Any ideas?

[ridgepaddler]

Hello chaps!

I’ve just broken into all grain brewing from kits, and have a few issues. I’ve searched the forum a bit but not found any real solutions (this may be down to by computer literacy!) so I’m praying for some simple answers.

Long story short, I’ve been doing kit based brewing for quite a while, and it’s always been quite successful, with only one occasion when I managed to produce 40 bottles of Wilko Cervasa vinegar.

Over the last few years it’s been difficult to make any real progress, because me and SHMBO have been working as wardens on campsites for the Camping & Caravan Club (standing joke was “he cuts the grass, cleans the bogs, and runs a micro brewery in the awning).

Last year, I bought a keg outfit from HBC in Ireland, and in November, it managed to build the keggerator to go with it having finished contract in Keswick.

Then the nice man from the Inland Revenue said “have a free gift because you’ve paid too much tax” so I went a bought Brewzilla (thanks Gareth at Dark Farm, excellent bit of kit).

The first couple of kegs were kits I had hanging about, and were excellent. Gin clear, and just about right after I’d bu**erd about with the CO2 pressure for while.

I’ve now done a couple of all grain brews. First one was a Brewtique APA that came with the Brewzilla. It tastes excellent, but is a bit murky (I have a solution to this – drink it from a stoneware “Stien” pot).

I’ve got 2 more kegs in the freezer, and am wondering how they’ll turn out.

Is there a knack to getting all grain brews to come out clear, or am I just a f*ck wit?

Any advice or constructive criticism would be most welcome!

 

[Clint]

Are you using protofloc in the boil? Some haze could be yeast suspension. Beer being to cold(chill haze). Hop particles carried over.
How soon do you tap after kegging?
Time,gravity and cooling drop most clear.

 

[Drunkula]

Is there a knack to getting all grain brews to come out clear, or am I just a f*ck wit?

Any advice or constructive criticism would be most welcome!

Yeah, you can cold crash, search for more on it but it's just getting the beer as cold as you can for a few days before you're planning on kegging it. Adding gelatine really works well, google 'fining gelatine' and you'll find loads on it.

Constructive criticism is if you've got a question then make it in your thread title and make it clear early in your post. A lot of people will be more likely to click if they think you can help and not bail if there's loads of text you have to search for a question in. This isn't being snarky, it's just how people work.

 

[chrisb8]

To get my beer as clear as possible I use Irish moss in the boil, filter the wort before it goes in the fermentation vessel, cold crash with gelatine finings, a filter on my racking cane and time conditioning. I don't use kegs, only bottles, but certainly a few weeks in a cold shed helps (the beer that is )

 

[ridgepaddler]

Hi Clint,
Yep put a protofloc in the boil, as per the instructions.

 

[ridgepaddler]

Thanks Drunkula,

I did stick it in the Keezer, but for only about 24 hours.

Probably my own fault for being too eager (and running out of beer).

I'm sure I've seen a Video somewhere about just kegging it, cooling it, and sacrificing the first couple of pulls to get rid of the crap.

Was this my imagination?

 

[Drunkula]

I'm sure I've seen a Video somewhere about just kegging it, cooling it, and sacrificing the first couple of pulls to get rid of the crap.

Was this my imagination?

Seen a few videos with people doing that. It's up to you whether you want to add finings in the keg or try it in the fermenter and possibly get another pint or so out of it. You don't lose that much. Even when I add priming sugar and keg condition I don't really lose that much.

Calcium in your water also helps yeast flocculate when it's 30 ppm or above. You could check your water report.

From science direct "Calcium ion is an essential accelerant for yeast cell flocculation. Yeast flocculation will be accelerated when the calcium ion content of the wort is over 30 mg/L."

 

[Gerryjo]

Patience is your friend as I don't use clearing or fining agents and still managing to get clear beer though it does condition a while longer though doesn't affect the taste.

 

[HarryFlatters]

Get them cold, give them time. I have never used anything other than Irish Moss and my beers are very clear.

 

[ridgepaddler]

To get my beer as clear as possible I use Irish moss in the boil, filter the wort before it goes in the fermentation vessel, cold crash with gelatine finings, a filter on my racking cane and time conditioning. I don't use kegs, only bottles, but certainly a few weeks in a cold shed helps

Thanks. I'm wondering if I'm carrying too much crap over from the boil to the fermentation vessel. I'm using the pump on the Brewzilla, with a nylon bag (from a Festival kit) tied over the end.

Patience is your friend as I don't use clearing or fining agents and still managing to get clear beer though it does condition a while longer though doesn't affect the taste.

Get them cold, give them time. I have never used anything other than Irish Moss and my beers are very clear.

I think I'll follow the advice, and just leave the two kegs I've got in the keezer for a while. Nether have any additional finings, just the protoflock, that went into the boil. I've got them sitting under about 20 PSI, will the CO2 pressure affect the clearing process?

 

[ridgepaddler]

Calcium in your water also helps yeast flocculate when it's 30 ppm or above. You could check your water report.

I've just managed to get a water report for my area, Welsh Water seam to publish them based on the post code. It says Ca is 28mg/l.

Is this good or bad?

 

[Cwrw666]

What hops are you using? Pellets can leave your beer a bit hazy.

 

[ridgepaddler]

Calcium in your water also helps yeast flocculate when it's 30 ppm or above. You could check your water report.

I've just managed to get a water report for my area, Welsh Water seam to publish them based on the post code. It says Ca is 28mg/l

 

[Drunkula]

It says Ca is 28mg/l.

That's close enough to 30 for me. And there'll be some calcium coming from the barley so I reckon you're grand.

 

[ridgepaddler]

What hops are you using? Pellets can leave your beer a bit hazy.

To get started, I bought, some all grain mash kits from HBC in
Ireland. They've all come with whole leaf rather than pellets.

 

[Gerryjo]

To get started, I bought, some all grain mash kits from HBC in
Ireland. They've all come with whole leaf rather than pellets.

Great company with a great service and 5% forum discount.I highly recommend them as I use them all the time.

 

[ridgepaddler]

Thanks to everyone who contributed. I've just pulled a pint of the plisner, and it's perfect!

 

[Pete Mc]

Other thing to consider is when stiring the mash in the malt pipe don't go all the way to the bottom of the grain scraping the mesh. I have a robobrew and have been getting better results this way.

 

[dwhite60]

Hello chaps!


Then the nice man from the Inland Revenue said “have a free gift because you’ve paid too much tax” so I went a bought Brewzilla (thanks Gareth at Dark Farm, excellent bit of kit).

It's not really a gift, they're just giving you back your own money and without interest too. It's like an interest free loan you gave them.

Enjoy the new kit!

All the Best,
D. White