Sierra Nevada Pale Ale recipe clone using extract method

[bossdrums]

So I fell in love with this ale, so decided to try and make a clone however, as I’m not doing all grain brewing this is an extract recipe.

My beersmith details are below…

Sierra Nevada Pale Ale Extract
Type: Extract
Date: 15/05/2010
Batch Size: 21.00 L
Boil Size: 9.19 L Asst Brewer:
Boil Time: 60 min Equipment: Brew Pot (3 Gallon)
Ingredients
Amount Item Type % or IBU
21.00 L Sainsburys Caledonian water Water
3.00 kg Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM) Extract 80.00 %
0.50 kg Extra Light Dry Extract (3.0 SRM) Dry Extract 13.33 %
0.25 kg Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 6.67 %
15.00 gm Magnum [15.70 %] (60 min) Hops 22.5 IBU
15.00 gm Pearle [6.90 %] (30 min) Hops 5.0 IBU
20.00 gm Cascade [7.60 %] (15 min) Hops 3.9 IBU
0.50 tsp Irish Moss (Boil 15.0 min) Misc
20.00 gm Cascade [7.60 %] (30 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
1 Pkgs SafAle American Ale (DCL Yeast #US-05) Yeast-Ale
20.00 gm Cascade [7.60 %] (Dry Hop 6 days) Hops -
Beer Profile
Est Original Gravity: 1.052 SG
Measured Original Gravity: 1.050 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.013 SG Measured Final Gravity: TBC SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 5.14 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: TBC %
Bitterness: 31.4 IBU Calories: 465 cal/l
Est Color: 10.0 SRM Color: Color

And this is how the brew went…..
my ingredients

a quick shot of my water, I know a little extravagant and pot…

the light crystal malt used to give body and head retention,

steeped at 70 degress for 30 mins

to get a nice light colour

after 30 mins I removed and collected any excess wort

then I add a couple of cans of malt extract

and the extra light spraymalt

then started to raise the temp to a boil

now it’s time for the hops, this recipe requires 3 hop additions during the boil

hang on a minute perhaps it’s actually time for a beer…perhaps a nice UBU

the first is the magnum for bittering at start of 60 minute boil

starting the boil

it’s important to have a nice rolling boil

then the perle at 30 mins and the cascade at 15, not forgetting the cascade for aroma whilst cooling down.
Lets not forget the irish moss put in at 15 minutes left

once the boil is finished I put in a bath of cold water, with ice cubes, changing as the water heats up…normally takes about 30 minutes to cool

once cooled to around 25-30 I put into the bucket with the remaining cool water to bring it up to require 21L and down to around 20 degress

spent hops

once at 20 degrees I then pitch the yeast, I don’t make a starter just chuck it on top, evenly spread though

job done

this is a video of the initial fermentation… fermentation video

I'm going to bottle half after primary and then dry hop the rest for a week before bottling to compare...hope it tastes something like....I'll let you know

 

[markp]

Nice extract brew there :thumb:
Perfect encouragement for those doing kits that fancy something a little more adventurous without going the whole hog.

I see you are using US-05, have you used this before??
I'm using it for the first time atm......discussion here that may be of interest
viewtopic.php?f=31&t=8183

ATB

 

[bossdrums]

thanks...I hope people find it useful

I've not used US-05 before, normally always use S-04...will have to see how it goes, not sure I'll be happy to wait a couple of weeks for it to complete, nor will my wife....

let me know how you get on with it and I'll post back my findings too...

 

[monk]

Bossdrums...this is so funny. I just did the exact same brew and took pics and all in order to post a play by play like yours on my blog. The only difference is the quantity (2 gallons) and the fact that I brewed mine specifically for the Mr. Beer brewery system. When I first started it was with one of those Mr. Beer kits and I desperately wanted to know how to make tasty beer in it (the canned kits they make are EXPENSIVE and kinda crappy).

Congrats on a beautiful brewday!

 

[bossdrums]

Bossdrums...this is so funny. I just did the exact same brew and took pics and all in order to post a play by play like yours on my blog. The only difference is the quantity (2 gallons) and the fact that I brewed mine specifically for the Mr. Beer brewery system. When I first started it was with one of those Mr. Beer kits and I desperately wanted to know how to make tasty beer in it (the canned kits they make are EXPENSIVE and kinda crappy).

Congrats on a beautiful brewday!

Thanks, I've been meaning to document one of my brews for a while, hope people find it useful...

 

[rickthebrew]

Great post ! :thumb: I use that yeast for most of my brews :

 

[pjbiker]

Re Yeast in this brew.

It's a nice experiment to culture some up from a bottle (or a few bottles) of SNPA as it is available as bottle conditioned ale from supermarkets. You can use some spray malt at 1.020 as a starter apparently but I usually just put some spare wort into a 2L (sanitised) bottle and give it a shake and vent every couple of days. It can take a couple of fermentations to generate a decent amount of yeast though.

