Newby questions about levels of yeast in bottles

[gmc]

Hi all,

I have made my first few batches of beer and generally I am pleased with the results. I am fermenting in a primary fermenter and then bottle conditioning. I want to have less yeast in the bottles in the next batches as they can taste a bit yeasty. I am going to leave more beer in the bottom on the primary fermenter when I transfer to my bottling vessel to reduce the amount of yeast transfered.

My question is, is it possible to transfer too little yeast over and affect the bottle conditioning and carbonation or is there generally always enough yeast suspended in the beer regardless of how much you leave behind at the bottom of the primary fermenter?

Thanks for any help you can provide,

Gordon

 

[AnimatedGIF]

Hi Gordon,
How long was it in the fermentation vessel for? If you are brewing a kit(?) and following the instructions, it may be that the yeast hasn't had time to drop out and so is transferred to your bottling bucket. I generally ignore the instructions with respect to timings. Most of mine stay in the FV at least 3 weeks, just because I am usually busy by the time I get consistent consecutive gravity readings. As such, I end up with little yeast in the bottle. Bear in mind with less yeast it may take longer to carbonate, but as long as you're patient, it'll be fine.
EDIT: I just re-read your post and I realise you may not use a bottle bucket. That's not a problem though.

 

[gmc]

I am currently using kits and I am also using a bottling bucket. My current schedule is 3 weeks in primary, 3 weeks in the bottle. I am considering increasing both of those to 4. My last batch was 10 weeks in primary because of unforseen circumstances, but that is currently bottle conditioning and not something I am planning on repeating! My bottles have a very solid disk of yeast and when I pour it takes over 1 inch left behind in the bottle or I get a very yeasty taste

 

[AnimatedGIF]

That sounds like quite a lot of yeast. I must admit I have limited experience so I am out of ideas I am afraid. Hopefully someone with experience will help shortly.
Where are the bottles kept for the three weeks? I do a couple o weeks warm then 2+ weeks cool.

 

[Drunkula]

What kits are they, and do they have a branded yeast? 3 weeks in primary is more than enough. You could take it after 2 weeks and get is as cold as you can because that'll make the yeast fall out - google "cold crashing".

 

[terrym]

Similar thread two days ago. Wot I said in that...
"A thick layer of yeast on the bottom of a homebrew bottle usually means its been bottled too early.
So when the primary fermentation has well and truly done, typically 7-10 days although it can be longer or shorter, move your beer to the coolest place you have and leave it for a few days longer. At the end of this period it should be almost clear but will still have enough yeast to carb up your beer, it might take a little longer that's all. Using a flocculant yeast like GV12 /Notty will help too. And I sometimes rack off into a second FV towards the end of the primary and I find this can also help clear the beer."

 

[gmc]

Thanks for all the info. I am not familiar with cold crashing. I don't think I have the facilities to do that in summer, but in winter, I can certainly make use of the garage.

I am using the yeast that comes with the kits. I have done a couple of Young's and a couple of Festival kits. I am thinking the next step to uping my brewing is to choose my own yeast and become a bit more versed in yeast types

 

[An Ankoù]

My question is, is it possible to transfer too little yeast over and affect the bottle conditioning and carbonation or is there generally always enough yeast suspended in the beer regardless of how much you leave behind at the bottom of the primary fermenter?

Yes and no. More towards the no. A bottle will always carbonate if you're prepared to wait long enough, unless the yeast is dead. It may be dead or dormant because the yeast cannot tolerate the alcohol level it has already produced. If you wait until the beer is clear before bottling, there's still enough yeast in suspension to complete the job, but I've had to wait around six months for some beers to carbonate, especially my Duvel-Citra clone, which has taken about 5 months to be ready on each of three occasions.
One solution is to get a pack of Fermentis Safale F-2, it comes in a larger pack than usual and you only need a pinch, but I would follow the rehydration instructions to the letter. I've got a pack, but I haven't got round to using it yet as Voss isolate beers carbonate and clear quickly without that and it's too warm to use much else, but I'll be trying it out on my next Duvel and I have the highest expectations as this is specifically a bottling yeast.

 

[gmc]

Thank you all for the very helpful information and suggestions. Next batch will take a slightly approach after making a few changes.

Cheers