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Beer engine with corny setup questions
- Thread starter Ajdpilot
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d146895x
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I have used a corny keg with my beer engine, co2 pressure as low as I could get it. I am using a check/demand valve in line. The resulting beer is great, but much more waste than feeding it to my normal tap with 15 psi co2. 10/10 for the experience of having “cask” ale at home, but 5/10 for the wasted beer each day. I live on my own and only drink a pint daily, with more on a Friday night.
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How much of a 23l batch do you waste then?
d146895x
Active Member
If I make a 23 litre batch I would bottle 4-5 litres, the rest in the corny keg - out of the remaining 19L, I probably "lose" 3-4 litres (around 6-8 pints). I think my beer engine is a 1/2 pint cylinder.
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![BREWING THERMOMETER STICKERS ACCURATELY MONITOR FERMENTING BEER & WINE LIQUID TEMPERATURES 5PCS HOME BREW SPIRITS WINE LCD ADHESIVE [US]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/311DDjo2X3L._SL500_.jpg)
peebee
Out of Control
@d146895x: @MashBag ain't kidding (well ... he is, but you get used to that!): There is no reason to lose any beer left in the pump cylinder for two or three days. A hand-pump has been designed for use in a drinking establishment (
) and needs some minor modification to operate in a home environment. The most common "modification" is empty it and rinse it after every session ... humm, but I can't be bothered with that either and it still loses some beer and you can't remove all the rinse water (so watered beer?).
You need something to seal the nozzle (I use solenoid valves hidden in the pump, but fixing up a non-return valve in the sparkler seems a good route). Plus: Purge any silicon tubing in the pump with PVC tubing (a better oxygen barrier). The latter can be awkward (silicon tube is very flexible but oxidises the beer well within 24 hours).
) and needs some minor modification to operate in a home environment. The most common "modification" is empty it and rinse it after every session ... humm, but I can't be bothered with that either and it still loses some beer and you can't remove all the rinse water (so watered beer?).You need something to seal the nozzle (I use solenoid valves hidden in the pump, but fixing up a non-return valve in the sparkler seems a good route). Plus: Purge any silicon tubing in the pump with PVC tubing (a better oxygen barrier). The latter can be awkward (silicon tube is very flexible but oxidises the beer well within 24 hours).
RoomWithABrew
Landlord.
Agreed no need to ditch so much beer each " session ". I'm sure @peebee really means exchange any silicone tubing for vinyl, shame no large diameter EVA barrier tube available for this.
The rarely spotted non return sparkler has not been found for sale yet. But keep your eyes peeled.
The red one has the non return / seal.
Left two sparklers different hole size and number, long black sparkler is for stout and is superb for that style.
Scrupulously clean and sanitise the engine at intervals.
The rarely spotted non return sparkler has not been found for sale yet. But keep your eyes peeled.
The red one has the non return / seal.
Left two sparklers different hole size and number, long black sparkler is for stout and is superb for that style.
Scrupulously clean and sanitise the engine at intervals.
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Although bottling is a pita for an hour (every batch) it does make you wonder if you can spend just as much time faffing with a beer engine, over the course of the batch?
peebee
Out of Control
There is some unavoidable phaffing with beer engines at home ... but it's only once to set up against countless bottling sessions. And hand-pumps turn "cask-conditioned" (very low carbonated) beer into a luxurious drink that are just "fizzy" when bottled.
Nope ... hand-pumps are well worth the effort. Save your "does make you wonder" for those that insist on pushing fizzy beer through hand-pumps (some flippin' pubs do it now!).
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What wizardry is this non return sparkler? I must acquire one at once!
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So you saying hand pump from a bag is worth the effort then.?
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Not quite the same but....
https://rlbs.ltd.uk/dust-cap-10-pack-cask-handpull-sparkler-thread-dust-cap.html
RoomWithABrew
Landlord.
It's got a little spring inside keeps it closed at the end until pulling on the beer handle pressure exceeds the spring and little valve.
Trouble is I got the sparkler with one of the beer engines I bought in New Zealand.
I don't know where they got it from and haven't seen it on sale in any of the specialist beer engine suppliers.
Wondered whether it would be possible with a small spring and the ball from non return part of a keg coupler.
I haven't needed to experiment.
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What thread size are sparklers?
RoomWithABrew
Landlord.
I don't know, quite a fine thread, but seems standard on all of my different engines.
peebee
Out of Control
Calm down, calm down. If you trip and fall in your fermenter, you only have yourself to blame.
Anyway, if you can't handle the excitement of these automated contraptions, have a word with our resident luddite (@MashBag) and he'll set you right with some simple repurposed caps from RLBS. Don't mention to him you've seen "sparklers" with springs in 'em doing the same thing automatically ... he might get unpredictably dangerous hearing that.
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Has anyone thought about using a hand water pump...
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Can you see my thinking now?
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