Bobtheblob
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You add the whole bag of priming sugar that was included in the kit.
You add the whole bag of priming sugar that was included in the kit.
I suspect that the instructions say to add just some of the supplied priming sugar as the barrel you get in the kit won't hold as much pressure as a bottle. I'd stick to the recommended amount, accept a lower level of carbonation, and bottle next time if you prefer a fizzier IPA.Thanks for the speedy reply.
Is it wise/possible to add the remaining afterwards? I guess it’s the only option if I don’t want a failed IPA?
When I use my pb's I always make sure the beer is fully fermented or below 1010 on the hydrometer then I will cold crash it for 3 days, I only use them for bitter, pale ales and stouts basically ales that don't need high carbonation, having said that I have a wilko cervesa in one at the moment with 100g of sugar solution in it, if your brew was fermented out it should be ok, one thing you can do is after 24 hours draw a bit of that will tell you if its over carbed don't open the tap fully do it gently and see how it comes out
You should not get too concerned about your PB splitting, on the assumption that the rubber band pressure relief valve works and vents CO2 before the max allowable working pressure is reached. The PRV is designed to protect the PB from failing, and is located on whatever is fitted onto your cap.The Beer Kit instructions literally just say “add the priming sugar”, I did assume I am supposed to use the full bag as you use all the malt extract, sugar, yeast, hops..but played it cautiously..on the earlier comments I have now added the rest of the bag (it did froth up a fair bit) & potentially now expect a split barrel or at the very least a very overcarbonated AIPA?
Is there any realistic way to resolve this?
I was hoping to nail this first ever brew too!haha
You should not get too concerned about your PB splitting, on the assumption that the rubber band pressure relief valve works and vents CO2 before the max allowable working pressure is reached. The PRV is designed to protect the PB from failing, and is located on whatever is fitted onto your cap.
However what you may find is that when the PB is fully pressurised it takes a lot of skill and time to dispense beer from the tap. So initially you might be dispensing foam rather than beer
Its not your fault. Homebrew suppliers fail to point out to potential customers that they are only really suitable for lower pressure beers.
In the meantime you might find this useful if you have not used a PB before
Guide to a Standard Home Brew Pressure Barrel
I am far from a seasoned pro I can only pass what I have learned with a lot of help on here along the way, I hope your brew is good and don't give up
This kit can take a long time to ferment out. But your SG is still quite high relative to many on here. I would take another SG reading in 2 days time and if its the same you may as well add the hops. The choice of whether you use a bag is up to you. However I suggest you do use a bag, if its big enough or even both, boiled for 5-10 minutes to sterilise then put the hops in with about 4 SS dessert spoons if you have them. I would then go 3 days in the warm, then find a cold place for 2 days before you package. However there is a slim chance your fermentation restarts due to the hop addition, and if this happens you just have to leave it in the FV until its finishedHi all.
My first message in the forum. I started my first homebrew with a Youngs American IPA kit
I’m going slowly through this whole thread, but as I already have my kit in the FV for a few weeks I thought it’s worth asking early than later.
The kit it is been in the FV for around 3, more like 4 weeks, coronavirus got in middle and a I lost a bit of track. O.G. 1.053. Last night I was hoping to add the hop pellets so checked the S.G. and it is still at 1.012. The temperature is about +/- 20C
My first question is:
Is it normal that this kit takes more than 4 weeks to finish fermentation? I will check the S.G. again in 3 days. If the S.G. hasn’t changed after that, is it safe to add the hops, wait around two days, rack to the bottling bucket, prime, and bottled?
This brings me to my second question:
For how long shall I dry hoping?
The instructions say to leave them in for around 2-3 days. I found this article "A Case for Short And Cool Dry Hopping", that recommend even a shorter time of 24 to 48 hours, is there any consensus on this? What is the general recommendation with this kit?
And last question: To bag or not to bag the pellets? I have two big muslin (nylon) bags that I can use or is it better to just chuck the hop pellets in the FV and rack after to the bottling bucket?
Many thanks
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