pouring your beer

[scoot]

I'm not sure if my ale is over carbed but I do find it a pain pouring it straight into a pint glass. It just turn into mostly head. So now I pour it into a kitchen measuring jug first and let it settle , then pour into a glass.
I do this now with lagers too.
I normally batch prime half a tsp a pint. I just seems to settle nicer and the ale isn't fizzy in the glass.

 

[Fil]

trychilling the beer down and use a polished clean glass pre chilled in the freezer, and gently decant into the glass at a low angle increasing the tilt as the glass fills.
If that has any positive impact it probably was a case of over-conditioning,

with screwcaps its easier to vent off some pressure prior to chilling and servin/pouring, but its also possible with a lil practice to gently start to open a crown cap too releasing only some of the contained pressure..

check your hydrometer grade tube hasnt slipped with a wee shake and test in room temp water where it should read close to 1.000

 

[ExpatBrewer]

Whenever I've had this issue I've measured the FG of the finished beer (once de-gassed) and found in all cases it had attenuated much lower than what the FG was on bottling day. That strongly suggests contamination - most likely from a wild yeast like saccharomyces diastaticus or perhaps brettanomyces.

 

[Cwrw666]

I agree with Expat. Remember, stuff like Starsan doesn't touch wild yeasts.
You're going to need to do some thorough decontamination. Bleach possibly. Boiling water is what I use.
I had this problem which turned out to be just one of my FVs. Upon dismantling the tap I found it positively filthy despite it looking ok when it was all assembled. Cured that.

 

[chthon]

I had the same issue with a couple of brews, and I think it had to do with the effectiveness of my bottle cleaner, a product called P3-gamo HD. This is an alkaline-chlorine cleaner (needs to be rinsed with a metabisulfite solution). However, it seems that it can expire, in that the chlorine component can evaporate. I did not get any bottle bombs or yucky beer, but a couple of brews, which I had primed to relatively low levels (2.0 to 2.2 volumes) developed much more head than expected. Since then I add now a little bit of bleach to my solution, and it seems that it definitely helps.

Everybody is always talking about brett and other contaminations, but it seems that it is possible to get a minor contamination in the bottles, which does not (notably) influence the quality of the beer, but does convert dextrins into fermentable sugars.

 

[AdeDunn]

In addition to the advice given already, I'd suggest measuring your priming sugar by weight rather than fractions of a teaspoon too, it's much more accurate.

 

[ExpatBrewer]

I agree with Expat. Remember, stuff like Starsan doesn't touch wild yeasts.
You're going to need to do some thorough decontamination. Bleach possibly. Boiling water is what I use.
I had this problem which turned out to be just one of my FVs. Upon dismantling the tap I found it positively filthy despite it looking ok when it was all assembled. Cured that.

Yup... I think contaminated taps were responsible for my regular over-carbonated brews. I now not only boil the taps but also nuke them with diluted bleach just to be doubly sure. Haven't had a problem since.

 

[scoot]

Thanks. I will definitely spend a bit more time on cleaning.
Nothing has ever tasted bad though, on the contrary all but one has been delicious.
Also will weigh the sugar rather than adding half a tsp.

 

[Graz]

All that said I'm having the same issue with a Cwtch kit that I made which I deliberately added some extra priming sugar to as I'd decided (bad idea!) that I wanted it to be a bit more fizzy. It tastes fine and now I just pour it into a 1L jug which fills with froth, let it settle down then pour into a glass. I keep my bottles in my keg fridge at about 6°C but it still won't pour sensibly.

 

[Sadfield]

I agree with Expat. Remember, stuff like Starsan doesn't touch wild yeasts.
You're going to need to do some thorough decontamination. Bleach possibly. Boiling water is what I use.
I had this problem which turned out to be just one of my FVs. Upon dismantling the tap I found it positively filthy despite it looking ok when it was all assembled. Cured that.

I'm not sure that's true, to be honest. As long as you clean your kit properly before sanitising, Starsan does a great job on Brettanomyces and Saccharomyces Diastaticus. Many homebrewers use Starsan yet don't get contamination from Brettanomyces cultures or Belle Saison when used.

From another forum.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

 

[ExpatBrewer]

I'm not sure that's true, to be honest. As long as you clean your kit properly before sanitising, Starsan does a great job on Brettanomyces and Saccharomyces Diastaticus. Many homebrewers use Starsan yet don't get contamination from Brettanomyces cultures or Belle Saison when used.

From another forum.

View attachment 13605

It's hottly debated for sure, but after some more digging I'm starting to agree - Starsan can and does kill off yeast. So, if that is indeed true then in my case it must be that for whatever reason starsan was not penetrating into my taps' inner workings. I suspect now that it was the heat from boiling water that actually sanitised them and it seems this is still a good strategy regardless.

:thumb: