Beer engine with corny setup questions

[MashBag]

Great, I hope it goes well , please let me know how it goes , I have had a look at bags on Love brewing which are just under £20 each I am keen to drop the C02 cheers

Link?

 

[LeeH]

I put more through the beer engine than the keg taps now.

It’s friggin awesome and lasts for months if needed.

 

[d146895x]

I have used a corny keg with my beer engine, co2 pressure as low as I could get it. I am using a check/demand valve in line. The resulting beer is great, but much more waste than feeding it to my normal tap with 15 psi co2. 10/10 for the experience of having “cask” ale at home, but 5/10 for the wasted beer each day. I live on my own and only drink a pint daily, with more on a Friday night.

 

[MashBag]

I have used a corny keg with my beer engine, co2 pressure as low as I could get it. I am using a check/demand valve in line. The resulting beer is great, but much more waste than feeding it to my normal tap with 15 psi co2. 10/10 for the experience of having “cask” ale at home, but 5/10 for the wasted beer each day. I live on my own and only drink a pint daily, with more on a Friday night.

How much of a 23l batch do you waste then?

 

[d146895x]

How much of a 23l batch do you waste then?

If I make a 23 litre batch I would bottle 4-5 litres, the rest in the corny keg - out of the remaining 19L, I probably "lose" 3-4 litres (around 6-8 pints). I think my beer engine is a 1/2 pint cylinder.

 

[MashBag]

 

[peebee]

@d146895x: @MashBag ain't kidding (well ... he is, but you get used to that!): There is no reason to lose any beer left in the pump cylinder for two or three days. A hand-pump has been designed for use in a drinking establishment () and needs some minor modification to operate in a home environment. The most common "modification" is empty it and rinse it after every session ... humm, but I can't be bothered with that either and it still loses some beer and you can't remove all the rinse water (so watered beer?).

You need something to seal the nozzle (I use solenoid valves hidden in the pump, but fixing up a non-return valve in the sparkler seems a good route). Plus: Purge any silicon tubing in the pump with PVC tubing (a better oxygen barrier). The latter can be awkward (silicon tube is very flexible but oxidises the beer well within 24 hours).

 

[RoomWithABrew]

Agreed no need to ditch so much beer each " session ". I'm sure @peebee really means exchange any silicone tubing for vinyl, shame no large diameter EVA barrier tube available for this.
The rarely spotted non return sparkler has not been found for sale yet. But keep your eyes peeled.

The red one has the non return / seal.

Left two sparklers different hole size and number, long black sparkler is for stout and is superb for that style.


Scrupulously clean and sanitise the engine at intervals.

 

[MashBag]

Although bottling is a pita for an hour (every batch) it does make you wonder if you can spend just as much time faffing with a beer engine, over the course of the batch?

 

[peebee]

Although bottling is a pita for an hour (every batch) it does make you wonder if you can spend just as much time faffing with a beer engine, over the course of the batch?

There is some unavoidable phaffing with beer engines at home ... but it's only once to set up against countless bottling sessions. And hand-pumps turn "cask-conditioned" (very low carbonated) beer into a luxurious drink that are just "fizzy" when bottled.

Nope ... hand-pumps are well worth the effort. Save your "does make you wonder" for those that insist on pushing fizzy beer through hand-pumps (some flippin' pubs do it now!).

 

[LeeH]

What wizardry is this non return sparkler? I must acquire one at once!

 

[MashBag]

hand-pumps are well worth the effort.

So you saying hand pump from a bag is worth the effort then.?

 

[MashBag]

What wizardry is this non return sparkler? I must acquire one at once!

Not quite the same but....


https://rlbs.ltd.uk/dust-cap-10-pack-cask-handpull-sparkler-thread-dust-cap.html