Youngs American IPA

[Longhead23]

Hi all.

My first message in the forum. I started my first homebrew with a Youngs American IPA kit

I’m going slowly through this whole thread, but as I already have my kit in the FV for a few weeks I thought it’s worth asking early than later.

The kit it is been in the FV for around 3, more like 4 weeks, coronavirus got in middle and a I lost a bit of track. O.G. 1.053. Last night I was hoping to add the hop pellets so checked the S.G. and it is still at 1.012. The temperature is about +/- 20C

My first question is:

Is it normal that this kit takes more than 4 weeks to finish fermentation? I will check the S.G. again in 3 days. If the S.G. hasn’t changed after that, is it safe to add the hops, wait around two days, rack to the bottling bucket, prime, and bottled?

This brings me to my second question:

For how long shall I dry hoping?

The instructions say to leave them in for around 2-3 days. I found this article "A Case for Short And Cool Dry Hopping", that recommend even a shorter time of 24 to 48 hours, is there any consensus on this? What is the general recommendation with this kit?

And last question: To bag or not to bag the pellets? I have two big muslin (nylon) bags that I can use or is it better to just chuck the hop pellets in the FV and rack after to the bottling bucket?

Many thanks

I did this kit a couple of years ago. It's really good. It sounds like you got a good OG and the FG sounds good too. Personally I'd dry hop now for a few days. I'd imagine you FG won't change. If it's the same after 3 days bottle it.

 

[Ale House Rock]

There really is no right or wrong about whether you add the hops loose or bagged. The object of the exercise is to extract as much hop flavour into your beer as you can. If you bag the hops, you need to make sure the bag (or bags) are big enough as you need enough space for the hop pellets to swell in the bag and for them to release the flavours your want. You'll also likely have to weigh the bags down otherwise they'll just float on the surface. This method makes transferring into your bottling vessel cleaner as you can remove the hop bags first. Personally, I always put the hop pellets directly into the primary 2 days before bottling as I think this maximises the 'hoppiness' of the brew. After a few hours, as the pellets start to hydrate, I lift the primary an inch or two to gently rock the liquid inside. Lift it directly in front of you (6 o'clock position) then again at 3 or 9 o'clock position . This will disturb the hops floating on the surface and you'll see them sinking through your brew. Keep doing this from time to time over the 2 days and you'll start to see the disintegrated hop pellets forming a layer on top of the yeast at the bottom. To avoid transferring disintegrated hops into your secondary vessel, use the hop sock provided in the kit but put the wire cage from a champagne or prosecco bottle at the bottom of the sock to prevent it being drawn in towards you siphon. You might need to clean or change the sock once or twice depending on how many hop pellets have been added. If you don't have any of these wire cages, you will have a hard time siphoning and would be better bagging the hops. Good luck. Do whatever works best for you.

 

[boohbeer]

Thanks everyone for your reply and tips.

I’ll take another S.G reading this evening if it’s the same I’ll add the hops split in the two sterilised bags with some sanitised marbles and follow the recommendations for the dry hopping.
I’m looking forward to trying my first beer!

Cheers

 

[boohbeer]

Nearly two weeks after my previous post and the airlock is still bubbling. It kicked off again quite intense about a week ago, I checked the gravity three days ago and it was down to 1.007, so nearly 6 weeks in total! I'm really losing my patience

 

[dwhite60]

1.007 ? It's got to be done unless it's picked up some other bug that's now eating what the yeast wouldn't. DON'T PANIC! This is just a possibility. It's most likely fine.

Check the gravity again in a couple days and see where it's at. If it's the same, bottle.

If you've been living under a high pressure weather system and a low has moved in, you can see some slightlly enhanced activity as it's out-gassing.

 

[Elliott 22]

I have just added my hops at 1012 after checking and gravity hasn’t moved in a week, made the kit last Christmas and it’s a cracker, feel I should of waited longer now, been in fv at controlled temp of 20c for first 12 days then crept up to 21c to help yeast and clearing and hasn’t moved since, so just brought up to 22c. Going to bottle in 3 days but feel I’ve messed up with impatience

 

[Elliott 22]

I have just added my hops at 1012 after checking and gravity hasn’t moved in a week, made the kit last Christmas and it’s a cracker, feel I should of waited longer now, been in fv at controlled temp of 20c for first 12 days then crept up to 21c to help yeast and clearing and hasn’t moved since, so just brought up to 22c. Going to bottle in 3 days but feel I’ve messed up with impatience

Also now bubbling again but that should be the hops Id of thought? Questioning myself now

 

[nordberg]

My AIPA has all but stopped bubbling and I’m reading 1.007. This is 10 days in. It’s been a consistent 22C and had a very active first few days before levelling off gradually.

I’ve gone ahead and added the hops in a muslin bag. It’s now get very active again so I’m concerned I’ve added the hops too early.

Does this sound plausible? I’m planning on transferring to a second FB and batch priming on Thursday morning at the moment but I’m now second guessing things and worried I’ve hopped to early..

 

[chuffer]

Dry hopping sometimes causes a brief flurry or activity but 1.007 is low enough, be reet

 

[nordberg]

So quick though! I read so many stories of it taking weeks..

 

[Meza]

I’m now second guessing things and worried I’ve hopped to early..

When you add the dry hops often CO2 is released from the beer, so this is the likely activity you're seeing.

 

[nordberg]

Dry hopping sometimes causes a brief flurry or activity but 1.007 is low enough, be reet

When you add the dry hops often CO2 is released from the beer, so this is the likely activity you're seeing.

