St peters cream stout stuck

[Gaz_h]

Hi, I think I have a Cream Stout stuck at 1020 been there for 3 days and it's been on for 10 days. Do I need to give it a little help and if so, how?

It's brewing at 20/21c

Help apreciated, thanks!

 

[Rwilts]

How are you taking your gravity readings?

 

[Gaz_h]

How are you taking your gravity readings?

Lid off, hydrometer ..

 

[Rwilts]

Ok. Only ask because digital hydrometers are reknowned for stopping to drop around that value. I would leave it till day 14 and see if any more movement before trying anything else.

Options include a gentle stir with a stanitsed spoon, but the less you do the better. Also what was your starting gravity ?

 

[Gaz_h]

No sure on SG.... so I can only go with the official one from St Peters, which is 1048.

I up'd the temp a couple of degrees yesterday, so I'm going to check progress later today. I suppose with Stout, longer the better...?

 

[Gaz_h]

I've tried leaving it for another week, taking it to the suggested 14 days (kit says 6).

I put the mat under and temp went to 23 ish and gave it a gentle stir

Checked again and it's only moved to 1019 at best over a week. So that's 3.7 abv

Is there anything else I could do to waken the yeast? Do I add more yeast? Or is that it?

Thanks Gaz

 

[Sandimas]

The problem is that the yeast has run out of steam. Did you happen to note the size of the yeast packet it came with? Needs 11/12g for a 23L brew, some kits skimp on the yeast and only provide a 6g packet, and then the brews get stuck at 1020. It's a very common problem and lots of threads on here about it. Unfortunately you needed more yeast at the start and not the end, so adding more yeast now won't make a difference as most of the fermentables are used up. You could try adding 200-300g of sugar dissolved in a bit of warm water, and give it a gentle stir to rouse the yeast: sometimes it works, but there isn't a foolproof way to get a stuck brew re-started.

 

[Gaz_h]

The problem is that the yeast has run out of steam. Did you happen to note the size of the yeast packet it came with? Needs 11/12g for a 23L brew, some kits skimp on the yeast and only provide a 6g packet, and then the brews get stuck at 1020. It's a very common problem and lots of threads on here about it. Unfortunately you needed more yeast at the start and not the end, so adding more yeast now won't make a difference as most of the fermentables are used up. You could try adding 200-300g of sugar dissolved in a bit of warm water, and give it a gentle stir to rouse the yeast: sometimes it works, but there isn't a foolproof way to get a stuck brew re-started.

Thanks.... I might as well give more sugar ago. Nothing to lose apart from time!

So, out of interest, do you more experienced brewers hold a stock of yeast and hops etc for things like this?

 

[Sandimas]

So, out of interest, do you more experienced brewers hold a stock of yeast and hops etc for things like this?

Yes, always keep a stash of yeast in the fridge. Crossmyloof is a good supplier, very cheap & good yeast if you buy in bulk https://www.crossmyloofbrew.co.uk/

But experience tells em that if a kit comes with only 6g of yeast, I'll throw it (or use it in a smaller brew) and substitute it for a 11/12g packet. Not worth taking the risk, I've had the infamous 1020 stuck brew as have many others on the forum.

 

[Gaz_h]

Yes, always keep a stash of yeast in the fridge. Crossmyloof is a good supplier, very cheap & good yeast if you buy in bulk https://www.crossmyloofbrew.co.uk/

But experience tells em that if a kit comes with only 6g of yeast, I'll throw it (or use it in a smaller brew) and substitute it for a 11/12g packet. Not worth taking the risk, I've had the infamous 1020 stuck brew as have many others on the forum.

Thanks..... makes sense. I'm just trying to check the pk size on the St Peters site

 

[Gaz_h]

You could try adding 200-300g of sugar dissolved in a bit of warm water, and give it a gentle stir to rouse the yeast: sometimes it works, but there isn't a foolproof way to get a stuck brew re-started.

I added 250g of soft brown sugar and it seems to be working a treat. SG has dropped and I can see the yeast working.

I am going to try and Keg for the first time. I only have a plastic keg and some small gas canisters. When I transfer to the keg does it need pressurising straight away? And how do I know pressure it ok/enough?

 

[Paulus]

I added 250g of soft brown sugar and it seems to be working a treat. SG has dropped and I can see the yeast working.

