Pressure Fermenting?

[fgoulding]

I have 2 pressure fermenters and to be honest, fermenting under pressure didn't speed up the process for me or did it impact nor improve the taste of my brews.

However, I do sometimes add pressure near the end of a ferment (after dry-hoping) to carbonate the beer.

But the main benefit of my fermenters is having the ability to do closed loop transfers to a keg.

Here in Ireland, we really only have access to KegLand products but Keg King have some really great options too.

Kegland just launched a new tri-clamp fitted fermzilla and a stainless steel version is due out soon. This makes detaching the dump valve much easier than the current version:



It will be interesting to see if the tri-clamp fermzillas are any good. Plus, there will be a slew of add-ons to take your hard earned cash like the hop bong below. Luckily there is an upgraded lid for existing fermzilla users:



Plus, I use the same red spunding valve as shown by @RoomWithABrew but I just ordered a digital display mini gauge to replace the existing dial. It just screws in:


One benefit that a number of forum members talk about, is using pressure fermenters as uni-tanks and serving directly from them - especially if you the ability to cold crash. If that's important, then an FV with a dump valve would be very useful.

 

[foxy]

The gen 3 from KK can adapt to tri clover fittings but it didnt catch on, now the stainless Apollo is on the market it will be enough for those wanting a fermenter with all the TC fittings. Me, I am more than happy with the PET fermenters no harm drinking straight out of them only risk is autolysis but the fermenter would be well emptied before that could kick in.

 

[2Beers]

I use 2 x kegmenters, with 40 psi spunding valves.

I use them to ferment lagers at room temperature. As said earlier, this requires pressure on early in the fermentation. It's the dissolved co2 that suppresses esters and hot alchohol, the pressure is just a means to that end.

I have not used my pressure fermentors for super-hoppy ales yet, I dont drink those. But that is on the cards, I am preparing to do an ale style that uses the pressure more at the end of ferm/transfer next.

 

[RoomWithABrew]

The gen 3 from KK can adapt to tri clover fittings but it didnt catch on, now the stainless Apollo is on the market it will be enough for those wanting a fermenter with all the TC fittings. Me, I am more than happy with the PET fermenters no harm drinking straight out of them only risk is autolysis but the fermenter would be well emptied before that could kick in.

How do I get the tri clamp on my Gen 3? As I stated above the plunger system is hopeless with the pressure applied and I'd like to put a large butterfly valve on. If there was a way to change the butterfly valves on the Gen 1 and 2 I'd be interested to know how to do that, a couple of the valves have deteriorated ( they aren't SS) and also damaged the rubber collar they seal on.
Damm just found out I didn't press post reply, better late than never.

 

[RoomWithABrew]

@2Beers
My " pilsner " chugging away in fermentasaurus at 28 c with opshaug kveik and 30 psi I let it rise to this and hold it there for the ferment and purge of kegs.
It's a bit fiddly getting the finings into the fermenter under pressure but I manage to do this after cold crashing for a day or so and having dropped the yeast out via the collection bottle. Then it's fully carbed, closed transfer, clear beer good to go.

 

[foxy]

How do I get the tri clamp on my Gen 3? As I stated above the plunger system is hopeless with the pressure applied and I'd like to put a large butterfly valve on. If there was a way to change the butterfly valves on the Gen 1 and 2 I'd be interested to know how to do that, a couple of the valves have deteriorated ( they aren't SS) and also damaged the rubber collar they seal on.
Damm just found out I didn't press post reply, better late than never.

Opening anything under pressure can be very messy. It isn't a good idea to open anything even with a small amount of pressure. If you wanted to collect your yeast or dump trub best to release the pressure first. If its for trub dump when it has settled, within an hour or two, for yeast dump at the end. You can get a tri clover elbow and a tri clover s/steel butterfly valve.

 

[RoomWithABrew]

@foxy
I've got a system that works with the gen 1 and 2 for dumping yeast / trub under pressure without painting the walls yeasty.
The gen 3 I can't get the plunger up once I've dumped and it's under pressure hence I'd like to fit a s/steel butterflyvalve but I'm not sure how to fit that on. Is there an adapter or do the threaded butterfly valves with triclover on the other side just screw in to the base of the fermentasaurus where the bottle adapter fits?

 

[foxy]

@foxy
I've got a system that works with the gen 1 and 2 for dumping yeast / trub under pressure without painting the walls yeasty.
The gen 3 I can't get the plunger up once I've dumped and it's under pressure hence I'd like to fit a s/steel butterflyvalve but I'm not sure how to fit that on. Is there an adapter or do the threaded butterfly valves with triclover on the other side just screw in to the base of the fermentasaurus where the bottle adapter fits?

I can't understand why you would want to dump yeast while the fermenter is under pressure? There is just no advantage.
There is an adaptor to screw on to the bottom of the Gen 3, I would have thought it would be part of the kit. Then you can attach a tri-clover fitting and a 90 degree 2 inch elbow, to the elbow you can then attach a s/steel 2 inch butter fly valve and to that another 2 inch tri-clover fitting with either a barb or threaded end.
This is what someone did on the Series 1 Fermentasaurus.

 

[RoomWithABrew]

Magic, thank you I'll hunt down the threaded female to triclover that will screw on the end of the fermentasaurus.

 

[foxy]

Magic, thank you I'll hunt down the threaded female to triclover that will screw on the end of the fermentasaurus.

Would still be interested in knowing why you would want to dump the yeast while under pressure.

 

[RoomWithABrew]

@foxy
If I've fermented at the end say for the last 10 gravity points under pressure the yeast starts to settle. Once ferment is finished and diacetyl rested I drop the yeast out if the container is full and cold crash and any hops that were there from dry hopping. More yeast settles and refills the collection bottle. If it refills and yeast is still in the cone as well then I'll remove that, might add finings but usually don't and then once cold crashing has allowed the beer to clear I do a closed transfer.
I let the collection bottle equalise to atmospheric pressure by loosening it slowly with the butterfly valve closed before removing it so it's not really under more than atmospheric pressure when removed.