Youngs American IPA

[terrym]

After my first brew I have learned that patience is definitely required and everything is to be handled carefully as I had a LOT of yeast in my bottles of YAIPA.
Now, I've just put my second brew on and I'm determined not to have the same problems this time round.
After going in to my local HBS and tasting various brews, I decided on:-http://www.lovebrewing.co.uk/sierra/

Looks like you are on your way again, with a few tweaks.
There are no forum reviews of the Lovebrewing kit you are doing as far I can see. Why not start one in the forum kit review section......
http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=37
You could start with telling us what you have decided to do and how it all looks as you progress. Others will be interested especially as this range of kits is currently on offer and free delivery is much better than other online places (free on orders over �£46). And, of course, you can still ask questions in the new thread :thumb:

 

[dublin12]

@Gazaman You need yeast to carbonate the beer so surely it is counter productive to try to get the yeast to drop out before priming it?

The other concern is you have now indicated 7 days of hopping vs 2 in the instructions. I'd imagine that will definitely lead to a sharp pungent taste.

Have mine fermenting at moment so playing close attention here ;-)

 

[Clint]

ALL the yeast won't drop out..I dry hopped mine for 6 days,aimed for 5 but had a delay. ..it's absolutely fine...well more than fine..

Cheers

Clint

 

[tomr30]

I'm going to be butting mine into a pressure barrel in a few days time. The instructions say to store in a warm place. My hous is usually between 18-23°, would this be ok? And after a few weeks of that is it ok to go into the fridge, that's at 5°?

Thanks

Tom

 

[Gazaman]

Looks like you are on your way again, with a few tweaks.
There are no forum reviews of the Lovebrewing kit you are doing as far I can see. Why not start one in the forum kit review section......
http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=37
You could start with telling us what you have decided to do and how it all looks as you progress. Others will be interested especially as this range of kits is currently on offer and free delivery is much better than other online places (free on orders over ��£46). And, of course, you can still ask questions in the new thread :thumb:

Good idea mate :grin:
http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?p=644963#post644963

 

[Javalian]

@Gazaman You need yeast to carbonate the beer so surely it is counter productive to try to get the yeast to drop out before priming it?

The other concern is you have now indicated 7 days of hopping vs 2 in the instructions. I'd imagine that will definitely lead to a sharp pungent taste.

Have mine fermenting at moment so playing close attention here ;-)

Hi, not on Youngsters AIPA, but I have brewed a St Peter's Ruby red, as is, no dry hopping etc. But I was ill over the last few weeks so couldn't get it bottled, ending up leaving it 3 weeks in primary FV. Added priming sugar to bottles. As I usually do. Will this carbonate even though I left it so long? Would leaving it in warm for over the usual 2 weeks help at all? Thanks

 

[dublin12]

Hi, not on Youngsters AIPA, but I have brewed a St Peter's Ruby red, as is, no dry hopping etc. But I was ill over the last few weeks so couldn't get it bottled, ending up leaving it 3 weeks in primary FV. Added priming sugar to bottles. As I usually do. Will this carbonate even though I left it so long? Would leaving it in warm for over the usual 2 weeks help at all? Thanks

It will be fine, keep them warm (ie fermenting temp for that yeast) for about 2 weeks and they will carbonate.

 

[terrym]

Hi, not on Youngsters AIPA, but I have brewed a St Peter's Ruby red, as is, no dry hopping etc. But I was ill over the last few weeks so couldn't get it bottled, ending up leaving it 3 weeks in primary FV. Added priming sugar to bottles. As I usually do. Will this carbonate even though I left it so long? Would leaving it in warm for over the usual 2 weeks help at all? Thanks

+1 on what dublin12 has said.
I have recently extended times before packaging my beer to minimise yeast carry over. My last brew has only got a dusting of settled yeast on the bottom the the bottles. Since I use PET bottles in the main I have noticed that it does take longer to carb up than when there is a noticeable amount of yeast in the bottle but it does eventually get there, although 2 weeks may not be enough. If you don't use PET you could open a bottle after the two weeks is up to see how things are progressing

 

[Javalian]

Terrym, thanks, if I open one after 2 weeks is that is as carved as it will be if I then put in cold? Or will continue to care up whilst in storage (unheated garage for me)
If I keep in warm for another, say 1 week are there any other consequences taste wise?

 

[terrym]

Terrym, thanks, if I open one after 2 weeks is that is as carved as it will be if I then put in cold? Or will continue to care up whilst in storage (unheated garage for me)
If I keep in warm for another, say 1 week are there any other consequences taste wise?

Yeast will work on the priming sugar until it has consumed all it wants. If there is not a lot of yeast it will simply take longer to achieve the same level of carbonation that would have happened had there been more yeast, assuming the same carbing temperature. If you try your beer after two weeks in the warm and it has reached the level of carbing that you would expect, then that's it and so you can then start to condition it. If its not as carbed as you would expect then simply leave it longer. If its not finished and you move it to a cold place the yeast may then go dormant (say if its below about 12-14*C ish ) and you won't finish the carbing process, unless the yeast wakes up if the temperature increases.
My take on leaving it in the warm for longer is that it will not make any difference to the taste. Lots of homebrewers don't have a brewfridge and are only able to condition and store beer at ambient temperatures, which in the summer may well be equal to fermenting temperatures or even higher. And of course commercial bottled beer is not stored in refrigerated conditions.