I am going to try and Keg for the first time. I only have a plastic keg and some small gas canisters. When I transfer to the keg does it need pressurising straight away? And how do I know pressure it ok/enough?

1.Are you doing a 2nd fermentation to carbonate the beer or forced carbonation?
2.Or are you referring to how much pressure to transfer between fermenter and keg?

1.
If fermenting then follow the instructions on the packet for how much sugar to add to the keg(s).
If force carbonating then look up the CO2 volume recommended for a stout (probably about 2.0) and the temperature you will be storing at to get the pressure needed for the CO2 volume. Then leave for about a week (you can always test it before hand!).
https://drhansbrewery.com/beercarbonationcalculator/
There are probably quite a few calculators but this one is simple so l get on with it.

2.
The lowest amount you can get away with. I use about 5psi for non pressurised ferments. Then you don't need a spunding valve on the keg gas outlet.
How big is your plastic keg, 23L?

 

[Gaz_h]

1.Are you doing a 2nd fermentation to carbonate the beer or forced carbonation?
2.Or are you referring to how much pressure to transfer between fermenter and keg?

1.
If fermenting then follow the instructions on the packet for how much sugar to add to the keg(s).
If force carbonating then look up the CO2 volume recommended for a stout (probably about 2.0) and the temperature you will be storing at to get the pressure needed for the CO2 volume. Then leave for about a week (you can always test it before hand!).
https://drhansbrewery.com/beercarbonationcalculator/
There are probably quite a few calculators but this one is simple so l get on with it.

2.
The lowest amount you can get away with. I use about 5psi for non pressurised ferments. Then you don't need a spunding valve on the keg gas outlet.
How big is your plastic keg, 23L?

Hi and thanks
2nd fermentation.. just sorted out the stuck and syphoning off to a 23l keg.

Just couldn't get my head around the heads pace in the keg but read a bit more on here.... so use CO2 to pressure the keg and removing the oxygen, hopefully this won't leak. Keep topping up as the beer gets drunk. Firstly to replace the oxygen and secondly to help with pouring presure.

I know a lot is common sense but I have a really bad habit of over thinking and creating uncertainty!!

 

[Paulus]

Hi and thanks
2nd fermentation.. just sorted out the stuck and syphoning off to a 23l keg.

Just couldn't get my head around the heads pace in the keg but read a bit more on here.... so use CO2 to pressure the keg and removing the oxygen, hopefully this won't leak. Keep topping up as the beer gets drunk. Firstly to replace the oxygen and secondly to help with pouring presure.

I know a lot is common sense but I have a really bad habit of over thinking and creating uncertainty!!

If you are doing a 2nd fermentation then yes purge the oxygen from keg no need to pressurise it, add the fermentables, transfer the beer and then leave to ferment following the instructions.



When you think it is ready maybe measure the pressure in the keg before pouring so you know how much to top it off with when you've finished drinking it for the day? Then release the pressure in the keg and connect your CO2 to the keg to help it out of the tap and replenish the CO2 (I find 5 to 10psi is enough though whatever works) as the beer comes out.

I'd recommend chilling your tap before pouring as it helps minimise the beer turning into foam as it comes out.

Sounds like you know what you are doing, it's just practice. I prefer to force carbonate now as it seems to be a bit quicker and you can always adjust it up or down to suit.

 

[Gaz_h]

If you are doing a 2nd fermentation then yes purge the oxygen from keg no need to pressurise it, add the fermentables, transfer the beer and then leave to ferment following the instructions.



When you think it is ready maybe measure the pressure in the keg before pouring so you know how much to top it off with when you've finished drinking it for the day? Then release the pressure in the keg and connect your CO2 to the keg to help it out of the tap and replenish the CO2 (I find 5 to 10psi is enough though whatever works) as the beer comes out.

I'd recommend chilling your tap before pouring as it helps minimise the beer turning into foam as it comes out.

Sounds like you know what you are doing, it's just practice. I prefer to force carbonate now as it seems to be a bit quicker and you can always adjust it up or down to suit.

My CO2 (as not used before) are the little capsules that come with my equipment. I can read the pressure. I'm assuming you, more experienced guys, have a larger cylinder with a pressure gauge or something set up?

 

[Gaz_h]

Thanks for the advice. Stout is now kegged but it wasn't without incident. I transferred to the keg, with a new syphon, which was way better than my original one. All good! Sussed out the CO2 capsule, injected the gas....... and there it was, a leak on the tap! You are kidding me!!