Thanks guys.

it tasted OK - not unpleasant. No body though, but I presume that will come...

So I’m thinking - 3 days with the hop pellets, siphon off into secondary bucket, add priming sugar, stir and bottle. Does that sound OK? Is there any value I’m leaving it in the secondary bucket any longer?

 

[Meza]

Thanks guys.

it tasted OK - not unpleasant. No body though, but I presume that will come...

So I’m thinking - 3 days with the hop pellets, siphon off into secondary bucket, add priming sugar, stir and bottle. Does that sound OK? Is there any value I’m leaving it in the secondary bucket any longer?

Sounds good. No benefit in leaving it longer in my mind.
A hoppy drop like this is best enjoyed fresh, before oxidation sets in and hops start to fade.

When transferring, priming and bottling take care to avoid splashing and oxygen contact where you can. The quieter (or silent!) the process the better.

Are you using a bottling wand? If you've not used it before I'd practice with some water first. It's easy to accidentally get air bubbles caught in the wand, which oxidises all the beer as it passes by! Keep an eye out for that if you have a clear wand or hose.

Good luck. But overall don't over think it and have fun.

 

[nordberg]

Sounds good. No benefit in leaving it longer in my mind.
A hoppy drop like this is best enjoyed fresh, before oxidation sets in and hops start to fade.

When transferring, priming and bottling take care to avoid splashing and oxygen contact where you can. The quieter (or silent!) the process the better.

Are you using a bottling wand? If you've not used it before I'd practice with some water first. It's easy to accidentally get air bubbles caught in the wand, which oxidises all the beer as it passes by! Keep an eye out for that if you have a clear wand or hose.

Good luck. But overall don't over think it and have fun.

Thanks. Yes, I’ve got a bottling wand and intend on lots of practice before going live!

With regard to the brew lacking body, is that likely to change once bottled?

 

[Meza]

Thanks. Yes, I’ve got a bottling wand and intend on lots of practice before going live!

With regard to the brew lacking body, is that likely to change once bottled?

Hmm, body is mainly determined by sugars left in the beer and the final gravity (lower = less body/sugar but more alcohol). That's not going to change once fermentation has finished.

But once it's carbonated that'll change the way you perceive the beer, and also a bit of time carbonating and conditioning does wonders for a beer.

Is it your first brew? It's a journey!
My best kit was Tiny Rebel Cwytch. I messed up my Youngs AIPA and made Sarsons!
Then once you decide to switch to grain brewing the taste will blow you away

 

[Scottyburto]

Received a promo email from home brew online re the youngs american IPA and american cream ale. Has anyone tried either of these kits? A brief description on the e mail said that the IPA is in the style of goose island. I fancy trying on of these kits but at 30 quid after delivery i would like some opinions on them first.

If you have a look through the kit reviews on the forum homepage the youngs US IPA has been talked about at great length and is widely regarded as the best kit you can buy.

 

[Ale House Rock]

Thanks. Yes, I’ve got a bottling wand and intend on lots of practice before going live!

With regard to the brew lacking body, is that likely to change once bottled?

If your are using PET bottles, you can gently squeeze the air from the headspace in the bottle before sealing cap tightly. I have to give credit to Terrym for this tip. The theory is that this will reduce oxidation of your beer in storage but the more immediate benefit for a new brewer is that if you batch prime, which, from your post it looks like that's what you are planning, over the first 2-3 days after bottling, you'll be able to observe your bottles 're-inflate' with CO2 giving you the assurance that carbonation is underway and you are only about 2 weeks away from glory! Your question about 'body' has been answered later.

 

[Meza]

If your are using PET bottles, you can gently squeeze the air from the headspace in the bottle before sealing cap tightly. I have to give credit to Terrym for this tip. The theory is that this will reduce oxidation of your beer in storage but the more immediate benefit for a new brewer is that if you batch prime, which, from your post it looks like that's what you are planning, over the first 2-3 days after bottling, you'll be able to observe your bottles 're-inflate' with CO2 giving you the assurance that carbonation is underway and you are only about 2 weeks away from glory! Your question about 'body' has been answered later.

Yes that's a great idea if you have plastic bottles.

If you are bottling in glass, it's a good trick to do one in plastic (eg old coke fizzy pop bottle), as AHR indicated, you can the squeeze the plastic bottle to see if carbonation is done.

 

[nordberg]

Thanks again guys.

The bubbler has calmed down again today and I’m seeing about one bubble per minute, I understand there’s more to it than bubbling mind,

I figure I’ll stick with Plan A and have a look on Thursday morning. I’ll check the hydrometer again (I’m new to this and not overly confident in my hydrometer reading skills) to make sure it’s as it was last night, and if so I’ll crack on with bottling, I was toying with the idea of cold crashing but I think I’m getting ahead of myself...

I’m bottling to glass but I like the idea of the plastic bottle tester, so will see if I can locate one or two.

 

[nordberg]

Just took an SG reading and it's holding steady somewhere between 1.006 and 1.007.

The muslin bag with the hop pellets in has swollen up but seems to be doing its job as there's now a pronounced hoppy aroma and taste. Tasted pretty bloody good to be fair.

I'm going to leave it until Saturday to rack to the secondary FV. If I were to cold crash, do I do that before batch adding the priming sugar, or after? What's a good timescale for cold crashing? Seems to be anything from one day to a week!