 

[Gareth_H]

Sounds all right to me.
Keep it where it is with the lid on for another week or so, then take another SG reading. By then it will probably have reached 1.007 or 1.008 maybe lower. You can then dry hop if you wish, alternatively and preferably imo wait until the SG has stabilised out then dry hop.I would leave the hops in for at least 4 days but no longer than 7. This kit takes a long time to ferment so you have to be patient.
Dont worry about the volume , it is what it is.

Happy to say this all worked out, tried first bottle last night and all is good :-)

Having done this one twice now, am wondering whether to do a 3rd or try something else.

Are there any other hoppy IPA's just as good? What is the Youngs APA like?

Keep reading about Cwtch too, is that worth trying? Or should I just stick with this one, which I like.

 

[wfr42]

Haven't done the cwtch kit but really enjoyed the commercial version.

The apa seemed to have a less floccuent yeast for me which altered the brew a lot when I ended up with some in my glass - which happened more than I'd have liked.

I never tried the festival golden stag - think that's what is most comparable to the aipa

 

[terrym]

Happy to say this all worked out, tried first bottle last night and all is good :-)

Having done this one twice now, am wondering whether to do a 3rd or try something else.

Are there any other hoppy IPA's just as good? What is the Youngs APA like?

Keep reading about Cwtch too, is that worth trying? Or should I just stick with this one, which I like.

Glad to hear your AIPA has turned out good.
I have done both the AIPA and the APA and actually prefer the APA although tbh there isn't much in it. If I recall correctly the APA is slightly more malty and less hoppy which is why it probably suits my palate more. The review is here
http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=53846

 

[Ninja_Brew]

Happy to say this all worked out, tried first bottle last night and all is good :-)

Having done this one twice now, am wondering whether to do a 3rd or try something else.

Are there any other hoppy IPA's just as good? What is the Youngs APA like?

Keep reading about Cwtch too, is that worth trying? Or should I just stick with this one, which I like.

I've just finished bottle conditioning APA after brewing two AIPAs previously. It's also a good kit, but a little less hoppy. The lower ABV makes it more suitable to having a few too.

 

[Ninja_Brew]

Last night I pitched the yeast for my 3rd YIPA brew since I took up home brewing last year. As I went to pack the rest of the stuff away, I noticed that there were two 100g bags of dry hop pellets in my kit!

The question is - do I add even more hops and add part / all of the second packet, or do I save them to add to another kit I may make for an attempt at an AG brew at a later date?

While the brew is generally great, I'm aware that the hop flavour and aroma fades over time. Would adding more be overkill?

 

[pms67]

Last night I pitched the yeast for my 3rd YIPA brew since I took up home brewing last year. As I went to pack the rest of the stuff away, I noticed that there were two 100g bags of dry hop pellets in my kit!

The question is - do I add even more hops and add part / all of the second packet, or do I save them to add to another kit I may make for an attempt at an AG brew at a later date?

While the brew is generally great, I'm aware that the hop flavour and aroma fades over time. Would adding more be overkill?

Its personal taste really, if you like a hop bomb then go for it although super tasty I find they aren't session beers, one or two then on to a Pilsner or something for me.
I used to think 50g of hops was a lot but now i use 100g minimum in most brews, its a nice beerkit whatever you do 👍

 

[Ninja_Brew]

Its personal taste really, if you like a hop bomb then go for it although super tasty I find they aren't session beers, one or two then on to a Pilsner or something for me.
I used to think 50g of hops was a lot but now i use 100g minimum in most brews, its a nice beerkit whatever you do 👍

Thanks. My hunch is that I could take more hops, but not the full double dose. It's a decent brew as is, so don't want to ruin it. I wonder if anyone who's into big-hopped US IPAs has ever overdone it?

 

[Ninja_Brew]

I'd heard about the rather vigorous nature of the fermentation for this, but the last two were left in the corner of an upstairs bedroom and I hadn't encountered any problems. The third one is on a Beer Pad at 22 degrees. Here's what greeted me from work less than 48 hours after pitching. It's spent 24 hours behaving more like the magic porridge pot than a beer!

 

[Clint]

Blow off tube methinks....

 

[Jiminy]

Hi chaps! So i have just started this whole brewing thing and am going through a trial and error learning curve. I am smack in the middle of making the Young's AIPA kit, I have been fermenting with the wilco heatmat at between 22-24C. I did everything to the instructions except I decided to make a yeast starter instead of sprinkling it on the top. I took an SG reading at the start of 1.064. After a week fermentation had slowed right down and I was worried that it had somehow cooled overnight and the yeast had stopped working. I took a SG reading today and it was just below 1.010. When taking the sample I noticed the beer smelled a bit sour, almost like a cider. Moving forward, as per the instructions I have added the hop pellets. Immediately after adding the pellets the air lock has started bubbling again. I have 3 questions:

1. Is that way too fast for fermentation? Why might that happen?

2. Could quick fermentation be linked to sour smell or is that normal at this stage?

3. Could fermentation be restarted by the hops at such a low SG? Or is it almost definitely a release of existing co2 in the beer.

Any help is really appreciated. Thanks in advance.

James