Tubular Heater for fermentation fridge- cable too thick?

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Hengoedbrewer

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Hiya guys

I am getting a fridge to use as a fermentation chamber in a couple of weeks time. Received my tubular heater via Amazon Prime yesterday, it is a Dimplex ECOT1FT. I was planning to keep things neat by running cables for the heater and the inkbird probe through the drain hole, but the heater has a cable thicker than I imagined. It also has a fitted plug. See pic attached. Should I

1. send it back for an alternative with a plug I fit myself so I can feed cable through drainage hole then add plug... Or
2. Use this one and juat do my best to shut door on the cable... does it matter if the fridge doesn't shut completely... OR
3. is the cable actually thin enough to shut the door on completely and I am overthinking?

Thanks in advance!
IMG_20191130_150144.jpg
 
I would keep drain hole as if you cold crash you will need it.

Drill a new hole for the heater and probe.
 
I could get the heater cable through the drain hole...after cutting off the plug.
The fridge door will close and seal over the ink bird probe cable.
 
I would keep drain hole as if you cold crash you will need it.

Drill a new hole for the heater and probe.
Hiya- thanks for that advice. Should have mentioned It is going to be a brand new frudge used as a spare second fridge so I really want to avoid drilling if possible. Thank you though!
 
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I take that you’re only going to be using it as a fridge when you’re not brewing then as for the fortnight or so it’s got a brew in it’ll be no good as a fridge....my brew fridge is only brewless for a short while.
Ah...I see,the old “spare fridge” trick.....
 
I could get the heater cable through the drain hole...after cutting off the plug.
The fridge door will close and seal over the ink bird probe cable.
I am an absolute ***** with diy but my father in law has just said it is a simple enough job apparently and will do it for me, so that's the plan now, thank you!
 
Would opening the hole enough to allow the cable through do any harm?
I really wasn't joking when I said idiotic diy skills... I might have a look when the fridge arrives to see if that's doable. I am excited about proper temp control and don't want to ruin the fridge so it is going to be path of least resistance!

Thanks all as ever for responses.
 
I just drilled a hole through the lower step area so that the cable comes out near the junction box for the compressor - which is handy. You do need a plastic sleeve if you do this as the thin metal is too sharp and may cut into the cable. Any nylon pipe the right size will do, Heat the end to flare it and stick in with silicon sealant. The evaporator coils (the cold ones) are always on the back wall of the upper compartment, so behind the veg drawer at the bottom is usually safe.
 
I fixed my tube-heater onto a piece of wood, to act as a stand, and when I want to convert to a brewfridge I just stand it in the bottom of the fridge with the cable running out under the bottom of the door ... the door closes fine and the door seal seems to seal around it if too ... the wire for the temp sensor goes in through the door seal too.

Cheers, PhilB
 
Any cables I have going into my fridge just sort of hang out the door. The seal fits around it and never had to do any drilling (I too am useless with DIY).
 
I really wasn't joking when I said idiotic diy skills... I might have a look when the fridge arrives to see if that's doable. I am excited about proper temp control and don't want to ruin the fridge so it is going to be path of least resistance!

Thanks all as ever for responses.

I managed to fit the cable for the tube heater and the probe through the drain hole on mine. If you haven’t got the fridge you don’t know whether or not you have an issue yet. It may be that you’re ok so long as you can cut off and retire the plug.
 
My 40W tube heater is screwed upwards into the shelf support that the FV sits on. Two large 50mm holes either end help let the heat out and haven't needed a fan yet.
 
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