Simon's Brewery Build

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BarnsleyBrewer said:
Fantastic set-up Simon, maybe a new bench-mark for fellow brewers to emulate

Cheers BB. I have to say that I couldnt have done it, and come to think of it, wouldn't have done it without the advice and great 'how-to' guides on here.

:cheers:

Simon
 
pjbiker said:
Marvellous, no expense spared. Unlike when I build stuff out of leftovers :D

... I blame the internet. Its all too easy to buy stuff on there. Most of the parts came from ebay!

pjbiker said:
Word of warning on the pump. I have the same, be careful to use flexible connectors on it and avoid stressing the plastic connectors, I broke one.

Thanks for the heads up. I hooked it up yesterday for a test. I think I need more power as I didnt get much flow out of it... I dont think my phone charger was quite up to the job :lol:

pjbiker said:
Wondered why you have gone the whole hog with PID controlling the boiler? :wha: I find a simple 'one element or two' to be sufficient. Still, you could employ it for when you upgrade to HERMS :D

To be honest, I havent got a clue why I went for the PID for the boiler. I'm going to try using it in manual mode to control the boil. I'll see how it goes. HERMS may be the next step, but I've got to get my head round the basic AG first :)

Cheers
Simon
 
mashman said:
Hi Simon.
Did you get enough boil out of one element in the kettle or would 2 be better.

Steve

I think I need another one in there. I did a test boil with 30 litres and couldnt get the temperature up past ~96 deg C. lagging may help...
 
Brilliant Simon :clap:

I wont pretend to know whats going on after page 2, but it looks the dogs wotsits :thumb:
 
I think I need another one in there. I did a test boil with 30 litres and couldnt get the temperature up past ~96 deg C. lagging may help...

For those in the know what would Simon's options be for powering 2 elements in his boiler ?

Would you try and power both of them through the control board and PIDs or have one directly wired to a plug to bring the water to a boil while the PID looks after the other element and would it control the temp properly?

Has anyone had experience of juggling two elements to keep a steady rolling boil going and had any problems doing so ?
 
Hi simon,
I shouldn't. Worry what your thermometer is saying, when it's boiling it's boiling. Many factors can effect boiling temperature, atmospheric pressure etc. Pure water at sea level should boil at 100 degrees C. That is the definition of 100degrees. I've never had a thermometer that read over 98 in my boiling wort. It's the vigour of the boil that you want to watch.
 
looking really good. Is this the 'UK' version of the famous 'Eletric brewery'? :hmm: Some inspiration for us all there.
 
mashman said:
Has anyone had experience of juggling two elements to keep a steady rolling boil going and had any problems doing so ?

If I do go down this route then I think I'll have one small-wattage element on all the time, then use the 3kW one to keep the boil going.
 
pjbiker said:
Hi simon,
I shouldn't. Worry what your thermometer is saying, when it's boiling it's boiling. Many factors can effect boiling temperature, atmospheric pressure etc. Pure water at sea level should boil at 100 degrees C. That is the definition of 100degrees. I've never had a thermometer that read over 98 in my boiling wort. It's the vigour of the boil that you want to watch.

Cheers, JP. Yeah, it could be just that. I think another test is in order. From memory the boil wasnt vigour at all, just turbulance really, rather than nice big bubbles of the boil.
 
that is one serious piece of kit i bet it cost a few squid m8 well smart setup i a few guys would love to have one of them built by you wot did it cost for the controll box alone :clap:
 
really nice simon can i ask where you got the pieces for the sight tubes and the connections for the tap to connect to the pots, just another quicky did you find the build for the hop strainer on this forum or is it your own design its so cooool
 
Hi Paul,

The polycarbonate tube for the sight glass came from http://www.theonestopplasticsshop.co.uk/. I got a 2m length 10mm(OD) x 6mm(ID) for £16 delivered.

As far as the taps go. I followed Vossy's how-to guide for these (http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=1418. The valves have an female 3/4" thread in to which a threaded nipple is screwed in. This is then held in place by either a stainless nut, or just by the the plumbing fitting.

I borrowed the idea for the hot strainer from another forum member. I think a few people have done it. I used a couple of 30cm square sheets of mesh from http://www.inoxia.co.uk/rw/category/9.aspx, folded over the edges and then put a tank connector in the middle.

Cheers
Simon
 
tazuk said:
that is one serious piece of kit i bet it cost a few squid m8 well smart setup i a few guys would love to have one of them built by you wot did it cost for the controll box alone :clap:

Cheers! I will work out what it all cost - not too much really loads came from ebay!
 
Good work Simon. Can I ask you where you got the electrical box for covering/connecting the heating element in the boiler, please? The weak link in my set-up is the boiler. It seems whatever I try there are electrical cut-outs for my safety, which stops me getting a good rolling boil, so I thought I'd do what you've done.

Cheers,

Brian Spencer.
 
FrameShift said:
Good work Simon. Can I ask you where you got the electrical box for covering/connecting the heating element in the boiler, please? The weak link in my set-up is the boiler. It seems whatever I try there are electrical cut-outs for my safety, which stops me getting a good rolling boil, so I thought I'd do what you've done.

Cheers,

Brian Spencer.

Brian, you may find the the 'cut-outs' you mention are due to the kettle element overheating and the 'boil-dry safety cut-out' engaging. I had this problem on my electrim boiler where the element's switches were sealed so I replaced with a cheap kettle element with the cut out disabled. Word of warning though, switch on before covering elements it will not cut out until the plastic melts and destroys the connectors.
picture here
viewtopic.php?p=148293#p148293
 
FrameShift said:
Good work Simon. Can I ask you where you got the electrical box for covering/connecting the heating element in the boiler, please? The weak link in my set-up is the boiler. It seems whatever I try there are electrical cut-outs for my safety, which stops me getting a good rolling boil, so I thought I'd do what you've done.

Cheers,

Brian Spencer.

Brian,

The boxes that cover the elements are just outdoor connector boxes from B&Q. They were IP rated until I took a sanding disk to them! I then stuck them on with a hot glue gun and sealed up the edges with silicone. I put a small hole in the bottom to act as a drain should the element start to leak.

The elements I used dont have any cutouts, but from reading bits on here, there can be a little plastic peg that needs removing from the kettle-type elements.

Cheers
Simon
 
Hi Simon.

Was wondering how you were getting on with your boils, (if you'll pardon the question).

I'm at a point with my two 50Ltr pots where I'm fitting the 3Kw elements and I can't decide whether to put one or two elements in the boiler. I have only fitted one in the HLT as the temp doesn't need to be as high and I have two elements left to go in the boiler but if one is sufficient I'll have a spare.

How are you doing with yours ?

Regards Steve.
 
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