Stainless Steel FV Musings

[foxy]

It isn't the pressure that makes pressure fermenting quicker, its the higher temperature, yeast go anaerobic after 16 hours in the wort, the last couple of points is slower as the fermentation is almost finished. It does stress the yeast through pressure once you go over 1 ATM also the dissolved co2 doesn't help the stress of the yeast.

A lot of people notice the difference in the natural carbonation to forced carbonation, to me it makes a smoother drink. Maybe something to do with taste/feel of carbonic acid intake, I have no idea, some people don't notice any difference.

 

[gerald8_kop]

Morning again all

Pleased to say that the Brew Builder fermentor has arrived and that I'm probably far more excited about a metal bucket than I should be.

Will treat (...) everyone to a photo or two when I get a mo but before doing so can I ask a dumb Q?

I wanted to check that I'm not missing an O ring for the 90 degree hose barb which the blow off will attach to. Am I right in thinking I only need the one (which has been provided) on the interior of the lid to create an air tight seal? I don't need a second for the exterior as well?

I'm fairly sure just the one is fine as per the thermowell which I had included but the ball tap having two has cast some doubt.

Thanks

 

[Sadfield]

Although I don't know why anyone would want to use pressure during fermentation apart from minimal pressure to carbonate the beer.

Reduced esters, fusel alcohols and loss of wanted volatiles through co2 scrubbing. Most of the negative effects are at the growth stage and can be avoided by capping the fermentation after 12-24 hours.

It's probably a better option for those without temp control than switching to saison or kveik yeasts in summer. Also a great way to make really clean lager without dropping the temperature very low.

Corny kegs make excellent stainless FVs.

 

[foxbat]

I wanted to check that I'm not missing an O ring for the 90 degree hose barb which the blow off will attach to. Am I right in thinking I only need the one (which has been provided) on the interior of the lid to create an air tight seal? I don't need a second for the exterior as well?

The o-ring should go on the side where the bulkhead is, as opposed to the side where the thread is. From what I can see from the product photos on the web that is the outside. If I'm right then the thread will poke through the hole in the lid and be tightened on the inside by the nut, pulling down on the o-ring to create the seal between the lid below the o-ring and the bulkhead of the fitting above.

 

[gerald8_kop]

The o-ring should go on the side where the bulkhead is, as opposed to the side where the thread is. From what I can see from the product photos on the web that is the outside. If I'm right then the thread will poke through the hole in the lid and be tightened on the inside by the nut, pulling down on the o-ring to create the seal between the lid below the o-ring and the bulkhead of the fitting above.

Yeah the website photos arent the clearest but your post makes sense, the blue line being the lid (and the top nut being to give it some height for the tubing since the centre of the lid is recessed):

Thus the thermowell which has a metal flange (snigger) / washer disc

 

[foxbat]

In the first photo is the left-most nut welded closed around the top of the thread or is there a flat o-ring in there that I can't see in the photo? If yes then it's all good. If not then the thread itself must be sealed somehow, or there must be a flat o-ring between the end of that nut and where it meets the start of the barbed outlet.

In the second photo you want the washer on the other side (inside) of the wall. It's there so that you don't grind up the inside wall when you tighten the nut against the curved surface. On the outside the o-ring provides the overall seal. Don't tighten it too much or it'll deform and squash out of position.

 

[gerald8_kop]

In the first photo is the left-most nut welded closed around the top of the thread or is there a flat o-ring in there that I can't see in the photo? If yes then it's all good. If not then the thread itself must be sealed somehow, or there must be a flat o-ring between the end of that nut and where it meets the start of the barbed outlet.

In the second photo you want the washer on the other side (inside) of the wall. It's there so that you don't grind up the inside wall when you tighten the nut against the curved surface. On the outside the o-ring provides the overall seal. Don't tighten it too much or it'll deform and squash out of position.

Bummer, no the left most nut isn't welded in the first photo - I screwed it on manually.

So I need one of these in between too

Flat Rubber Washer

 

[foxbat]

So I need one of these in between too

Flat Rubber Washer

Ideally yes but it's only for the blow off tube so I'd probably just use PTFE tape on the thread. That should be enough.