Search results

Nitrogen is very difficult to dissolve in beer. CO2 a lot easier. CO2 causes the foam. Nitrogen causes the cascade.

You just burst it to 10psi I'm assuming? Dropping from 10 psi to 4 psi does mean you will be increasing the CO2 vols to perhaps 1.9 vols at that temp. When you warm the beer to 5 or 6 and set reg to say 30psi you'll have 7.5 psi of CO2. That would be just about the same vols. An inch of head is...

You really don't need to worry about the beer line diameter or length too much. It's getting a stable temp and the correct amount of CO2 vols in your beer, pressure of about 35psi with 70% nitrogen and 30%CO2 and a stout faucet with restrictor plate. I use a very small line for my high volume...

I use a 3mm 4mm external 2mm internal beer line for my saison keg at 3.5 vols. Using the adapters from John Guest to fit into the tap and ball lock.

Deleted

If you have the ability check the battery voltage readings of this ispindel in its recent history. If there is liquid ingress often see a rapid tilt angle change and battery losing charge fast. One of my ispindels sank in a NEIPA finished the ferment, fished it out washed and dried then a new...

"Apparently, a lot of dogs don't like any black dog, particularly labs, because they can't see the expression on their faces. Dogs are mostly colour blind (they can only see yellow, blue and grey) so black is difficult." Not sure about the face thing, he'd make a beeline for a black lab 200...

Our springer spaniel was always at least snarly towards black labradors. Was he racist or a typist? ( note no good at typing as useless with his thumbs).

You don't need to balance the beer line as you would for CO2 served beer. The stout spout/ faucet has a restriction plate in it. My setup is 85cm of 5mm internal beer line. Set reg to about 30 to 35 psi, ensure beer is cool and does not have CO2 above about 1.3 vols. The usual reason for foamy...

Yes!

Your water jacket could be on so that the grey input and output are not showing ie rotated about 150 degrees clockwise.

Not completely sure from the image, but I put my temp probe taped on above the heat belt. But on the area above the heat belt cable/ supply. Matches the ispindel well with this method.

You do get the solid beer head with a stout sparkler on a long neck beer engine. You'd be hard pushed to tell the difference in the beer once poured.

I'd buy a beer engine with a long neck and get the dedicated stout sparkler, much cheaper, the nitrogen is free and more money for ingredients.

I suppose I could work that out for you by attaching a pressure gauge to the end of the nozzle, however that could fill the gauge with water or beer. Any ideas? I don't have a closed isolated pressure gauge. Might be easier to experiment with nozzles.

I realised that, don't have a SS conical and only pet fermenters. At one stage I had a long handled microfibre brush that was from a japanese goods shop for cleaning water bottles. It was great but the wire snapped at the handle join which was a real shame. Haven't found another so I'm warm not...

If it was stainless I'd use hot PBW recirculated with pump and spray ball. Plus take any clamps and valves off if Tri clamps and clean separately.

I have a very skinny arm.

I'm sure I can wash and clean and sanitize a keg in less than 20 minutes using water cloth then starsan

Why?