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As above really but if you do try saaz hop , ideal for a witbier .

I'd 2nd that on the grains plus add more maris

I made a beer before xmas with grains around 12 months to 18 months and it's a terrible beer . :(

I would make a 500ml starter with 30g of dme to get into shape then make a 2.5 litre starter with 250g dme and you'll get enough for what you need .When moving a starter up you should do it between 5 and 10 times . Hope this helps

Very true :thumb: they also don't step mash or decoction too and it shows with some of em . Bloody profit margins i guess :(

If you didn't hydrate the dried yeast it will have killed up to 50% and your beer if drops to around 1010/1012 (expected) would be more like 6% so yes you need more yeast but only about a quarter of a packet . Give it a good stir (avoid splashing) and get the temp to 20/22c first and after 24hrs...

As above , where do you gets yours from . I'm after some plain ones that I can slide my design into . I've just ordered a black board style pump clip but really want to put my beer design on (which i haven't designed yet either) Thanks , Mark .

maybe the beer got skunked , sat in the sun ? I've read it can only take 20 mins . To be honest your grain should be fine for at least 6 months and more like 12 months if kept out the sun and dry . Mystery .

This pitching cold ain't what it's cracked up to be , the idea comes from being able to maintain the ferment temp once it's started in the old German brew houses . The rule of 30 once was about if you wanted to ferment at 18c then you should pitch at 12c , this was because no cooling was...

I was also thinking maybe your grain is old or something like that but also you under pitched yeast . Do you hydrate your dried yeast first , if not you could be losing up to 50% of the viable yeast . Hope this batch turns out well for you .

Pitch colder 15c if wanted . Your mash , the first 2 are to enhance the flavour while the 3rd and 4th are to extract certain sugars but you need a longer mash time . I would do the last 1 for 50 mins . Starters are the way forward to get active viable yeast which gives a fast ferment finishing...

Evening . Good call on the cara wheat , 1 of my fav cara malts . Perle is a great bittering hop for a hefe and using hersbrucker for your flavour hop is also idea with perle . Also your grains are gonna give it a bit more malty to it which imo is very nice . Good luck with it . What will be your...

welcome , yeah same as Bob said here too .

A stuck ferment is often down to either the wort from all grain brewing lacks something (zinc and all sorts ) but as it's a kit beer it must be down to under pitching viable yeast . You hydrate the dried yeast which if you don't can lose 50% of the viable yeast . some yeast packets are 7g others...

You mentioned a 90 min mash ending at 68c and wanted less body with more fermentables , you will get more body and less fermentables at that temp . 64c for 90 mins is more what you would of wanted to get the above .

wb06 is a german style wheat beer (hefeweizen) yeast , is will produce clove and banana . A belgian style wheat beer (witbier) yeast will produce a slight clove and a tartness , no banana . These are 2 different styles of beer that require different yeasts .

If using say wlp400 then pitch at 18c and move up to 22c after a day then either remain here or move it up to around 24c . I would also recommend a gentle stir every 3 to 4 days as it's a slow yeast ( 3 weeks needed if no stirring ) .

Dme and lme as already been malted with treated water , so to get as near as possible to whatever the malt house did you are better off using RO water or water with as little in it as possible because it will only add to what has already been done . It shouldn't make much difference by using tap...

welcome aboard , here is a good place to start with reading http://www.howtobrew.com/ :cheers:

I just like the crystal flavour it has , it's been in my personal recipe that you liked . ;)