Youngs American IPA

[tomr30]

I'm using the trug and aquarium heater method I found on this forum to keep my FV at a stable temperature.

Once fermentation is complete and I transfer over to a keg what's the best method of keeping it at a stable warm temperature for conditioning? My house is usually around 20c but gets around 16c of a night. I was thinking of using a heating belt on the keg.

Then after a few weeks in the warm how cool do I need it to be? I can keep a room at around 16c or the keg could go in my fridge at 5c, which would be best?

Thanks,

Tom

 

[Gareth_H]

Hi

I wonder if you can help. I am attempting my 2nd batch of Youngs American IPA and after 8 days, there is very little airlock activity.

I have checked and gravity is at 1.010 though. There is definitely frothing on the top and around the side of the barrel.

It has been stored at about 20 degress.

One thing worth noting is that while I did fill t0 23 lites, once the frothing settled down from filling it is rested at 25 lites.

Am just concerned that there is something not right with it.

Gareth

 

[terrym]

Hi

I wonder if you can help. I am attempting my 2nd batch of Youngs American IPA and after 8 days, there is very little airlock activity.

I have checked and gravity is at 1.010 though. There is definitely frothing on the top and around the side of the barrel.

It has been stored at about 20 degress.

One thing worth noting is that while I did fill t0 23 lites, once the frothing settled down from filling it is rested at 25 lites.

Am just concerned that there is something not right with it.

Gareth

Sounds all right to me.
Keep it where it is with the lid on for another week or so, then take another SG reading. By then it will probably have reached 1.007 or 1.008 maybe lower. You can then dry hop if you wish, alternatively and preferably imo wait until the SG has stabilised out then dry hop.I would leave the hops in for at least 4 days but no longer than 7. This kit takes a long time to ferment so you have to be patient.
Dont worry about the volume , it is what it is.

 

[Gazaman]

Just finished my last bottle and although I liked it,i don't think ill do it again. It had the hoppiness I was after but was too tart/pungent. Don't get me wrong, it was ok but wouldn't in any way compare it punk(one of my faves) as others have done in this thread. Saying that I think I may have disturbed my fv before bottling as nearly every bottle had to be short poured by about an inch each due to an obvious milkyness in the bottom.

 

[Gareth_H]

Sounds all right to me.
Keep it where it is with the lid on for another week or so, then take another SG reading. By then it will probably have reached 1.007 or 1.008 maybe lower. You can then dry hop if you wish, alternatively and preferably imo wait until the SG has stabilised out then dry hop.I would leave the hops in for at least 4 days but no longer than 7. This kit takes a long time to ferment so you have to be patient.
Dont worry about the volume , it is what it is.

Thank You, here's hoping. It's looking pretty lifeless at the moment but with a bit of luck it should be ok.

 

[terrym]

Just finished my last bottle and although I liked it,i don't think ill do it again. It had the hoppiness I was after but was too tart/pungent. Don't get me wrong, it was ok but wouldn't in any way compare it punk(one of my faves) as others have done in this thread. Saying that I think I may have disturbed my fv before bottling as nearly every bottle had to be short poured by about an inch each due to an obvious milkyness in the bottom.

If you are ending up with yeast in your glass, then that might explain the off taste. When I did this kit I noticed that the yeast provided does have its own acidic bitterness
There is a lesson in your experience. If I remember correctly you were anxious to get your beer ready for Xmas and appeared to be trying to get the beer in the bottles asap. The moral of the tale is that you are well advised to wait until the beer has almost cleared before you transfer. That way you avoid getting excess yeast carried forward and it also allows the beer to undergo a clean up/secondary fermentation which it needs. I also leave mine for about three days in my unheated garage when things are starting to clear which helps drop the yeast, and this is in addition to an earlier racking off into a second FV. That said I'm sure we have all hurried things along at some time and ended up with too much yeast in our bottles.

 

[bigbud78]

Well my kit got down to 1.008 after 22 days so I dry hopped it, didnt use a muslin

Now has a crust on top again after two days, is this normal ? Was planning on cold crashing it for two days before bottling on sunday

 

[Oneflewover]

Well my kit got down to 1.008 after 22 days so I dry hopped it, didnt use a muslin

Now has a crust on top again after two days, is this normal ? Was planning on cold crashing it for two days before bottling on sunday

All looks good. The hop pellet detritus should drop out after a couple more days. I suggest that you use a filter of some sort over the racking cane when you syphon.

 

[BeerisGOD]

I would go with your instinct though with cold crashing if you want to get the yeast and hops debris to fall out. I've found hops stay up unless the temp is at near fridge temps. Take advantage of this cold snap of weather we're getting over the next few days. I kept my last batch in the hallway over night. Nice and clear in the morning and this was over a short period.

