Brewzilla thread to share knowledge, experiences and good practice

[chopps]

When fininshed there was some hop sludge in the spider and yes it wasnt the easiest thing to clean.

Turn it upside down outside and blast it with a hosepipe. 2 mins and done.

 

[Benfleet Brewery]

I have found that, seems better when using more hops as they seem to provide a filter on the false bottom. And leaf hops better than pellets. Not sure if the break material causes issues with final beer quality?

I’m only three brews in with the Brewzilla and so not properly tried a taste test but despite the extra crud going into the FV it doesn’t seem to make a difference to the clarity of the finished beer. I always cold crash for a couple of days before kegging so it just seems that whereby I used to lose a couple of litres of wort to the kettle I now gain this into the FV only to lose it there when kegging.

 

[The Cat]

Just had an email confirming delivery tomorrow. I'd better get onto the vids tonight. With a beer of course.

 

[RGeats]

I’m only three brews in with the Brewzilla and so not properly tried a taste test but despite the extra crud going into the FV it doesn’t seem to make a difference to the clarity of the finished beer. I always cold crash for a couple of days before kegging so it just seems that whereby I used to lose a couple of litres of wort to the kettle I now gain this into the FV only to lose it there when kegging.

Sounds very similar to my experience.

 

[Gerryjo]

Out of curiosity who transfers using the pump?

 

[RGeats]

Out of curiosity who transfers using the pump?

I used to use the tap, but since using a snubnose fermenter which is taller I have had to use the pump now. I think either way is fine.

 

[Stonedhouse]

My first 2 brews I had the coil sat in the wort and as you said it takes a while.

Only before my 3rd brew did I see someone mention you are best to move the coil around and I found this cut the cooling time maybe in half.

So the whirlpool is used in the cooling stage? I thought it was also meant to help "clump" the debris together. I thought I had read maybe during the hop stand?

The reason for my original question is on this forum there seems to have been very little mention...that ive seen anyway.

Yep a key reason for whirpooling is from larger brewery set ups to clump debris together and as a hopping stage, however the effectiveness of the clumping in a brewzilla type device with a false bottom can be slightly limited. It can help though. Overall though, for keeping things as clear as possible, I find setting up grain/water qtys to ensure I have enough wort going in to the fermenter without tilting the Brewzilla forward when transferring (ie calculating in 2.1 litres extra for that deadspace below the tap) and then holding a standard kitchen type sieve between the tap and the fermenter as I transfer, which catches any excess debris (in reality very little). I use the standard Hop Spider as well which helps keeps things cleaner. So yes, I see the whirlpool arm mainly as an essential cooling aid and to help with whirlpool hops more than anything else.

 

[Gerryjo]

I used to use the tap, but since using a snubnose fermenter which is taller I have had to use the pump now. I think either way is fine.

The pump is great but because its base mounted there is a better chance of getting trub passed through to your FV and personally it doesn't bother me but it may some, whereas using the tap you are leaving any debris behind.

 

[UKSkydiver]

Mine should be delivered tomorrow too.....

Clearly I don't know yet, but . . . . in order to reduce trub to FV can we do either of these:

- Pull the wort from above the bottom via the tap?
or
- Pull the wort and break material using the pump first into another container. When it runs clear(er), pump wort into FV. Allow the break to settle in the first container and then add the clear wort to the FV?

 

[Stonedhouse]

Pulling from the tap and with enough in there to void tilting the brewzilla forward is best from reducing crud / trub ...... but there's other opportunities to avoid it further on down the line however you end up doing it.

 

[Gerryjo]

Mine should be delivered tomorrow too.....

Clearly I don't know yet, but . . . . in order to reduce trub to FV can we do either of these:

- Pull the wort from above the bottom via the tap?
or
- Pull the wort and break material using the pump first into another container. When it runs clear(er), pump wort into FV. Allow the break to settle in the first container and then add the clear wort to the FV?

I use a 12v heat rated pump in line for my burco so when the valve is open and the pump is primed it will pump direct or can use as a recirculating pump.

 

[foxy]

Leaving wort with some trub in a kettle isn't a loss, the expected loss should be factored in to the calculations. Whirlpool and let everything settle, it might take an hour or more, time spent stowing away the gear and getting the fermenter ready. Making a dip tube and incorporating a reducer 8mm or less opening along with choking the tap so you get a slow steady flow will get clear wort into the fermenter. If you get your target fermenter volume then nothing is lost, a few cents worth of wort remaining in the kettle, so what.
If you want to save the wort pour off the remaining wort into a jug, let it settle (the fridge is best) boil then either bottle for a starter or if you missed your target put it into the fermenter.

