Using the pump on the brewzilla to transfer the sparge water is pretty good, though I can see the merit of a sparge arm in future.
I did have a look at BeerSmith a couple of years ago and opted for Brewfather as it syncs really nicely across phone and computer completely automatically, and I now pay for the premium version so will probably stick with this now. I think my numbers were pretty good, but the boil off amount was tested yesterday with plain water, and it was clearly less with wort today so will need to make some adjustments. It did need the full 3300W to maintain the boil but there was an awful lot of the protein, likely because of the non barley grist used, and while I did try to remove it, there was an awful lot left.Was thinking about your equipment profile - I've recently created one in BeerSmith 3 which was relatively straightforward but I had to do a bit of pencil-and-paper work to understand what was going on with the volumes - maybe worth a look, if you're up for trying a different tool?
Yaaay - good grief I take my hat of to you for doing a brew AND a roast dinner... Personally I prefer the easy life ;-)I know it's Sunday and late, but I think it's G&T time!
Thanks, the wiring in this house is not ideal and on reflection with your and other direct messages I've decided not to use extensions to try to run the equipment at the same time. The house was built around 1850 but didn't have mains wiring as we know it before the mid 1970's before then there was some lead wiring used in a couple of rooms. The box to the left is the main fuse but the fuse board is a door, a thick wall and a corridor away with a mains cable embeded in the plaster of the wall - hey nothing to do with us, it was like that when we came here. Unfortunately we'd need to take a newish shower room apart to get at the cable, which doesn't appeal. The location at the moment for my brewing is governed by location of a tap, the socket, the door for ventilation and a floor drain.If you're planning on using a second socket in the garage , it would need to be on a separate circuit , with both units heating they'll be pulling close enough to 25 Amps and the circuit is most likely at best rated for 20. Depending on whether the fuseboard is either in the garage or close to it , it might be a straight forward enough job for an electrician to to ideally add a commando 16 amp socket for the Klarstein . ( Is that a main fuse to the left of the bewzilla , which would suggest that the fuseboard is nearby?)
If you're planning on using an extension lead, ( I'm presuming an extension lead on a roll) it would be best to use a different circuit eg kitchen sockets , and preferably use the extension lead for the Brewzilla as it's the smaller load of the two machines. With large loads it's essential to fully unroll the extension lead . If it's left partially unrolled , it'll heat up and most likely melt due to inductance of the coiled cable.
My nice helix unfortunately blocked with that same infernal protein so while cooling lifted it up to open up the coils which worked until near the end when the pump blocked as well! I found a way to connect my chiller by threading the recirculation hose onto my cooling hose and at the slight bulge at the metal arm it fitted snugly.
I also prefer clear bottles, just make sure I store them in a cardboard box or a covered crate out of the light.A bit of an opinion, since these will be hazy and fruited, I'm thinking of a clear glass bottle, would the haze and fruit protect the beer from light damage?
Anna
I shouldn't think the haze or fruit would offer much protection against light damage Anna - but so long as you're keeping them somewhere where there's little daylight you'll be fineLast night, added 2 kg of Raspberry and 0.5kg passionfruit purée to one batch, and 1.5kg passionfruit purée, 3 litres clematine juice and a tea of crushed and boiled corriander seed. That's made the fermenters rather full!
A bit of an opinion, since these will be hazy and fruited, I'm thinking of a clear glass bottle, would the haze and fruit protect the beer from light damage?
Anna
Sorry to hear about the liquid yeast… I‘ve only had one that did that, but to be fair I’d probably kept it too long. I’m sure the lager will turn out fine though.Well not all my brews are quite going to plan:
At some stage I'm going to either have a mega bottling session or have to invest in a canner super quick.
- The Bitter and Twisted is probably the closest to recipe, have just moved to cold crash, dry hopped on day 9
- The Perle pilsner really wasn't working, I'd purchased an expensive 'pure pitch' liquid yeast that said it could be pitched without a starter. It did absolutely nothing for 5 days, at which point I gave up and added some CML Hell, so only in the last 4 days has it really been showing any sign of fermentation.
- The Raspberry and a wee bit of passionfruit Sour is fine but after adding the Raspberry purée there was a burst of activity and now it's gone quiet. I've moved it out of the temperature controlled fridge since I need the space to crash chill the B&T, and given it a good stir to reinvigorate the yeast a bit.
- The Clemantine, passionfruit, corriander, salted gose is now oomphing big after having all the juice and purée added, again gone a bit quiet after the fruit additions, it had the salt added today - heated up in the microwave with a bit of water to dissolve it. With the volume now about 28 litres, I upped the salt to 20g from 17g and may add more but will check before I do, and for the Citra dry hop, used 33g down from 40g, since that was what was left in a pack. I do have another pack but don't want to open it. I don't want the Citra to be too forward anyway so I'm fine about the reduction.
I’m holding a ‘beer and curry’ evening for some friends at the end of the week (little do they realise, it’s mainly because I need to finish off a couple of Cornies!)At some stage I'm going to either have a mega bottling session or have to invest in a canner super quick.
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