Secondary regulators

[Eskimo John]

You seem to have your secondary regs in line so I guess you have to have the lower carbonated beers downstream from the higher ones.
When I build the cabinet for the CO2 and i intend to secure the co2 cylinder inside with bungee cords. I originally was going to secure it to the side of the Keezer but it is held upright by its connection sufficiently against accidentally being knocked over for now.

 

[jayk34]

No issues with Kegland ones, I also bought the smaller range gauges to more accurately set the pressure.

Current set up is
View attachment 63933

When I get a moment I'll add a 4 way manifold so I can isolate any empty kegs and have a spare output for my counterpressure tap filler. Ideally I could move the CO2 bottle outside the keezer, but I don't have a safety collar for it and with a 14 month old it's not wise.

Will be similar to @Eskimo John's but am certain his is much neater than mine will be

Looks the part

I looks like you have insulated the interior of the collar with polystyrene and tape ?

 

[DocAnna]

Does anyone using the ODL ones? I know they're pricey, but I wanna cry only once.

I have one of the ODL secondaries - which I managed to get beer into only months after getting so have taken apart a couple of times to clean. I think that's one of the benefits of these in that they are designed to be easily deconstructed and cleaned if required.
https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/numpty-beer-in-my-regulators.95299/post-1057044 It is working just fine, I use just the one secondary from the keg to my four output manifold. This provides me with a line off the keg that I use for force carbonating. I could just use a splitter from the keg regulator but this works well at present for me. For noting, the ODL ones are quite large relative to other brands.

 

[jayk34]

I use these Redditch Controls regulators. Work well, can be daisy chained, can be isolated individually.

https://www.lawsdrinkssystems.co.uk...ellar/regulators/secondary-regulator-480.html
Note the price is exclusive of VAT so these are nearer £30 and postage is another £5.95.

Everyone, thanks for all the info.

Had a think about the regulators from all the posts here and decided to go for a couple of the refurbished regulators that Hazelwood pointed out above. Unfortunately the delivery to Northern Ireland and Islands is £15, so will have another look at some of the other options

 

[YeastFace]

You seem to have your secondary regs in line so I guess you have to have the lower carbonated beers downstream from the higher ones.
When I build the cabinet for the CO2 and i intend to secure the co2 cylinder inside with bungee cords. I originally was going to secure it to the side of the Keezer but it is held upright by its connection sufficiently against accidentally being knocked over for now.

Yep, have them in order of carbonation, with any higher carbonated going in the first keg. Then when at serving pressure there's really little difference in the pressures between keg 1 and keg 3, to my eye at least.

Looks the part

I looks like you have insulated the interior of the collar with polystyrene and tape ?

Thanks. Yes foil bubble wrap insulation and aluminium tape. Probably not necessary but I thought it would protect the inside of the collar more protected than just the Danish oil.

 

[YeastFace]

The photo is of my keezer with secondary regs installed. I completed the install last week and so haven't had time to soak test yet.
View attachment 63891

Does your manifold make a low-pitched sound? Hard to describe it but not something I had when I just daisy-chained the secondary regulators.

Edit - it's not constant, just when pressure is filling the keg. Sound is not unlike the one way valve, so perhaps these are built into the manifold?

 

[Redwulf]

I'm running 3 ODL's secondary regs in series very happy with them.

I've got some of the kegland ones which I think I got £10 each and I decided I wanted something a bit better.

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

Does your manifold make a low-pitched sound? Hard to describe it but not something I had when I just daisy-chained the secondary regulators.

Edit - it's not constant, just when pressure is filling the keg. Sound is not unlike the one way valve, so perhaps these are built into the manifold?

Yes my manifold (from Brew-to-keg, but I think they are all the same) does this.

Just checked and the webpage says:
"Each MFL output has an inbuilt check valve to prevent back follow of beer / liquid into regulator. "

 

[YeastFace]

Thank you! Was worried I'd got a dud.

 

[Eskimo John]

I do get a whistling sound when pressuring up but it stops when the pressure is up to the required setting. However I thought it was coming from the kegs as they pressurised. It is more of a moan than a whistle.

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

I do get a whistling sound when pressuring up but it stops when the pressure is up to the required setting. However I thought it was coming from the kegs as they pressurised. It is more of a moan than a whistle.

Sounds like me in the shower…

 

[jayk34]

Does your manifold make a low-pitched sound? Hard to describe it but not something I had when I just daisy-chained the secondary regulators.

Edit - it's not constant, just when pressure is filling the keg. Sound is not unlike the one way valve, so perhaps these are built into the manifold?

Yes mine does as well until the pressure builds up in the keg again.

 

[DuncR]

Half way through a Keezer build and lots of “oh bu**er moments” already. Just about to start the air line side and concerned about using John guest connections with piping at acute angles. Any suggestions?

 

[Eskimo John]

John Guest fittings are very good for gas lines in my experience. The trick is not to put them under unreasonable stress round corners. See pervious post of mine using 90 degree turns so that all lines are not stressed in the push joints.

 

[Hazelwood Brewery]

You can also achieve tighter bends by immersing the pipe in boiling water and then holding it in shape while you hold it under cold water to cool it.

 

[Buffers brewery]

Or, if you’ve got loads a money, use an elbow….

https://kegman.co.uk/products/john-...gugwh1gcEkAdMi3anOfmWualJm5BMdGhoC5KAQAvD_BwE

 

[AJA]

Or, if you’ve got loads a money, use an elbow….

https://kegman.co.uk/products/john-...gugwh1gcEkAdMi3anOfmWualJm5BMdGhoC5KAQAvD_BwE

Much cheaper on the alternative wholesale website, if you can wait a month!

 

[AnimatedGIF]

Half way through a Keezer build and lots of “oh bu**er moments” already. Just about to start the air line side and concerned about using John guest connections with piping at acute angles. Any suggestions?

I'd say depending on the reason for the bend, either 90 degree elbows mentioned above, or use 3/16 as it's much easier to manipulate. You would likely need 3/8 stem to 3/16 push fit reducers though if you go that route. I just hate battling may way past rigid 3/8 tubing.

 

[jayk34]

No issues with Kegland ones, I also bought the smaller range gauges to more accurately set the pressure.

Current set up is
View attachment 63933

When I get a moment I'll add a 4 way manifold so I can isolate any empty kegs and have a spare output for my counterpressure tap filler. Ideally I could move the CO2 bottle outside the keezer, but I don't have a safety collar for it and with a 14 month old it's not wise.

Will be similar to @Eskimo John's but am certain his is much neater than mine will be

@YeastFace I had sent with the kegland inline regs from AliExpress. I am going to connect mine up in parallel target than in series but have just realised that I didn't think about being able to isolate a keg. Is it possible to screw the yellow thumb screw closed to stop the gas going to a keg ? I should have bought seperate duotight ball valves for each regulator but too late now, maybe in the future.

 

[YeastFace]

I have just completed the highly scientific test of blowing through one of the secondary regulators I'm yet to install.

Turning the yellow thumb screw anti-clockwise should close the valve fully to isolate the keg. Be careful not to fully unscrew as the thumbscrew will pop out and the spring will fall out.