Keep the pour slow, or use an auto syphon from the top of the kettle.
https://www.morebeer.com/articles/Hot_Trub_Formation_And_Removal

 

[buddsy]

Whirlpool and let everything settle, it might take an hour or more, time spent stowing away the gear and getting the fermenter ready. Making a dip tube and incorporating a reducer 8mm or less opening along with choking the tap so you get a slow steady flow will get clear wort into the fermenter. If you get your target fermenter volume then nothing is lost, a few cents worth of wort remaining in the kettle, so what.
If you want to save the wort pour off the remaining wort into a jug, let it settle (the fridge is best) boil then either bottle for a starter or if you missed your target put it into the fermenter.

Many thanks I was hoping that you would reply. Very interesting info and in the link you added.

From the link talking about Whirlpooling it says you dont want obstructions such as filters and whirlpool for 40mins or as you say maybe an hour. So during this time I take it you wouldnt want your chiller coil in there spoiling your whirlpool action. When you have your solid traub cone you wouldnt want to bung a chiller in then either and risk breaking it up? So in your experience is the wort cooled enough or do you then chill going into the FV by some other means?

Many thanks and your beer does look ace in the Fermzilla.

Cheers

buddsy

 

[foxy]

After cooling and whirl pool, just wait, may be an hour or more. If, as the wort cools I get the big clumps of protein I then prefer to use a syphon as against breaking up the clumps, they just sink, breaking them up it takes longer to settle.

 

[buddsy]

Cheers Foxy Ill give this a go next brew.

buddsy

 

[The Cat]

I have just taken delivery of my Brewzilla. Not going to rush into it for a couple of weeks gonna read up and do my homework as I've only done kits so far.

Exciting times.

 

[hoppyscotty]

The Cat - I'm new to both Brewzilla and brewing. There are loads of videos on YouTube covering it so easy to see how its done. I'm impatient and just launched myself into it and so far so good. No disasters yet!

The only mod I'm doing so far is to get a couple of mesh plug strainers, one to put over the overflow tube (as seen on David Heath Homebrew YouTube channel) as I do get some grist in the overflowing wort so just helps keep it out of the bottom section and potentially scorching the heating elements, and I'll put a second one over the pump inlet as a belt and braces measure to prevent any hop matter that gets past the false bottom getting through if there is enough space under the false bottom. It seems if you whirlpool it can disturb the fast bottom and let stuff through.

 

[Stonedhouse]

The Cat - I'm new to both Brewzilla and brewing. There are loads of videos on YouTube covering it so easy to see how its done. I'm impatient and just launched myself into it and so far so good. No disasters yet!

The only mod I'm doing so far is to get a couple of mesh plug strainers, one to put over the overflow tube (as seen on David Heath Homebrew YouTube channel) as I do get some grist in the overflowing wort so just helps keep it out of the bottom section and potentially scorching the heating elements, and I'll put a second one over the pump inlet as a belt and braces measure to prevent any hop matter that gets past the false bottom getting through if there is enough space under the false bottom. It seems if you whirlpool it can disturb the fast bottom and let stuff through.

The mesh over the top of the overflow tube is well worth it, I've never had an issue by not having one over the pump inlet, but if you can fit one in then no harm at all.

I'll possibly put a video up on YT soon of the whole process as the main thing I see missing on YT but also a lot of different opinions / issues from users is the use of the malt pipe screens and also the interaction of the overflow pipe and recirc with the pump. I've done many brews and always use both bottom screens and the top screen - for mash and sparge and have never had an issue whereas some end up not using all of them. With the grain correctly crushed all should go well using all screens as originally designed. Then I recirc with the pump during the mash but the key is to keep the pump flow very low otherwise the pump sucks the wort up quicker than it can drain back down and you end up with a void above the heater, possibly scorching the wort. Keep adjusting the top screen and overflow pipe collar (with added mesh) to just rest on top of the grain bed and with a slow recirc you end up with a nice settled grain bed and lovely clear wort. Yes this means I don't stir during the mash, which may divide opinions, but never had low gravity problems and always nice clear wort.

Only other mod I've done is to shorten the silicon hose on the recirc arm to stop wort and grains syphoning back up the pipe when the pump is switched off.

HTH

Happy Brewing !

 

[buddsy]

Hi do you have a pic of your mesh over the top of the overflow?

All 3 brews ive used both bottom and the top malt tube screens but have wondered if I would be better not using the top so I can give it a stir. That said like you so far Ive had good OG.

Ive have found getting the over flow tube set to the correct height a bit tricky. Second brew when I took the rubber cap off the tube went down and clicked in so I was unable to raise it. Fafffing around in hot sticky wort. I now make sure its all the way up and fit the cone bit more carefully and push down to the top screen with the flow low to start.

How is everyone else experiences with that?

buddsy

 

[Stonedhouse]

Pic below of the strainer, just a tea-strainer with arm removed.

The current design of the Robobrew overflow pipe with the clip is a bit rudimentary and I have heard they are looking to improve it and in a way that previous models can accommodate it...... time will tell !

I once pulled it up too far and it came away from the lower section - luckily I have the full length brewers gloves so was able to take the plunge and re-attach.