I’m saving my last can of Putty for next week...two of my pals have gone dry for January so I said I’d wait. It’s Light Bulb, HB and Amundsen for me this weekend
Just having my 2nd Putty.
Now the manful has cleared it has more bitterness than I thought. Definitely more than 28 IBU that I guessed at.
Definitely getting more Galaxy upfront and a sweaty socks mosaic style after.
But that mouthfeel is awesome.
The 8% is super well hidden its that smooth
I’ve never heard them talk about it or read about them using finings, I’m going to guess they don’t.Do you think they use any kettle finings at Verdant when brewing beers like these?
I've been leaving them out of NEIPAs but find they still drop clear pretty quickly. I've not been using as much wheat malt as this recipe though
I’ve never heard them talk about it or read about them using finings, I’m going to guess they don’t.
I see someone is selling a can of putty on eBay for 15 quid!!
Just FYI the beer pictured is their AW-18 V3 one off Citra only DIPA, which is not the same beer as the v3 referred to in that google doc. The V3 in the doc actually dropped pretty much brite, though the V3.1 didn't.View attachment 17637 https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1H6SYXgcjX9vR9xYGiJhKZOyS8XtO60d2Hl5Jzcbwjzw/edit#gid=0
Cloudwater use finings on V3
So i think i'm going to have to have a go at this after my next brew.
The more i read the more i want to try and crack this.
Me too once I get some cash.
What recipe you going to try
I am going to go for a variant on a Putty/Pulp grist, high chloride water, and super soft yeast. Not decided on the hop bill yet although i have some ideas. I started on building up the recipe last night so i will work on it during the week so i can order the key ingredients the following week as i am brewing a "special" beer in conjunction with @dan125 this weekend. So this one will be brewed in about 3 weeks time.
What do you mean by 'super soft yeast'?
View attachment 17637 https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1H6SYXgcjX9vR9xYGiJhKZOyS8XtO60d2Hl5Jzcbwjzw/edit#gid=0
Cloudwater use finings on V3
I would avoid using a yeast with low flocculation in these beers. London III, for instance, is a high flocculator, as is SO4, which is also commonly used for these.
The reason being that these beers shouldn't be yeasty, the haze is a protein-polyphenol haze, not yeast. Yeast haze in these beers will just increase astringency and lead to longer conditioning, which these beers ideally want to avoid.
The yeast selection should be based on ester production and attenuation. Fruitier, yeast driven flavour and higher residual sugar. Flocculation, or lack of, can be dealt with by chilling, and probably why in the posts above, Cloudwater chill and then raise the temperature for dryhopping, when using Medium flocculating WLP095.
As for crash cooling, yes it works, but unless you have the right equipment (i.e. the ability to replace the head space with CO2 rather than air as it compresses), then crashing these beers too cold/for too long will potentially bring about oxidation issues.
So we are in agreement that yeast selection is based on flavour and not flocculation.They are hop bombs, they are hop driven with yeast playing a complimentary second fiddle rather than virtually disappearing (as with West Coast IPA).
As long as you can capture enough CO2 in the balloon and get a good seal then yeah, that'll work, like the brulosophy guys do it.Something simple like a 10p balloon replacing the airlock in the later stages of fermentation?
So we are in agreement that yeast selection is based on flavour and not flocculation.
Enter your email address to join: