Simon's Brewery Build

[Staz]

Hi Simon,

I'm going to base my control box build around yours but without the circuitry for switching the mains over between the two outputs. I will be using a ring main and can power each heater element from a separate 240v supply. I'm also going to add a 12v 1A power supply and a pot to control the speed of the 14w solar pump I've bought.

The input to the two pid controllers will from their respective mains inputs via a 16A illuminated rocker switch then through a 13A fuse and then direct to the pid controller. My concern was a 3Kw element is going to draw 12.5 A which is close to the fuse rating. Have you fused each of your pid controllers and have you had any problems fusing when on the copper boil cycle?

Cheers
Steve

 

[pjbiker]

Simon will confirm but the actual element supplies that carry the current need to be separated through one SSR (solid state relay) for each element. The large current is not taken throught the PID itself.

explained here

viewtopic.php?p=192102#p192102

 

[Staz]

Hi PJ,

I'm planning to connect the input L1 to the heater then to 240v side ot the SSR and L2 via a fuse to the other side of the SSR switch. Using 20 gauge witre I'll take a a feed from L1 and L2 (after the fuse) to the trigger inputs 1 & 2 on the pid. Outputs 6 & 7 then go to the other side of the SSR pins 3 & 4. Sorry I didn't make this clear in the post and thanks for the feedback.

 

[simonranson]

Staz,

I've wired my PIDs/SSRs up sort of like 5.4 on here http://auberins.com/images/Manual/Manual version 3.4.pdf except my power feed into terminals #9 and #10 is via the live/neutral bus and a 1A fuse. The feed to the SSR is direct via the main and selector relays.

I am slowly trying to put a circuit diagram together!

Simon

 

[Staz]

Simon,

That's exactly what I had planned without the selector relays as I don't need them. I think I'll use a 1 amp fuse to protect the pid's themselves as well as a 13 amp after the dpst rocker switch. I'll need to bus as well but the basic circuit will be as per the Auber link you have attached.

Where did you get your PT100 plugs and sockets? I've been looking around on fleebay and can only find 3 way XLR phone types.

 

[simonranson]

It would have been easier if I didnt use all the relays, but I've only got three circuits in my little house, so had to be careful with the power draw.

The probe-end plugs and sockets were from Auber. At the control panel end, these are from Maplin. They are actually 4-way as they were out of 3-way ones... they were a bugger to solder on!!

http://www.maplin.co.uk/components/connectors/multiway-connectors

 

[Staz]

Cheers Simon,

I'll check out the connectors or failing that go for the XLR audio type.

Steve

 

[pjbiker]

I've used these for the PT100s in the box I'm building at the moment, XLR as you suggested. Nicked the link from someone else's post on dual temperature monitors. Would be good to have a monitor on the outflow of mash tun as well as inlet.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190585988055? ... 1439.l2649
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370548125755? ... 1439.l2649

 

[Staz]

Thanks PJ,

Interesting idea about a probe in the outflow of the MT as well as inlet :hmm:

I'm probably going to use the XLR connectors for the probes as they are compact and pretty rugged from what I've seen.

 

[steveT]

Simon - do you have any pictures, or can you provide an explanation of how exactly you have wired the elements?

I have just purchased the same elements for my brewery, and I'd like to show my electrician friend how you've done yours so he has an idea of how to wire mine! :mrgreen:

 

[shocker]

XLRs - rugged :pray: ....there are XLRs and other XLRs :wha: .If you want reliable ,strong and easier to fit get ones made by Neutrik ,RS have them .You dont need the ultra -super bells and whistles or come to that the "no solder fit" ones ,just the middle range standard ones .

The chassis/panel units are a uniforn size male and female, unlike the old Cannon brand and the cheap copies like soundcraft/lab/line etc .Used them for many ,many years in live sound production and those were the best we found .

If you need a link I will find you one .

 

[simonranson]

Simon - do you have any pictures, or can you provide an explanation of how exactly you have wired the elements?

I have just purchased the same elements for my brewery, and I'd like to show my electrician friend how you've done yours so he has an idea of how to wire mine! :mrgreen:

Hi Steve,

Do you mean physically how they are wired at the element-end? or how they are cabled up through the SSR, etc?

Cheers
Simon

 

[Staz]

XLRs - rugged :pray: ....there are XLRs and other XLRs :wha: .If you want reliable ,strong and easier to fit get ones made by Neutrik ,RS have them .You dont need the ultra -super bells and whistles or come to that the "no solder fit" ones ,just the middle range standard ones .

The chassis/panel units are a uniforn size male and female, unlike the old Cannon brand and the cheap copies like soundcraft/lab/line etc .Used them for many ,many years in live sound production and those were the best we found .

If you need a link I will find you one .

That would be excellent Shocker'. Thanks

 

[steveT]

Simon - do you have any pictures, or can you provide an explanation of how exactly you have wired the elements?

I have just purchased the same elements for my brewery, and I'd like to show my electrician friend how you've done yours so he has an idea of how to wire mine! :mrgreen:

Hi Steve,

Do you mean physically how they are wired at the element-end? or how they are cabled up through the SSR, etc?

Cheers
Simon

Sorry, I could have been more clear...I mean how they are wired at the element end.

 

[simonranson]

Sorry, I could have been more clear...I mean how they are wired at the element end.

Hi steve,

I'll post up a picture as soon as I can. In text-terms, the two element terminals are simply cabled up with crimped-on ring terminals screwed onto the little threaded fitting on the ends. I added a large ring-terminal between one of the large (13mm?) nuts and a washer for an earth.

Simon

 

[steveT]

Sorry, I could have been more clear...I mean how they are wired at the element end.

Hi steve,

I'll post up a picture as soon as I can. In text-terms, the two element terminals are simply cabled up with crimped-on ring terminals screwed onto the little threaded fitting on the ends. I added a large ring-terminal between one of the large (13mm?) nuts and a washer for an earth.

Simon

Thanks Simon. There's no need for a picture, that describes it well enough for me to understand. I'm ok with most things, but not this electrickery lark! :wha:

 

[dazer23866]

Wow great build must have a wiring diagram and parts list posted for the control box that would look lovely on my setup :clap:

 

[puravida]

Has your amazing rig been christened yet?
Love to hear how the brewday went and how the beer tastes?

 

[shocker]

Staz - sorry to have kept you waiting , these are the type I mean , this range of Neutrik with the rubber bellows cable strain relier on the line connectors and the panel ones that are the same square front plate and same hole dia for ease of fitting , the 3 pin ones in Nickel

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/xlr-connectors/0405635/

this page gives you one of the connectors in the range , you can find the matching ones . I dont rate the push on terminal ones , but some of the RS own brand are OK if you need to save money . But go for the solder terminal ones .

 

[simonranson]

Has your amazing rig been christened yet?
Love to hear how the brewday went and how the beer tastes?

Puravida,

Yep, I did AG#4 about a month ago which was a Guinness clone. I'm still learning so having a few hicups. Sparging is something that I I cant get the hang of, so I've booked myself into a mashing course down the road at the Aldershot homebrew shop :)

Simon