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I believe so, yes. One of the reasons I have not decided to play batteries.
What system do you have? I've heard different things (ie. You can charge/discharge using the full depth of charge - but it might be because the givenergy batteries have a larger capacity than they tell you to build in that over charge/undercharge protection)Yep but it still doesn't make sense not to have them when you are all electric & cover your house in panels.
(I have 10kwh batteries & 6kw inverter)
The main thing is not to let the charge drop too low, mine is set to 20% minimum. But you should also only charge to 90% to stop overcharging issues, but then you loose 30% capacity.
(My system always charges to full as it had no max charge limit until a recent update & that doesn't seem to work on my kit yet)
Yep but it still doesn't make sense not to have them when you are all electric & cover your house in panels.
(I have 10kwh batteries & 6kw inverter)
The main thing is not to let the charge drop too low, mine is set to 20% minimum. But you should also only charge to 90% to stop overcharging issues, but then you loose 30% capacity.
(My system always charges to full as it had no max charge limit until a recent update & that doesn't seem to work on my kit yet)
I have a solis inverter & 2*5Kwh pylontech batteries.What system do you have? I've heard different things.
Them maybe it's not for you. But that doesn't mean it's not for other people.I could not get the ROI to add up.
Li-ion seena to be quite different from LiFePo4. The latter seem much more tolerant to "100% DoD" cycles.I have a solis inverter & 2*5Kwh pylontech batteries
We are 100% leccy with 23kw of generation.I have a solis inverter & 2*5Kwh pylontech batteries.
@MashBag If you have gas for heating/cooking, you don't get ROI, but were electric only with storage heaters and young adults at home (cooking power is as much as heating power when averaged over the year) when the energy crisis started. Overnight payback time halved to 7-8 years.
thanks got one of those for my 3-pin run devices like pumps and chillers, but my brew kit runs off 32a commando sockets. Brewkit will use a a few fair few KW over a short time, but running a glycol chiller and a couple of fridges constantly over time will consume more over time...so wanted to monitor that over time.Or use something like this
View attachment 104197 I have an old one for a time when I was looking to get an idea of the costs of running things around the house to see what we needed to economise on. They can be programmed with your tariff and are reasonably accurate.
BZ gen 4, uses the same idea, to control heat by switching the on-off mark-space ratio to achieve desired power. Perhaps you need an old BZ 3.1.1, which had one switch for the 1900W element, and one for the 500W element.My battery can export 3.6kW to the house, so brewing from the battery is no problem.
What I did find about battery/brewing is that when I set my GF to boil at 70% power, it doesnt' just reduce the load on the heater, it goes at full blast for 0.7s, then off for 0.3s. Feeding thing from the mains is fine, but batteries can't react to quick changes it load (they take several seconds). So what probably ends up happening is that the battery pumps out (say) 2kW constantly, and for the 0.7s that the GF is drawing power, that comes from the battery. But for the 0.3s that it's not drawing power, the battery is still discharging 2kW so that just goes straight into the grid.
If the load is constant, batteries are fine though
No. It seems to be a one second duty cycle, you can only set the power.Does the GF allow you to set the power control power switching period.
Strange that stand alone inverters (not grid connected) can't suffer same problem with varying loads - as there's nowhere else for the power to go.
Stand alone or "island" systems have their own ground spike (earth connection) as part of the installation. So if the battery and house can't take the load, the extra goes straight into the ground. So there is somewhere else for the electricity to go.Strange that stand alone inverters (not grid connected) can't suffer same problem with varying loads - as there's nowhere else for the power to go
Stand alone or "island" systems have their own ground spike (earth connection) as part of the installation. So if the battery and house can't take the load, the extra goes straight into the ground. So there is somewhere else for the electricity to go.
Simple installations, like motorhome/campervans; boats; a mains inverter clipped onto a battery; or a genny with a power tool plugged in, mostly operate without a ground spike.Stand alone or "island" systems have their own ground spike (earth connection) as part of the installation. So if the battery and house can't take the load, the extra goes straight into the ground. So there is somewhere else for the electricity to go.
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