Ashbeck has a pH of 6.2 but in any case it's the pH of the mash that matters, not the pH of the water.Just been looking at alternatives but they are all over 7.2ph, whereas Ashbeck is only 3ph.
Ashbeck has a pH of 6.2 but in any case it's the pH of the mash that matters, not the pH of the water.Just been looking at alternatives but they are all over 7.2ph, whereas Ashbeck is only 3ph.
Ashbeck has a pH of 6.2 but in any case it's the pH of the mash that matters, not the pH of the water.
Do you remember there was a lorryload of that crashed on the M1 a few years ago - caused all sorts of problemsI bought some dehydrated water and it’s so simple to rehydrate from the tap.
Back to the good old days of using citric acid to get the pH down for me then as I mostly use spraymalt now, less mess and I can accurately predict the abvAshbeck has a pH of 6.2 but in any case it's the pH of the mash that matters, not the pH of the water.
I do the same boil half as a concentrated wort and top up with the other half chilled Ashbeck after hop stand, no clart on with any wort chillers, I get it down to 20c straight awayHmm... Maybe I should bite the bullet and look at tap water with a campden tablet. I do need to chill some as I only boil around a third of the volume of liquor. It seems like a faff compared to opening 11 bottles less sanitising or treatment with bottles. If however I could powder the campden tablet then add tap water to 2l starsanned bottles that would work. Then that means I always need to keep 11 X 2 litres bottles handy.
Yeah they were fine, I even took one bottle in the car to a party to drink there with my handpull and it survived the journey - they looked rather swollen - but did the job. I reused them again but then moved away from the handpull onto corny kegs. I should do another brew into a bottle like that (or a polypin) so I can vert the handpull out again, it has been too long!Did they handle the carbonation without splitting or leaking gas from the cap?
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