It's a bit like saying if we all needed to buy petrol at the same time there's not enough pumps/petrol available, which is also true.
And we've seen that happen a few times
It's a bit like saying if we all needed to buy petrol at the same time there's not enough pumps/petrol available, which is also true.
Perhaps the overall cost is being reduced, not just the battery. Perhaps more government initiatives to assist?Not sure halving the cost of a $7000 component on a $50,000 car will have any impact on the selling price of the car. Especially since what is likely to happen is larger and more expensive batteries will be fitted now to get more range, which is peoples main bugbear with BEV's, thus completely negating the cost savings. Its the computer processor paradox...you never actually feel an improvement in the speed of your computer with ever improving and faster processors as software out develops it and soaks up all the performance advantage so you end up with a more expensive computer and more expensive software.
its not just price its charging network, if we all switched tomorrow the grid would not be able to cope.
Even if we all switched to EVs overnight, we estimate demand would only increase by around 10%. So we’d still be using less power as a nation than we did in 2002, and this is well within the range the grid can capably handle."
I think on average the grid could cope.If we all switched to EV and all plugged in at 7am tomorrow morning I can imagine there would be a problem, this subiect has been brought up several times in the thread and as take up of EV gets higher it has been shown there will be plenty of electricity to charge them.
Edit to add - I see Jocky has already covered this.
But we're not going to switch tomorrow, any more than we are going to switch to running cars on Irn Bru.its not just price its charging network, if we all switched tomorrow the grid would not be able to cope.
It is a fact that EV fires are harder to extinguish compared to ice fires. Will new techniques be developed to reduce this impact? Hopefully. I recall it was a JLR vehicle form the pics that went up. So if you see a Range Rover parked next to an EV Regardless of what started the fire the impact will be greater if ev's with particular battery chemistries combust. And the lidl/happy shopper car park was a great example of a cost saving / rake in the money design. Ev's are heavier per equivalent ice so extra structural load leading to reduced time to fail - call me old school but more concrete required. Until safer battery chemistries lower weight vehicles are deployed the risks to the public will increase.https://www.independent.co.uk/travel/news-and-advice/luton-airport-fire-car-park-cause-b2517206.html
TLDR
The report also concluded that the car had a diesel engine, and stated that ‘it was not a mild hybrid, plug-in hybrid or electric vehicle’, quashing widespread internet claims that the blaze was started by a battery-powered model.
And most people don't need a charging network - 90% of cars never do more than 200 miles in a day, and 70% of households have access to off-road parking where they could charge overnight
interesting point you make about charging chippy. my son & I had new HTC phones at the same time. mine lasted 3.5 years his 18 months. I topped up most of the time he went from full to dead. we used the phones in those days much less than today as android was not that good then.I think a lot of people mistakenly think you charge an EV the same as you do a phone, for high milage drivers a nightly charge will be required for the other 90% a charge when the battery is getting low will suffice, if I owned an EV this would be once a week (probably less) as I rarely do more than 200 miles a week.
interesting point you make about charging chippy. my son & I had new HTC phones at the same time. mine lasted 3.5 years his 18 months. I topped up most of the time he went from full to dead. we used the phones in those days much less than today as android was not that good then.
80-20% charge is recommended for the battery type used in lots of cars. In an ideal world the car bms would stop you from going outside of this. But it's not obvious when acquiring a new ev (unless is in the owners guide that doesn't get read- but then it could be too late) , sort of similar to belt in oil on ICE cars.
if a car had in the specs battery size 30KW , usable size 18KW it would not sell. So as a manufacturer I would either.... oversize the battery but only quote 20-80 and let the bms stop going outside the healthy charge rate for the battery OR, put a warning and let the user decide to override with the consequence of reduced longevity. At least when buying Computer storage the actual size in MB is not too much more than the usable formatted size.
So when buying an ev secondhand how do you know the battery has been looked after or abused previously. I wonder if there are state of battery reports you can get done for second hand ev's?
I guess your sons use was slightly more than yours. Also what do you mean by lasted, did batteries on both phones die? I have never had a phone battery die, its usually software getting outdated that becomes the issueinteresting point you make about charging chippy. my son & I had new HTC phones at the I guess your sons use was slightly more than yours.same time. mine lasted 3.5 years his 18 months. I topped up most of the time he went from full to dead. we used the phones in those days much less than today as android was not that good then.
80-20% charge is recommended for the battery type used in lots of cars. In an ideal world the car bms would stop you from going outside of this. But it's not obvious when acquiring a new ev (unless is in the owners guide that doesn't get read- but then it could be too late) , sort of similar to belt in oil on ICE cars.
if a car had in the specs battery size 30KW , usable size 18KW it would not sell. So as a manufacturer I would either.... oversize the battery but only quote 20-80 and let the bms stop going outside the healthy charge rate for the battery OR, put a warning and let the user decide to override with the consequence of reduced longevity. At least when buying Computer storage the actual size in MB is not too much more than the usable formatted size.
So when buying an ev secondhand how do you know the battery has been looked after or abused previously. I wonder if there are state of battery reports you can get done for second hand ev's?
I tend to refuel my car when it gets between a quarter and empty I don't like to go too low as you don't know what crap is sloshing about in the bottom of the tank so i would charge my EV at a quarter, I thought the 80% was the cut off point for fast chargers and there was no problem charging to full charge using the slower home chargers.80-20% charge is recommended for the battery type used in lots of cars.
I just plug it in whenever I'm home, default charge is to 70%, change it to something higher if I think I need it.I tend to refuel my car when it gets between a quarter and empty I don't like to go too low as you don't know what **** is sloshing about in the bottom of the tank so i would charge my EV at a quarter, I thought the 80% was the cut off point for fast chargers and there was no problem charging to full charge using the slower home chargers.
Pretty much my criteria as well not fussed about the 3 year thing as most car last for years now, the range for me has to be in 200 mile real world or just not worth it. Mileage is an issue for me I try to keep below 50k as as i do 15k a year and means can keep for 4 years before it needs major money ie cambelts etc.You're not the only one in that situation. My next car will almost certainly be an EV, but currently I have a 13 year old Golf that I've had for 10 years, and it only does about 5000 miles per year. It's cheap to insure and service and ULEZ compliant, so there's very little economical case to change it.
Basically we'll keep running it until circumstances change that demand something else - either we're doing more mileage or the car becomes more trouble than it's worth.
When it comes to change I'll be looking for a similar size car with a 250+ mile range, and around 3 years old. I'm starting to see a few cars meeting this criteria sub £15k now.
I just plug it in whenever I'm home, default charge is to 70%, change it to something higher if I think I need it.
You can fast charge to greater than 80% but the car will slow the charge as it get closer to 100% so not relay fast charging for the last 10-15% or so.
I wasn't aware you can charge at whatever rate you like how does that work?
Thanks.You can have a target percentage, and set a start time and end time.
As well as setting a charge level you can also set a charge rate in Amps, incase you want to charge more than 1 car at a time maybe and want to balance the load I'm guessing.I wasn't aware you can charge at whatever rate you like how does that work?
Ahh, that old chestnut. You do know that the pickup for the fuel pump is located right at the bottom of the tank where all the supposed "crud" is sloshing about. There's little to no debris in the fuel out of the forecourt pumps and cars have fuel filters anyway just in case and these are changed at periodic service intervals.I tend to refuel my car when it gets between a quarter and empty I don't like to go too low as you don't know what **** is sloshing about in the bottom of the tank
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