Inkbird 308 controller use for mash?

[MashBag]

The issue is not necessarily the inkbird.
I honesty believe you don't want 2700w for mash temp maint. Brewing controllers scale the power, I believe an inkbird is on or off and this is the problem.

Or put another way. Yes the inkbird will melt it you don't couple it with a power controller and the temperature accuracy will be pants. The inkbird will be switching like fury and get hot. Not the inkbird fault but the config.

Done it, shrunk the teashirt, eat the pie etc.

 

[Galena]

Tbh I don't get the Inkbird Ipb-16s? Isn't it just a 308 with a pump switch and a heater switch? Is it programmable?

To get an understanding I suggest you watch THIS it's probably the best explanation on how to set one up and is almost exactly the same as the IPB16-s

 

[Galena]

@Galena has been doing the "Lemming" bit and trying them okay at 230V, but Inkbird haven't released the ones with UK plugs and sockets yet? So, they may still need a "Lemming" approach to set them up.

Not at all, in fact several members on this forum use/have used them, just do a search. I believe @chopps is one of the past users and I took advice off another user on this forum who uses the same.

 

[peebee]

What a lot to answer! Better get on with it:

Tbh I don't get the Inkbird Ipb-16s? Isn't it just a 308 with a pump switch and a heater switch? Is it programmable?

As I first pointed out - it uses PID algorithms. Most thermostat controllers simply switch on the heat when the temperature drops to a preset level, and switches it off when temp. reaches the upper preset level. The problem with this is the temperature can pass the preset level (thermal inertia) by an amount depending on the environment. "PID" algorithms start switching off the heat for short periods as the temp. gets closer, increasing the period as it gets closer and closer. i.e. no overshoot.

What does the "algorithm" do then?

As I've said above! They are software routines that dictate the functionality. And can get quite mathematically complicated (the word "PID" is made up of initials for the major mathematical functions used). The simpler form is "PI", it's what I use (by setting "D" to a disabled setting). The "D" makes the algorithm react rapidly to very fast changes. Used for things like car brakes. There's nothing "fast" about home brewing temp. changes (fast can be milli-seconds).

The 308 is sound, just don't overload it (especially when you don't need to).

Much better all round use a power controller. It just adds a
' knob' like the one on your kitchen stove.

You don't need (or want) 2700w to MAINTAIN 66c.

You don't simmer if full power do you?

Don't overload it? So, you believe what the manufacturer is saying about the items load ratings? That's the problem, you've no choice but to believe what they tell you. You've no reason to believe what I say. Not my problem! It is a problem that someone here with the authority to tell you ... isn't!

(I'm told dinner is ready ... must go).

 

[MashBag]

Don't overload it clearly translates to "I don't beleive"

 

[chopps]

Not at all, in fact several members on this forum use/have used them, just do a search. I believe @chopps is one of the past users and I took advice off another user on this forum who uses the same.

Correct. Unless Inkbird changed the design in a newer version, it will work in the UK.
It's not approved, not CE/UKCA marked and you need to use the US NEMA power output connectors, or find something to replace them with. And you will have to cut off the US style RCD/GFCI and use it on an RCD protected circuit. So a bit of fiddling and I'm sure if you break it Inkbird would leave you stranded. Other than that it's a great device and served me well for a few years now with a 2.5KW element and magnetic pump.

You might get away with a 308 but having seen the very very low cost relays in there, I wouldn't want to be switching 2.4KW+ with it directly, personally. You can buy the US version of the iPB-16s from the Inkbird store, and they will ask if you REALLY want it as it's not suitable for the UK. If you do, and you tell them, they will send it. At least they did for me.
ps: The IPB16S has a solid state relay for about 40A (from memory) although the wiring and other components are designed for much less current - like 12A max at 230V ish

 

[hoppyscotty]

Or make our own PID controller. Component parts are cheap enough and it’s a simple case of wiring a few component together so no specialist electrics knowledge needed.

 

[MashBag]

I do think the best £10 you can spend is a plug in energy monitor. It is the only way to see what is really going on.

... And you can use it to set specific and accurate wattage if you are using a power controller.

 

[MashBag]

Or make our own PID controller. Component parts are cheap enough and it’s a simple case of wiring a few component together so no specialist electrics knowledge needed.

I agree, but I am surprised by how many people can't even wire a plug these days

 

[peebee]

... (I'm told dinner is ready ... must go).

Okay. Fed, slept, ready to go again. Now where was I ...

The trouble with writing these long-winded replies, is people write replies before you and you don't notice. @Galena included a link which should have scuppered my reply. Fortunately (for me) the guy was a bit longwinded despite arguing the contrary! And he wasn't speaking generically, which (with so many of these devices about) could be a tad confusing. How do I know? 'Cos I'm trying hard to stop doing it myself!

"You don't need (or want) 2700w to MAINTAIN 66c." wrote @MashBag. True, but 2700W gets you to 66°C much quicker (I use 6KW!) and at a boil most PID controllers can then be switched to "manual", and its output controlled by percentage ... if you want to; I do, though many are not even aware of the function. While a big "knob" is easier to understand, they are not very efficient. Microprocessor controlled goods certainly have advantages over more mechanical (big "knob") ones, hence the explosion of efficient countertop "pot" devices to replace ovens, pressure cookers, deep friers, etc. (things I'm sold on ... okay, so I've two "Instantpot" devices in regular use; I'm not just "sold" on 'em, I'm fanatical about them ... and if that sounds "off-subject", I bought the first because I had this hair-brained idea - and a stupid one as it turned out - to caramelise Golden Syrup for beer brewing!).

 

[peebee]

I agree, but I am surprised by how many people can't even wire a plug these days

Careful! That might be taken as "not PC". I can't even wire a plug most days! But that has nothing to do with whether I know how to wire a plug.

 

[MashBag]

Good point. How's this?

I agree, but I am surprised by how many people can't even wire a PC these days

 

[MashBag]

As the title says I can get a new Inkbird 308 on offer for £17.99.
Now I want to use it for my mash/mash out control as in a previous thread some of you may remember my bonded element has gon on my AIO and I have replaced it with a Peco heating element.
It is working really well the only downside is the mash control which has to be done manually - so having to flick the heater on and off a couple of times to keep a reasonably constant temp.
So I have wondered if it would be possible to use the Inkbird 308 which says it controls upto 2400w which is the power of my Peco element also is the temp probe ok in mash temps?
If you could throw some yays or nays before I order
TIA

Just double checking your OP. Missed the probe bit. I would pop that in a thermo well.

So the shopping list is..
Inkbird, power controller and a thermowell.
A lot lot cheaper that a brew controller.
Like you say inkbird is for mash (only). I would set about 350w for maintaining 66c.

I don't know where abouts you are, but if you want a few bits to play with before ordering pm me.