cost

[dps]

what is the average cost.of making 23Lt's of beer from scratch excluding cost of equipment.

 

[31bb3]

Depends on the style of beer

 

[Runwell-Steve]

I Brew All Grain

If I was to brew 23 Litres of a standard British Beer, I'll use Caledonian 80/- as an example.

I would need a total of 4.5 kg of Grain, £4.50
Approx 80g of Hops £3.00
Dried Yeast £1.99
Protofloc 20p

Total Ingredients = £9.70

I use approximately 30 pence worth of electricity and £1.00 worth of propane as well.

Total of 11.00 for the brew, which equates to 28 pence per pint.

 

[dps]

well that's cheaper than what i have just payed for a woodfordes wherry kit .which was 17.95 .

 

[StrangeBrew]

well that's cheaper than what i have just payed for a woodfordes wherry kit .which was 17.95 .

all grain is generally cheaper than kits...

 

[RobWalker]

you are probably looking at extract brewing to begin with if you don't want any real kit upgrades. with a 10L pot my beers cost...

4x 500g DME = £9.00
50g hops = £1.50
S04 Yeast = £2
Gas etc £1.

£13.50 before any real modifications - speciality malts, sugars, co2, etc. Hops can be cut down on though so choosing what's wise to brew financially is important, a simple lager will cost much less than an IPA...you can harvest your yeast too saving some cash on each brew.

 

[orlando]

I managed to get some free brewers yeast from a micro brewery and bought a lot of hops through my local Craft Brewers association. Excluding electricity 25 litres of a Timothy Taylor Landlord clone has cost me 15p a pint. However, and it's a big however, I have spent hundreds on a 3 vessel all grain kit (and am still adding to the toys list) so if I keep this up, and a lot of AG brewers seem to, I will probably never get a really cheap pint. If I don't get any more kit then with the prices for beer round here as a benchmark I will get my money back in about 1/2 a dozen brews. The important thing for me is not price, it is the fun of brewing and the pleasure from the end result, so you pays your money.....

You do have to drink a lot to get there though :nono: . Agh! well.

 

[Runwell-Steve]

Thats the thing with All Grain.

The ingredients are cheap, but the equipment is not necessarily quite so cheap.

I use this lot for brewing my beer.

It only looks like 3 pots and a pump, but by the time you put all the fittings and pipework etc.. it adds up to quite a lot of money.

 

[dps]

Thats the thing with All Grain.

The ingredients are cheap, but the equipment is not necessarily quite so cheap.

I use this lot for brewing my beer.

It only looks like 3 pots and a pump, but by the time you put all the fittings and pipework etc.. it adds up to quite a lot of money.

why do you need all that. i thought is was just a boiler and a mash tun..

 

[orlando]

Like I said fun & quality, the two are inseperable with All Grain.

 

[StrangeBrew]

why do you need all that. i thought is was just a boiler and a mash tun..

Don't even need that ... just a boiler or stove top pot and a bag to get going in all grain using the BIAB method... plus your FV which you've got from doing kits anyway

:

 

[Runwell-Steve]

There are different ways of doing it.

BIAB requires the least equipment as StrangeBrew has said, but I like to brew 50 Litres at a time so the weight of the bag would be an issue for me. I also like brewing in a fairly traditional way, and like shiny things.

You can work with just a boiler and a Mash Tun, but it is easier to have a Hot Liquor Tun (HLT) as well.

My HLT is up on the shelf, at the start of the brew there is 70 Litres of water in there at strike temperature of 72C.

I add my approx 10Kg of grain to the Mash Tun, then add in 25 Litres of water from the HLT. While the Mash is on I heat the remaining 45 litres in the HLT up to 80 degrees for the sparge.

Whilst sparging I have water running into the top of the Mash Tun from the HLT, at the same time I am pumping the wort from the Mash Tun into the boiler. Hence I have all 3 vessels in use at one time, which fo me makes it easier.

Some people use the boiler as both boiler and HLT, this means you have to temporarily store the wort in a spare FV until the boiler is free. If you are only brewing a fairly small brew length this is fine, but I don't like the idea of pouring large amounts of hot liquid from one vessel to another.

 

[beer taster]

why do you need all that. i thought is was just a boiler and a mash tun..

that's only part of the kit, once you start down the AG route you end up with, kegs, gas, keggerators, taps, fonts, etc....., and it will all eventually end up shiny :whistle:

 

[Runwell-Steve]

Did you mention kegs and a kegerator, all shiny, I do believe you did. :drunk:

 

[beer taster]

Did you mention kegs and a kegerator, all shiny, I do believe you did. :drunk:

Bar steward :mrgreen: Unlike you I still cannot find a tall larder fridge on free cycle

 

[Essex_Lad]

Did you mention kegs and a kegerator, all shiny, I do believe you did. :drunk:

Now your just showing off Steve!! And your only just down the road from me :drink:

 

[artiums_enteri]

It depends on the recipe for me, but my house beer that I brew at least once a week is 1.060, uses 17 pounds of grain, and 10 ounces of hops. Each average brew comes out to 12.00.

I haven't met anyone yet though who got into this hobby to save time and money. It's about the fun and enjoyment we get out of making our own beer.

I don't get up at 3am and freeze my ass off out in the reeds to shoot ducks because I'm hungry. Just like last time I checked there was no shortage of beer at the grocery store. Brewing beer is just a fun activity.

 

[pittsy]

i do it to get ****** (joking) nice set up there, like the fridge erator

 

[Stone Cold]

 

[puravida]

Have you got a photo of the inside of the kegerator?
I've got a (much smaller) one in the garage that I am going to convert soon

Cn decide whether to fix the taps to the front or mount the fridge under a counter and put towers on top.