Off flavours... where am I going wrong?

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TheRtHonorable

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Jan 3, 2013
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Location
Birmingham
Hey guys,

Sorry if this is a long post, but I'm having problems with off flavours having moved from kits to BIAB, and having done two AG brews.

I've just bottled AG#2 tonight, after 11 days in the FV.

Both brews were Bathams Bitter clones; after the first one went wrong I decided to stick to the recipe and get the beer tasting right before moving on. The first attempt tasted a bit odd while sampling it from the FV on the way along,and after bottling and conditioning, it has a very odd taste. I can't decide if it's astringency or sourness. The FV did get up to 26C though at one point, before I read that it should really be a fair bit cooler.

For the first brew, I used my 50L stainless pan on a gas stove, and the boil wasn't that strong. Hops were in a hop bag, and there was no hop strainer so all the break material went into the FV. I squeezed the grain bag quite a lot, and the OG was around 1.054 if memory serves... It fermented down to 1.012, and it was pretty cloudy going into the bottles. It still hasnt cleared that well!

So, I decided to make some changes for AG#2. I fitted two 2750w elements to the boiler, and added a braided tube as a hop strainer. Hops went straight into the boil, and irish moss went in towards the end. The wort was really clear into the fermenter, with OG 1.044. It fermented for 11 days at around 20C, down again to 1.012. I tasted it at four days into fermentation when it was around 1.020, and it tasted fantastic, nice and hoppy.

Basically, both brews had the same taste/aroma, with it less obvious in the second one, although its only just been bottled. I don't know if it's down to less break material in the second one, or lower fermentation temperature.

I did notice that the trub left over for AG#2 smelled really strongly of the off flavours I'm getting. It smelled really alcoholic, and not in a good way. Perhaps I should rack the beer off the trub next time into a secondary, maybe after 4 or 5 days?

I really had hoped that my AG brews would be much better than kits, so I'm rather disappointed and I've thrown a fair bit of money into this. I'm actually considering buying another kit just to have some beer to drink while I work this out!

Any advice would be much appreciated!

Cheers,

Chris
 
Never squeeze your bag. That way lies tannins in your beer which gives you unpleasant astringent bitterness. Only ever let your bag drain naturally.
 
calumscott said:
Never squeeze your bag. That way lies
...............blindness :lol:

No seriously, I'm new to this but I have read this advice several times 'Never squeeze your bag'.
 
Hi

I disagree with this don't squeeze your bag thing. I do it all the time and have never detected any tannins. I believe it to be a common myth that no one has actually tested?

If your a BIABer you should really check out BIABrewer.info its a great community of people who are focused on debunking myth and misinformation around brewing.

Balli.
 
nobyipa said:
hello
so what is your yeast fermentation temperature
water treatment
and mashing regime


Yeast was Gervin GV 12 for the first brew, Safale S04 for the second.

The FV sits in an upstairs cupboard which is a steady 20C at this time of year, going by the aquarium-style temperature sticker on my FV. For the first brew though, it did get a fair bit hotter, up to 26 I think. I'd always thought when doing kits that warmer was better,and fermented them all at about 24C to 26C, and never had any problems, but then I guess the kits are well filtered during production.

Water treatment is just a campden tablet, I live in Birmingham with soft water.

Mashing regime is BIAB, 4.5kg of Maris Otter mashed in 35L of water for 90mins at 66.7C, with temp raised up to 75C for the last 10 mins.

nobyipa said:
could be oxidation when you bottle cask rack or whatever
whats your method?

I do it just as I did with kits, which was never a problem... I leave it in the FV for two weeks, then rack it into another bucket with the priming sugar. I then bottle in 2L plastic bottles, purely because they're cheap!

I don't think it's the bottling to be honest, because the second brew tasted bad last night while bottling.

balli1990 said:
I disagree with this don't squeeze your bag thing. I do it all the time and have never detected any tannins. I believe it to be a common myth that no one has actually tested?

I have read conflicting advice on this one. for the first brew I squeezed, and efficiency was really high. For the second one, I just let the bag spin around above the pot to help some of the water out, nothing more. I did let it drain in another bucket, but what came out looked really cloudy so it just went down the sink.
 
balli1990 said:
Hi

I disagree with this don't squeeze your bag thing. I do it all the time and have never detected any tannins. I believe it to be a common myth that no one has actually tested?

If your a BIABer you should really check out BIABrewer.info its a great community of people who are focused on debunking myth and misinformation around brewing.

Balli.

I did but tbh I found it a dry and dull. The basic hypothesis is god enough for me, 3v doesn't compress the mash, just runs liquor through. Not squeezing is making me awesome beer. Why would I start squeezing?
 
Sorry Callumscott I think you misunderstood my point.

I'm not suggesting you should squeeze. Just wanted to point out that tanning won't be extracted if you do. I squeeze simply to speed up the draining process. Also I'm in no way suggesting squeezing can give you a better beer or increase your mash efficiency.
 
balli1990 said:
Sorry Callumscott I think you misunderstood my point.

I didn't. You squeeze and haven't noticed anything, I don't squeeze and I'm very happy with my results.

Squeezing WILL get you more wort out and thereby will increase your efficiency. I brew 40l BIABs so my process is to pull the bag up as best I can and get it drained to the point where I think I can handle it. Then it gets dumped into a FV with a clever colander "hourglass" arrangement to run off the rest of the wort. This happens while I'm coming up to the boil. I don't bother with anything beyond the that time.

When I'm clearing up, there is usually a good half gallon of wort left (actually I should keep this and freeze it for yeast starters but I'm lazy...) and the bag is still pretty wet, I've never tried squeezing at this point but I reckon there would be another half gallon.

But, when there is a theoretical risk of that tainting my beer am I going to risk £20 odd quid of ingredients and a day of my time for what? An extra 6 bottles at the end of the process? Nope.

But your point is valid, I don't believe anyone has actually tested the tannins in a squeezed Vs unsqueezed wort. Until it is done I will continue to discard, you will continue to squeeze, the debate will rage on with the hypothesis Vs "there's no data" arguments we all get a bit bored and have a beer... :thumb:
 
Oh, and I'd best clarify my comment about BIABrewer... I'm not anti BIABrewer in anyway. I just found it dull because what interests me is all the other stuff, people's 3v systems, cider making, wine, yadda, yadda...

BIAB for me is a technique to produce the end product, beer. I'm more interested in the beer than the technique, where BIABrewer can be VERY insular around the minutia of the BIAB brewing process and kit. I got bored quite quickly...
 
I squeeze a little, then sparge with 6l @ 75-80C, then squeeze again. I'm happy with my beer. I get very high efficiency this way. Grain is cheap enough, though. If you don't fancy squeezing then just add more grain.
I've long laboured under the belief that tannin extraction is caused by high mashout temperatures. I heat to 75C but don't hold it there for any time. I also stir fairly continuously during mashout to avoid hot spots forming in the mash, which could release tannins.
 
I would of said your mash ph was too high but you mention soft water , you do need to look at water treatment though as it has a huge impact . Murphys lab will test your water for around £18
 
Alternatively of you aren't ready to start treating your water..., use tesco ashbeck or asda smart price water. PH is in the right range. It is good for most styles.

It gives you piece of mind that you are using good water and saves you treating anything. It is also useful as the water is easy to measure !
 

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