PS. I tried my last ipa Young's last week. I bottled it over five months ago. Now I'd left myn over four weeks in the fv. And although the aroma had faded it still came across a lovely light bitter. Most have said they taste vile at this time, but I believe the extra time made it a great pint with or without the big hop volumes.

 

[terrym]

All looks good. The hop pellet detritus should drop out after a couple more days. I suggest that you use a filter of some sort over the racking cane when you syphon.

+1 on that.
And if you gently swirl the contents of the FV as well, you might encourage the hops to settle..... except don't do it on the last two days before you bottle since overall that is counter-productive :thumb:

 

[Gazaman]

After my first brew I have learned that patience is definitely required and everything is to be handled carefully as I had a LOT of yeast in my bottles of YAIPA.
Now, I've just put my second brew on and I'm determined not to have the same problems this time round.
After going in to my local HBS and tasting various brews, I decided on:-http://www.lovebrewing.co.uk/sierra/
Now to keep my beer as clear as possible, I plan on taking the following steps:-
1)Ferment as normal on heat pad for at least a couple of weeks in fv until complete
2)Add hops in muslin bag for 5 days
3)Dissolve priming sugar in second fv
4)Syphon into second fv using muslin bag over Syphon
5)Put this second fv on heatpad and leave for a couple of weeks
6)Syphon to easy kegs and bottles
7)Take into shed and leave for at least a couple of weeks to condition
8)Drink :-)

Does this sound ok?

I also have a couple of questions if you don't mind:-
Q1)Ive noticed people add hops in the second fv! Why? Surely this would be better in the first to try and keep the secondary as clear as possible?
Q2)If adding the hops in a muslin bag, should I just add the bag with hops in and leave to float about or should I weigh it down so it sits at the bottom in the sludge?

Thanks chaps
Gaz

 

[Clint]

If you put on a heater with your priming sugar in it you will have to prime again before bottling . I syphon into bottling bucket on top of priming sugar when fermentation has definitely finished..two weeks or more but when the fg is at the expected level and constant. The beer is usually quite clear by now and two weeks in a warm place then moved to a cold place for a few weeks the yeast drops out. There is only a few mm in the bottle and pouring is easy. I class clear as being able to see through sort of..not crystal like shop bought,although my last few Wherry from may were pretty near..to get crystal clear you will probably have to wait/cold crash or filter/use finings and force carbonate .

Cheers

Clint

 

[terrym]

After my first brew I have learned that patience is definitely required and everything is to be handled carefully as I had a LOT of yeast in my bottles of YAIPA.
Now, I've just put my second brew on and I'm determined not to have the same problems this time round.
After going in to my local HBS and tasting various brews, I decided on:-http://www.lovebrewing.co.uk/sierra/
Now to keep my beer as clear as possible, I plan on taking the following steps:-
1)Ferment as normal on heat pad for at least a couple of weeks in fv until complete
2)Add hops in muslin bag for 5 days
3)Dissolve priming sugar in second fv
4)Syphon into second fv using muslin bag over Syphon
5)Put this second fv on heatpad and leave for a couple of weeks
6)Syphon to easy kegs and bottles
7)Take into shed and leave for at least a couple of weeks to condition
8)Drink :-)

Does this sound ok?

I also have a couple of questions if you don't mind:-
Q1)Ive noticed people add hops in the second fv! Why? Surely this would be better in the first to try and keep the secondary as clear as possible?
Q2)If adding the hops in a muslin bag, should I just add the bag with hops in and leave to float about or should I weigh it down so it sits at the bottom in the sludge?

Thanks chaps
Gaz

My suggested changes to what you said....
1)Ferment as normal on heat pad until SG readings bottomed out or at least ten days whichever is longer. If your beer is still very cloudy just leave it longer.
2)Syphon into second fv, and add hops in muslin bag. Put this second fv on heatpad and leave for four days
4)Move FV to the coldest place you have for a further 3 days
5)Dissolve priming sugar in second fv
6)Syphon to easy kegs and bottles
7) Keep packaged beer in a warm place for two weeks
8)Take into shed and leave for at least a couple of weeks before you try your first sample; decide if its drinkable ; some dark and/or stronger beers may need at least six weeks before they get to their best

If you put the hops in muslin bag the hops should not escape so your brew should not become contaminated with hop bits. I use 4 SS soup spoons to weigh the bag down. Even then it will try to float.

In the end you will find what works for you best.

