switch on for say 30% of a time window which is great for moderating a boil.

 

[r-evans]

Thanks, that sort of makes sense to me. Haha

I'm still wrapping my head around how they work, I like learning new things so will watch a few more videos too.

 

[r-evans]

Ideally I'd like to have something like this, which I can't find in the UK, hence why I thought about building one myself.

Temp controller with heat and pump switch.

https://www.ink-bird.com/products-PID-controller-ipb16s.html

 

[cushyno]

That looks really good, are you just controlling the Peco boiler with that?

I'd be interested to build something similar, although I think I'd have to do a lot of reading before attempting something as intricate as that.

The wiring did take a while to figure out. I don't know where I put my wiring diagram, otherwise I'd share it.

 

[r-evans]

I use the grainfather controller, and also bought the pump from another site in europe. no wiring and works good enough for my needs, keeps good temp too.

Grainfather website says 2000W heating for their control box, so I guess it will take a little longer to heat up than if I build my own? I plan to use a 2.4kw element, maybe higher.

 

[DavidHatton]

I use 2.8kw, the controller uses generally on 80% after boil is reached via a manual reduction of power, and never really pushes the controller during mash, Plus side is the step mashing you can do automatically raising temps, brewed a imperial pils and did i think multi mash steps all pre-programmed via the recipe creator. Piece of cake. The controller has side vents so never really heats up even with the 2.8kw element, done about 12 brews now and no issues...

 

[pottsworth]

It may also be worth looking at the craft beer pi Facebook group, as there are loads of people on there who have shared photos of their panel builds, and they will give you a lot of flexibility should you wish to expand in the future.

I personally built a fermentation controller box with a reflashed stc1000, then fairly promptly pulled it all apart again to rebuild as a brewpi.

 

[r-evans]

That Pi looks very cool but a little overkill for me if I'm honest, maybe in a few years

Quick question to anyone that might know, my electricity knowledge isn't great.

The Inkbird 308 says max output of 10A. If I bought one to use for brewing to start with (plan to run a brew fridge with one anyway) would that mean I have to get a 10A or lower element, or would it run a higher amp element at 70% power or whatever? The element I want is 13A but don't want anything setting on fire ha