Further itc1000vl wiring question

[Sbond10]

I was sat last night in pub (dont all good ideas start in the pub )

With me wanting to send a 240v supply to an element via the pid but the pid only taking 12-24v. This would mean id need two plug feeding into the box. Could i use this to step the 240v down so id only need one.

item35b629e96b:g:WtQAAOSwLq5aqAwS


So id have 240v coming in from left onto a lego brick connecter then as it comes back out id send one live to the ssr and a seperate one to the transformer. Id do same with neutral but instead of ssr id go direct to the plug socket. The earth would come in and go out

Would this work ?

Thanks in advance

 

[Fil]

your link is dead but the idea is sound enough, just be mindful of total power draw if using 13a plugs/sockets and are employing 3kw+ elements..

But you would NEED to supply with the input live and neutral. add a 2nd lego rick if necessary..

 

[Bigcol49]

Hi @Sbond10
I didn't fully follow your explanation - senior moment!
My Inkbird PID has a 240v AC input and a 12 - 24v output.
The ITC 1000 is an AC mains feed and AC mains output.
Could you expand on your idea.

 

[Drunkula]

Sbond - I understand what you're saying and it sounds right. The thing you're linking to is a 24v LED driver. I've found the PID will run all the way down to 4.5 volts even though it says minium is 12. I've got the RL and if the relay triggers at 4.5 volts it's not enough to power it, but it does at 6v. Even feeding 6v in gets nearly 12 volts to the relay trigger, and I reckon as you've got the VL version it could still power an SSR even if you were running from a 5v phone charger.

That LED driver is still a good choice.

I've done loads of tests on it and it doesn't say it but don't go straight to auto tuning from manual mode - it doesn't work even though it looks like it is. And when you go to manual mode you can use the up and down buttons to set the output - it doesn't even say that in the manual.

The differential alarms dHAL and dLAL are related to how far away they are from the target temperature and are completely independent of the absolute ones. They still add/subtract the hysteresis value like the main alarms.

If you set oP1 to 2 the alarm relay triggers alongside the main output so you lose the ability to use the relay and it just becomes visual, like alarm 2 is as they don't have the relay for that on our boxes.

http://auberins.com/images/Manual/Manual version 3.4.pdf That manual is so similar but might help a bit more.

 

[Sbond10]

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/LED-Driver...397326&hash=item35b629e96b:g:WtQAAOSwLq5aqAwS

Does that link work ?

These were the pids inkbird was giving away hence the need to put
a seperate power supply in.

Fil its going to be a 1.8kw element

Drunkula my eyes just glazed over ive never used a pid before

 

[Drunkula]

my eyes just glazed over ive never used a pid before

Nor me, but I've been messing about with it by putting the temperature probe into the head of a torch and getting it to hit certain temperatures. I'm hoping I can put PID tuning into stupidly easy terms eventually but the auto tuning has been ok. Don't worry about it - you can run it just like a thermostat / STC-1000 if you have to.

I ordered some SSRs last night so I can really get to melting the electrics in a few weeks.

 

[Sbond10]

Ive seen a 6 quid ssr and heat sink co.bo might go for that

Did that second link work as it says it delivers a 12v 1 amp current.

Next question is project box ive considered using a cheap tool box

 

[Drunkula]

Did that second link work

Yeah, it works. I'll probably hack apart a phone charger and put it in the pid box when I make it into a unit. I've already got some jacks and sockets for the temperature probes and I've ordered a few more probes so I can just leave them attached to things. I'll have to put tags on them with the calibration offset.

 

[Sbond10]

Yea i could buy a phone charger cheaper but using this means i only need one feed in wire i hope

 

[Fil]

if thats a constant current led driver the 1000ma it could push out could fry your controller, a more traditional transformer as found inside most plug in dc adaptors might be a safer bet.

if your boxing then you can crack open a spare phone charger and cobble it together inside an enclosure hot glue and knots in flex make poormans cable glands/strain relief

sounded like you were considering wiring it from the 2 ends of the live connection that will bridge the ssr?

That would be a bad idea as your element will be inline and will start to draw current through the transformer even when 'off'

 

[Fil]

ideal candidates for dc transformers are any eu, us, or other forigien standard adaptors shipped with stuff that you never use..

 

[Sbond10]

No the live feed for the 12-24v supply will in two forms one for the ssr and one for the driver but as you say it will probs cook the pid

Back to the drawing board i guess