Access hole in kitchen worktop

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evanvine

Landlord.
Joined
Sep 28, 2009
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Location
Twixt M1 Jcn27/28, Nottinghamshire
I need to cut a hole in a kitchen worktop big enough to get my hand and forearm through.
Cutting the hole is the easy bit, it's the filling of it in a manner acceptable to swmbo that is the problem!
I thought a hole size of 4" sq or dia would be enough.
The idea is similar to that used on computer tables for the leads, but without the hole.
I can't think of any more questions to ask google :wha:
Any thoughts?
 
Can't see you able to do it without cutting a new circle to fill hole exactly the same size as the original because of the saw blade width. If you can cut such a piece then glue and clamp a piece of 2 x 1 underneath (I take it you cannot get underneath) then glue in new piece.

A square hole may be easier :wha: :wha:
 
if it's for something that is removed frequently as in a hatch for veg peelings etc the you may find something nice out of brass in your workshop and cut the hole to suit, if it's to be sealed again after then cut the timber at a taper, then use a filler/adheasive to bring the surfaces level again. Or chuck something up in the lathe, you sound like the type of man who has at least one Jim. :thumb:
Bru
 
The hole will be for multiple access.
I need to turn my gas bottle off and on without having to remove the kegs and worktop each time.
I don't have a lathe myself, but I know a man who does!
Pics to follow, must get ready for work now.
 
you can get special hole sawys that cut a 110mm access hole and they also supply the plugs that fit , they are for solid floors but should work for you

cutter

plug suitable
then all you need is an arbour (which no doubt you have )
 
The situation!
P1020184a.jpg


P1020186a.jpg


Thanks for the info TT, but I just cant see my missus being over the moon with that plug!
 
in that case

if you have some left over worktop i suggest you cut a square hatch and put a piano hinge on one side closest the wall
this will match and if your work is neat enough sholuld match , use one of those push and release they catches on the bottom of the hatch and you can have it flush with no obviouse way of opening just a hinge at the wall

hope that make some sort of sense
 
Lid from a stainless steel storage jar :hmm:

Got to be impressed with that . . . I mean . . . . It's Shiny :D
 
Aleman said:
Got to be impressed with that . . . I mean . . . . It's Shiny
:D Cant fault you Tony!
Thanks for the input TT, but I'm used to working on steam locos and their closet tolerance is 1/16".
So for me to obtain a hair line crack (which is what she'd want) is a bit of a non-starter :(
 
If you're talking about keeping the missus happy, cut a hole, then put a spare wall tile over the top of it with a plant pot on top! Women love plants!

Or, stick the plant pot in the hole!

:D

If a plug is no good, and you don't have any spare work surface to cut a replacement from... I don't think you're going to find anything suitable for the missus ev!
 
Take a really old cast iron pan and caramelise some sugar in it . . . then while it is still hot, put it on the worktop in the desired approximate location of the hole . . . . Apologise profusely for the damage caused to the worktop . . . and make the hole cutting out the burn mark . . . covering it with something decorative . . . perhaps a stainless steel pot stand . . . after all you don't want to make another burn mark on the work top do you :whistle: :whistle: :whistle:
 
Aleman said:
Take a really old cast iron pan and caramelise some sugar in it . . . then while it is still hot, put it on the worktop in the desired approximate location of the hole . . . . Apologise profusely for the damage caused to the worktop . . . and make the hole cutting out the burn mark . . . covering it with something decorative . . . perhaps a stainless steel pot stand . . . after all you don't want to make another burn mark on the work top do you :whistle: :whistle: :whistle:


:D I do like the way you think
 
Looking at the picture why do you need it in the top?
surely you can make a hole in the side of the cupboard under the window and go in from the side ,
it will be hidden whilst the doors are closed so to swimbo it will be invisible and she will be happy
 
I don't think its too clever Keeping a CO2 cylinder under the kitchen worktop, Jim, if it leaks or fails it can kill you very easily, I would advise a small hole through the wall to the outside tastefully drilled out of site behind the barrels and keep the gas cylinder outside, silicone the hole up inside and out.

That way if the cylinder fails it is less likely to finish you off.

check this out.
http://www.hse.gov.uk/foi/internalops/hid/din/538.pdf

UP
 
unclepumble said:
I don't think its too clever Keeping a CO2 cylinder under the kitchen worktop, Jim, if it leaks or fails it can kill you very easily, I would advise a small hole through the wall to the outside tastefully drilled out of site behind the barrels and keep the gas cylinder outside, silicone the hole up inside and out.

That way if the cylinder fails it is less likely to finish you off.

check this out.
http://www.hse.gov.uk/foi/internalops/hid/din/538.pdf

UP
Scared to go into the shed now for a pint, Pub size co2 and mixed gas :eek:
 
unclepumble said:
I don't think its too clever Keeping a CO2 cylinder under the kitchen worktop, Jim, if it leaks or fails it can kill you very easily, I would advise a small hole through the wall to the outside tastefully drilled out of site behind the barrels and keep the gas cylinder outside, silicone the hole up inside and out.

That way if the cylinder fails it is less likely to finish you off.

check this out.
http://www.hse.gov.uk/foi/internalops/hid/din/538.pdf

UP
Thank you for your concern UP, the alarms you raise were taken into consideration.
The dead space is also home to ducting feedind my out side lights etc.
Under the wooden floor there is an 18" space with access to 4 air bricks.
CO2 is heavier than air!

I do like being looked after by the Forum :thumb:

Perhaps for peace of mind I should get a "Davey" lamp.
 
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