Don't know if many others do this but I often compare different yeasts as my 10gal setup requires me to split each brew into 2 5gal fermenters. You may (or not) be amazed as to how much difference to the taste, different yeasts make. When I read about this or that commercial 'clone' it makes me laugh, even with the same ingredients, there's so many variables its almost impossible to make a comparable brew. Not to say they're bad, just different

I try and keep a few different yeasts cultured in jars in the fridge, I rarely buy any.

 

[bossdrums]

When I read about this or that commercial 'clone' it makes me laugh, even with the same ingredients, there's so many variables its almost impossible to make a comparable brew. Not to say they're bad, just different

I agree, even more so since I'm using extract...perhaps clone is the wrong word to use...what I'm actually after is something similar, we all need goals....

 

[bossdrums]

interesting, just as a footnote to my original post, the yeast appears to have done most of its work, as this morning it's reasonably quite and the head has gone down...

that's not dissimilar to the S-04 yeast that I normally use....pitched on saturday afternoon and mostly done by thursday morning.....4 days, I'll transfer into my secondary on sunday, day 8, bottle half and dry hop the rest for a week.

 

[djskinner]

bossdrums, following your well explained brew day I think I'm going to try my first extract brew. A couple of questions:

- I know that water hardness amongst other things affect an all-grain brew. Does this apply to extract brewing as well? Water round our end is extremely hard and bottled water is extremely expensive!
- Where did you pick up that huge sieve?
- What's the Irish Moss for?
- Can I do the brew with a smaller pot, say 7litres?

Cheers,

Dan

 

[bossdrums]

Glad you found the post useful, now to try and answer your questions

I buy my water because the water round our area is over chlorinated, you can use campden tablets to sort this however, I'm lazy....and as water is such a key part of the process I like to have a constant in my process...

I think I bought the sieve from morrisions, it's fantastic for the purpose of straining hops...

Irish Moss is used to achieve brighter worts by assisting the coagulation of unstable proteins...or so I'm told...basically it helps to make your beer clearer...see the clumps sat on top of the trub, in the picture above, I think this is that protein...

As for pot size, I'd say yes, using breersmith to change pot size just seems to change the bitterness, so I'd suggest using more hops to bring it back up again....

I'm sure someone else would be able to explain this better than me so I hope I don't steer you in the wrong direction.

 

[corby_brewer]

Brilliant post Bossdrums, thats the first extract brew day ive seen on this forum. Keep up the good work. :thumb:

 

[State of the mind]

A lot of people look down on extract beers and believe them to be inferior. But really, extract brewing is much simpler and the results are great, just as good as AG beer most of the time. It's just that with AG brewing it is much easier to change and adapt recipes, to your taste.

Reminds me of the "Good ol days", when a brewing batch would be done in under 4 hours. Slightly tempted to go back to extract brewing now. :whistle:

 

[bossdrums]

Reminds me of the "Good ol days", when a brewing batch would be done in under 4 hours. Slightly tempted to go back to extract brewing now. :whistle:

...this is one of the main reasons I've not moved to AG, as I have very little free time, especially since we have a 9 month old baby....maybe I'll move to AG in a few years time when I've exhausted the possibilities of extract brews......one thing that I'm trying to achieve but seem to have problems with is colour....I'd really like to make a real pale ale, in colour as well....but using brupacks pale malt extract doesn't allow this...

 

[markp]

[quote="bossdrums"....I'd really like to make a real pale ale, in colour as well....but using brupacks pale malt extract doesn't allow this...[/quote]

Extra light spray dried malt extract perhaps?

 

[Aleman]

It is somewhat expensive but I have made a very pale lager using Muntons Extra Light Spray Malt. . . . Good quality Muntons Cedarex 'A' is also rather pale . . . if you get it fresh . . . but all liquid malt extract darkens with time. . . . Brupaks is Cedarex 'B' IIRC which is darker anyway.

 

[bossdrums]

I usually use the extra light spray malt, as pictured in my original post as an addition, not tried it as the base malt extract before, will give it a go next time I think...

 

[corby_brewer]

I buy my water because the water round our area is over chlorinated, you can use campden tablets to sort this however, I'm lazy.

I might be wrong here, but dosnt bottled water contain more chemicals and other nasties than tap water?

 

[Aleman]

I buy my water because the water round our area is over chlorinated, you can use campden tablets to sort this however, I'm lazy.

I might be wrong here, but dosnt bottled water contain more chemicals and other nasties than tap water?

it may contain a higher bacterial count . . . . because it isn't chlorinated . . . Ome mineral waters have higher dissolved salts than others (Some even have added sodium bicarbonate to give a nice high alkalinity )

The fact is that water coming through the pipes has[/url] to comply with the drinking water standards . . . but bottled water does not . . . . it however should still 'be fit for human consumption'.

 

[bossdrums]

well it's been dry hopped for 7 days and today was the day to bottle it....went rather well, I've decided to try batch priming, so boiled 200ml of water and dissolved 110g's of sugar in, mixed and brought back to the boil...cooled and then added to my bottling bucket before transferring in the beer. Hopefully it's mixed up good and produces just enough carbonation...

this is a small sample I pulled out to see the colour....