 

[Gazaman]

Thanks Terrym, this makes sense. But you say you add your priming sugar then bottle!? Does this not disturb it? How do you add the Sugar?
The room where I brew is very cold anyway but I use a homemade insulated fv jacket,a heat pad and an ink bird and I can keep at 20 degrees +-0.5 degrees. So after dry hopping in a secondary fv, I can turn off the heat pad for a couple of days to cold crash, then I need to prime then bottle. This is where I want to make sure I'm doing it right. I really want my beer to be as clear as poss.

 

[terrym]

Thanks Terrym, this makes sense. But you say you add your priming sugar then bottle!? Does this not disturb it? How do you add the Sugar?
The room where I brew is very cold anyway but I use a homemade insulated fv jacket,a heat pad and an ink bird and I can keep at 20 degrees +-0.5 degrees. So after dry hopping in a secondary fv, I can turn off the heat pad for a couple of days to cold crash, then I need to prime then bottle. This is where I want to make sure I'm doing it right. I really want my beer to be as clear as poss.

There are two ways of priming
- do what I do which is to add sugar to bottles or PB direct
- add sugar in a 'batch prime' (which is what you are effectively proposing)
My understanding of what folks do in a prime batch is to either
- leave it in one FV throughout and at the end rack off into another vessel and then add the priming sugar to clear beer, and then go ahead and package
- rack off into a secondary FV after the primary has finished, continue with the fermentation process and then at the end add a solution of priming sugar to the FV and allow it an hour or so to mix in (without stirring) that way the yeast is not disturbed, and after this hour or so go ahead and package.
If you leave the priming sugar in the FV/bottling bucket for an extended period the yeast will wake up and generate more alcohol but importantly you lose the CO2 you require in your bottles/PB/keg.
If you want to refine my suggestions even more to go for clearer beer, you could extend my step 1, and then also delay adding the hops by a few days in step 2. In any case you may have to extend times to allow the yeast to settle in summer if you have no brew fridge.
There are no firm rules on this. You will find a method that works for you best, by your own experience, as you are doing, and by sorting through the varying opinions that you will get from members on here.

 

[pms67]

Or...........

You can do what I do and just dump the priming sugar into the FV and wait ten minutes, it works,no stirring at all.
Im sure im the only one who does this, most dissolve im water then add which is fine, but ibe never had a carbonation problem, its just another option.
I go with 7g per litre for lager /Pilsner /wheat
And 4-5 g per litre for Pale Ale /Ipa's
Cheers

 

[dublin12]

Giving this kit a go -

http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=68075

good tips in here !

 

[Gazaman]

Thanks for the suggestions regarding adding the priming sugar chaps.
1)I'm gonna leave on heatpad for at least two weeks or until primary is finished.
2)I'm then going to add hops in a muslin bag and leave for around 4 days.
3)Turn off the heat then leave for a few days in the cold
4)Dissolve the sugar in a second fv (not sure how much water to use at the min though)
5)Syphon into secondary using muslin filter, then leave an hour or so before bottling.
Fingers crossed this does the job. If this batch turns out like the rest then I think I'm gonna leave it to the pros.
I think my expectations were a little too high before and expected pub quality beer.

One more question if you don't mind..... is finings ever used in beer?
Cheers
Gaz

 

[Clint]

As for dissolving priming sugar...I boil "enough"water to dissolve the req amount then leave to cool a bit then put into the bottling bucket and syphon on top, I sometimes give a gentle stir with a sterilised paddle but can't see a difference. I bottle straight away and don't get more than a thin layer of yeast in the bottle. As for pub quality...all my beer,so far,mostly kits,has been from good to oh yes! And my willing testers have agreed..but if standard ,say,pub lager is your ideal beer be prepared for a wake up on your taste buds...
I'm sure your beer will be excellent but the less faffing the better.

Cheers

Clint

 

[Gazaman]

As for dissolving priming sugar...I boil "enough"water to dissolve the req amount then leave to cool a bit then put into the bottling bucket and syphon on top, I sometimes give a gentle stir with a sterilised paddle but can't see a difference. I bottle straight away and don't get more than a thin layer of yeast in the bottle. As for pub quality...all my beer,so far,mostly kits,has been from good to oh yes! And my willing testers have agreed..but if standard ,say,pub lager is your ideal beer be prepared for a wake up on your taste buds...
I'm sure your beer will be excellent but the less faffing the better.

Cheers

Clint

Cheers Clint,
I think my impatience ruined my last brew and left me feeling a little underwhelmed to be honest. With a heavy yeast build up and overly sharp, bitter, pungent taste, I was disappointed. The taste was there at the back of the pallet so I know it was my own doing but it just wasn't right.
I guess I won't be the first over excited, inpatient first timer and certainly won't be the last.
And as for pub lager.....I only really drink it nowadays as a session drink with
the lads on rare days out etc. Tend to stick to strong,hoppy IPA's and craft beers nowadays :thumb:
Gaz