Fermenting fridge help

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Daddynoob

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Am I doing ok on a fermenting fridge as it’s the first time doing one
Any pointers would be great
I might put the bottles in the bottom to carbonate on a heat pad as I can’t seem to get the right amount of sugar to carbonate in a PB as it’s always flat
 

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Looks OK to me. My temperature probe is stuck to the fridge side wall but I guess attaching it to the FV will be more accurate. I don’t understand why you want to carbonate your bottles on a heat mat when you’ve got a heater in your fridge? Also your carbonation or lack of in a PB might indicate a leak in your valve in the cap. I use about 3 ounces of white sugar dissolved in half pint of boiling water for a 5 gallon brew and that works fine. I suggest you have a look at Hazelwood brewery’s post in the “How To” section on pressure barrels, might help if you have leaks.
 
PB,s are only for low carb beer I found out they only suit stouts or bitters
Pity they are great idea itherwise
 
Looks a lot better level carbonation that I ever got how do u carb it
5 ounces of white sugar in 10 fluid ounces of boiling water added at transfer to my King Keg. Left to carb for 2 weeks in fermentation fridge set at 20C or until pressure stops increasing. Condition at 10C for 2-4 weeks keeping pressure around the 10 psi mark.
 
5 ounces of white sugar in 10 fluid ounces of boiling water added at transfer to my King Keg. Left to carb for 2 weeks in fermentation fridge set at 20C or until pressure stops increasing. Condition at 10C for 2-4 weeks keeping pressure around the 10 psi mark.
3 attempts got me flat beer with a lovely creamy head started at 80 g sugar to 100 then 120
Then bought corny kegs and made a kegerator couldn't take it any more lol
 
I would recommend taping either a sponge cloth or something to the side of your FV forming a bit of a pocket you can slide your probe into, it should be more accurate and give the fridge less work to do coping with any fluctuations.
 
Do you know what pressure your barrel was maintaining?
No had no way to check just read all the bad reviews and gave up on them honestly thought they were a great idea but drank flat beer for a few weeks and said no more sold em
 
No had no way to check just read all the bad reviews and gave up on them honestly thought they were a great idea but drank flat beer for a few weeks and said no more sold em
Yes, I always think it’s strange that PBs are not fitted with a pressure gauge. First thing I did when I got mine. Cornys are the safe way to go. I was put off initially by the initial investment but have ended up investing in regulator and CO2 cylinder and upgrading my KKs with corny posts etc. :laugh8:
 
I find temp sensor taped to side of fermenter as you show works well for me. I prefer a brew belt rather than the rod heater type as the belt is indirect contact with the fermenter. If using a rod heater then I'd replace the glass with a 3mm aluminium sheet with ~25mm holes drilled to allow air flow. I would support it entirely off the base of the fridge because the plastic ridges aren't totally reliable for high load (size to fit a shelf slot but just make sure that there are side & middle supports which take the load. Finally I'd get shot of your plastic fermenter and get a stainless steel one.
... but there is more than one way to skin a cat, I'm sure your set up will work fine. You can address any actual issues which arise over time.
 
That's exactly why I prefer a tube heater. It avoids the localised "hot" spots that you would get with a belt or a mat.
These heaters are all about 60W, any idea of a 'hot spot' is a bit of a joke. Also natural convection currents will distribute any such low grade heat. But they all work and it makes no real difference in the end.
 
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Have also seen some people up small PC cooling fans in to help ensure air is circulated well. There isn't alot of free volume around the fermentor for effective convection especially if the tube heater is under a shelf even if it has holes in it, so having some PC cooling fans to ensure air circulation seems like a good idea to me. I suspect you'd connect them to the heating circuit so they come on when the tube heater is on.
 
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