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I would be looking at the 30 minute boil as the culprit, did you check your boil pH?
If your boil pH is out you will be able to tell as you start the boil the hot break should be floating around in large clumps, if the hot break is just tiny particles or dirty looking its a sign of your pH being too high. When you say you don't use fining's you do use kettle fining's, I presume you do looking at the clarity of the wort in the kettle. Do you cold crash, -1 or -2 C for a couple of days should clear the beer without fining's.I don't believe so - I had this problem even when I used to do 60-70 minute boils.
(But I could check again, it's not really hard!)
I check mash pH but not boil - what's the significance of the latter?
Edit: Actually, while I'm asking, why do you suspect a 30 min boil @foxy ?
Thanks @foxy - from what you say I think my hot break is ok. I use half a protofloc tablet ( irish moss) 15 mins before end of boil. I sometimes cold crash (depends on the beer) but not lower that probably 2-4degC as I don't have proper temperature control. Thanks for the tips.If your boil pH is out you will be able to tell as you start the boil the hot break should be floating around in large clumps, if the hot break is just tiny particles or dirty looking its a sign of your pH being too high. When you say you don't use fining's you do use kettle fining's, I presume you do looking at the clarity of the wort in the kettle. Do you cold crash, -1 or -2 C for a couple of days should clear the beer without fining's.
Yeah but that's precisely the point.....
You fine your beers (and very handsome they look too I might add) and I don't*.....
I've tried everything else I can think of including radically altering my brewing process with limited success regarding chill haze - crystal clear at room temp and virtually no sediment in the bottles (which is a very worthwhile achievement IMHO) but hazy once it's chilled.
So omitting FB is just the next step in a process of elimination. We'll see in a few weeks.
(* Actually I did add some Harris Startbrite finings to my Golden Ale in the FV yesterday - haven't used it before, will also be interesting to see what that does)
Negative - I DO chill rapidly (this time of year 5 mins to 20degC). It's just that I then let the crud settle out before draining the wort to the FV. So my process is different to yours.You'll always get chill have if you leave your beer for 2-3 hours to let the trub settle out. You're getting a hot break when you do the boil but you're not getting a cold break from rapid chilling, therefore you'll get chill haze because you've still got lots of proteins in the beer*
*basically this is all my fault for telling you about my technique for getting minimal trub in the FV
15 mins may be a bit long and might denature the carageenan. Hard data is difficult to find on this subject but what I can find indicates that between 10 and 5 mins is good (ref). I add at 7 mins which just happens to not clash with when I'm busy adding hops.I use half a protofloc tablet ( irish moss) 15 mins before end of boil.
Negative - I DO chill rapidly (this time of year 5 mins to 20degC). It's just that I then let the crud settle out before draining the wort to the FV. So my process is different to yours.
But FWIW, it's still all your fault because you told me about flaked barley!
Well, something is fermenting it.AG#34 Czech Pilsner
Finally! Finally it seems to be fermenting!
Heehee I think that FV had 1728 in in previously for my pseudo Helles, so not the worst thing even if it is residual yeast!Well, something is fermenting it.
Only joking, a couple of days lag at 10C is normal according to White Labs. I normally have to wait a day or two for any significant activity at those temperatures even with big starters of fresh yeast.
You're correct, pitching warm then cooler is likely to reduce lag time but risks esters or stalling the yeast if you chill too aggressively. You're beers all sound really tasty.Ibalways thought your supposed to chill and then pitch to avoid esters during initial fermentation - shows what I know!
AG#35 Chinook APA
Rebrew of AG#19, slightly different grist and should end up with slightly lower ABV. This is basically my Munich Helles grist (plus using up a little Golden Promise) which I'm liking in general at the moment, and actually isn't so different from what I did originally.
250g Golden Promise
2000g Lager malt
200g Vienna
50g Victory malt
15L tap water
0.5 Campden tablet, 2g gypsum, 15ml CRS
Full-volume no-sparge mash. Would have done 30mins but ended up mashing for 75mins due to dad duties!
30 min boil:
10g Chinook 30mins
10g Chinook 10mins
13g Chinook 5mins
15g Chinook 0mins (chilled to 70degC and steeped for 10 mins before filing to 20degC)
Left to settle for 2 hours
Drew off 9.25L clear wort to FV, plus collected approx 3L trub in bottle to settle out.
Pitched Mangrove Jack M44.
OG 1.046, 38 IBUs, should end up about 4.9% which will do me nicely
Here's the original recipe I used for AG#19:Sounds nice that matt, may copy this recipe, I've got some lager and vienna malt kicking about. Might add some late citra or dry hop it as well.
I think both are good - in a hoppy beer I think the malt is more in the background. So you don't really notice it but if you did a back to back maybe you'd be able to tell the difference???Think I prefer your second recipe over the first. Which do you think you'll be more happy with?
Me too with the IPA, my recent 'welsh doom' IPA had chocolate and crystal in it which to be honest, im not sure about. It's quite brown too which doesn't seem right.
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