Youngs American IPA

[Bobtheblob]

You add the whole bag of priming sugar that was included in the kit.

 

[TheCraftyBeerdsman]

You add the whole bag of priming sugar that was included in the kit.

Thanks for the speedy reply.
Is it wise/possible to add the remaining afterwards? I guess it’s the only option if I don’t want a failed IPA?

 

[Bobtheblob]

Yeah chuck the rest in it'll be fine. It's only for carbonation and should take a couple of weeks to carb up.

 

[Oneflewover]

Thanks for the speedy reply.
Is it wise/possible to add the remaining afterwards? I guess it’s the only option if I don’t want a failed IPA?

I suspect that the instructions say to add just some of the supplied priming sugar as the barrel you get in the kit won't hold as much pressure as a bottle. I'd stick to the recommended amount, accept a lower level of carbonation, and bottle next time if you prefer a fizzier IPA.

 

[Rodcx500z]

Yeah I would say so, I use 80g which is roughly 2.8oz in old money, I never go more than 100g in my wilko barrels normally 60 t0 80 depending on beer type

 

[terrym]

If you bottle your AIPA use all the priming sugar which is about right for the style.
However PBs are not designed for highly carbed beers like AIPAs and lagers, so I would not put any more than about 95g in a PB although there are some on this forum who do exceed that. PBs flex and the more internal pressure you have, the greater the flexion and that 'tests' the main seams and having had at least two that have failed due to splits on the seams I can say that is one weak point (of a few!).

 

[TheCraftyBeerdsman]

The Beer Kit instructions literally just say “add the priming sugar”, I did assume I am supposed to use the full bag as you use all the malt extract, sugar, yeast, hops..but played it cautiously..on the earlier comments I have now added the rest of the bag (it did froth up a fair bit) & potentially now expect a split barrel or at the very least a very overcarbonated AIPA?

Is there any realistic way to resolve this?

I was hoping to nail this first ever brew too!haha

 

[Rodcx500z]

When I use my pb's I always make sure the beer is fully fermented or below 1010 on the hydrometer then I will cold crash it for 3 days, I only use them for bitter, pale ales and stouts basically ales that don't need high carbonation, having said that I have a wilko cervesa in one at the moment with 100g of sugar solution in it, if your brew was fermented out it should be ok, one thing you can do is after 24 hours draw a bit of that will tell you if its over carbed don't open the tap fully do it gently and see how it comes out

 

[TheCraftyBeerdsman]

When I use my pb's I always make sure the beer is fully fermented or below 1010 on the hydrometer then I will cold crash it for 3 days, I only use them for bitter, pale ales and stouts basically ales that don't need high carbonation, having said that I have a wilko cervesa in one at the moment with 100g of sugar solution in it, if your brew was fermented out it should be ok, one thing you can do is after 24 hours draw a bit of that will tell you if its over carbed don't open the tap fully do it gently and see how it comes out

Thanks for this! I was/am stressing now..
I will give it a go tomorrow evening..if I don’t come home to lovely homebrew all over the floor!

 

[terrym]

The Beer Kit instructions literally just say “add the priming sugar”, I did assume I am supposed to use the full bag as you use all the malt extract, sugar, yeast, hops..but played it cautiously..on the earlier comments I have now added the rest of the bag (it did froth up a fair bit) & potentially now expect a split barrel or at the very least a very overcarbonated AIPA?

Is there any realistic way to resolve this?

I was hoping to nail this first ever brew too!haha

You should not get too concerned about your PB splitting, on the assumption that the rubber band pressure relief valve works and vents CO2 before the max allowable working pressure is reached. The PRV is designed to protect the PB from failing, and is located on whatever is fitted onto your cap.
However what you may find is that when the PB is fully pressurised it takes a lot of skill and time to dispense beer from the tap. So initially you might be dispensing foam rather than beer
Its not your fault. Homebrew suppliers fail to point out to potential customers that they are only really suitable for lower pressure beers.
In the meantime you might find this useful if you have not used a PB before
Guide to a Standard Home Brew Pressure Barrel

 

[TheCraftyBeerdsman]

You should not get too concerned about your PB splitting, on the assumption that the rubber band pressure relief valve works and vents CO2 before the max allowable working pressure is reached. The PRV is designed to protect the PB from failing, and is located on whatever is fitted onto your cap.
However what you may find is that when the PB is fully pressurised it takes a lot of skill and time to dispense beer from the tap. So initially you might be dispensing foam rather than beer
Its not your fault. Homebrew suppliers fail to point out to potential customers that they are only really suitable for lower pressure beers.
In the meantime you might find this useful if you have not used a PB before
Guide to a Standard Home Brew Pressure Barrel

Literally my first ever brew, so I followed the instructions to the letter..until the concern over the priming sugar.
Thanks for the reassurance that it should be ok..the PRV in my mind should do the job, I guess I am just seeking some peace of mind from you seasoned pros here!

 

[Rodcx500z]

I am far from a seasoned pro I can only pass what I have learned with a lot of help on here along the way, I hope your brew is good and don't give up

 

[TheCraftyBeerdsman]

I am far from a seasoned pro I can only pass what I have learned with a lot of help on here along the way, I hope your brew is good and don't give up

Definitely no giving up, I’ve already got the Young’s Pale Ale lined up to go next..with a view to bottle!
Although from your feedback it seems I ideally should have PB’d the Pale & bottled the AIPA!

 

[Rodcx500z]

That's down to personal choice some like well carbonated ale some don't, I normally do all grain biab but I brew outside when its cold I revert back to kits, I did a California common on Saturday in the kettle, I am going stocking up on grain at the weekend now its getting warmer

 

[Tridimnaw]

So I did my second kit brew today, it's now bubbling away in my fermenting fridge. So far so good, my gravity was @1.052. Done to 23L. Going to be keeping an eye on this for the next 24hrs in the hope it stays in the bucket

 

[Graz]

Got this on the go at the moment, can't quite remember if this is the third time I've made it. Anyway, hops went in on Thursday, started cold crashing Sunday, smelt lovely in the fridge. Going into a keg tonight with the remainder in bottles and I'm going to burst carbonate as I've run out of beer Bad planning. Hopefully be able to sample it by the weekend. thumb

 

[Waggy91]

Hi all
my aipa has turned out great however I just went to the second keg that’s had another 4 weeks aging in the shed and it’s got a sweet twang to it. Any idea what may have caused this?

 

[boohbeer]

Hi all.

My first message in the forum. I started my first homebrew with a Youngs American IPA kit

I’m going slowly through this whole thread, but as I already have my kit in the FV for a few weeks I thought it’s worth asking early than later.

The kit it is been in the FV for around 3, more like 4 weeks, coronavirus got in middle and a I lost a bit of track. O.G. 1.053. Last night I was hoping to add the hop pellets so checked the S.G. and it is still at 1.012. The temperature is about +/- 20C

My first question is:

Is it normal that this kit takes more than 4 weeks to finish fermentation? I will check the S.G. again in 3 days. If the S.G. hasn’t changed after that, is it safe to add the hops, wait around two days, rack to the bottling bucket, prime, and bottled?

This brings me to my second question:

For how long shall I dry hoping?

The instructions say to leave them in for around 2-3 days. I found this article "A Case for Short And Cool Dry Hopping", that recommend even a shorter time of 24 to 48 hours, is there any consensus on this? What is the general recommendation with this kit?

And last question: To bag or not to bag the pellets? I have two big muslin (nylon) bags that I can use or is it better to just chuck the hop pellets in the FV and rack after to the bottling bucket?

Many thanks

 

[Crappyfish]

I did this kit ages ago and stuck to the instructions I believe a bag came with it to dry hop which I also used with no problems. I have recently found out by trial and error that if the bag is too small the pellets just swell up and they seem to remain drier in the middle of the clump. After all that typing I would say stick to the instructions and a bag is a cleaner way of dry hopping and it can be taken out after a couple of days where as loose pellets cant.

 

[terrym]

Hi all.

My first message in the forum. I started my first homebrew with a Youngs American IPA kit

I’m going slowly through this whole thread, but as I already have my kit in the FV for a few weeks I thought it’s worth asking early than later.

The kit it is been in the FV for around 3, more like 4 weeks, coronavirus got in middle and a I lost a bit of track. O.G. 1.053. Last night I was hoping to add the hop pellets so checked the S.G. and it is still at 1.012. The temperature is about +/- 20C

My first question is:

Is it normal that this kit takes more than 4 weeks to finish fermentation? I will check the S.G. again in 3 days. If the S.G. hasn’t changed after that, is it safe to add the hops, wait around two days, rack to the bottling bucket, prime, and bottled?

This brings me to my second question:

For how long shall I dry hoping?

The instructions say to leave them in for around 2-3 days. I found this article "A Case for Short And Cool Dry Hopping", that recommend even a shorter time of 24 to 48 hours, is there any consensus on this? What is the general recommendation with this kit?

And last question: To bag or not to bag the pellets? I have two big muslin (nylon) bags that I can use or is it better to just chuck the hop pellets in the FV and rack after to the bottling bucket?

Many thanks

This kit can take a long time to ferment out. But your SG is still quite high relative to many on here. I would take another SG reading in 2 days time and if its the same you may as well add the hops. The choice of whether you use a bag is up to you. However I suggest you do use a bag, if its big enough or even both, boiled for 5-10 minutes to sterilise then put the hops in with about 4 SS dessert spoons if you have them. I would then go 3 days in the warm, then find a cold place for 2 days before you package. However there is a slim chance your fermentation restarts due to the hop addition, and if this happens you just have to leave it in the FV until its finished