Pre built pid temperature controller

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For accurate mash temperature control by PID you need one of these. Make sure you get the PT100 option with the 25A SSR. Avoid K-type thermocouples. K-types have an enormous temperature range more suited to industrial furnace controls than brewing but their real problem is that the standard accuracy of the probe is +/- 2.2C and the ADC in the measurement unit will contribute its own error meaning you could be up to 3C out on what it's telling you versus the true reading. PT100/thermistor technologies should be less than 1C out at the temperatures we care about.

ive ordered one of these for my FV, is there any setting up required or do i just plug my heater element in?

i'll get another for my HLT/ mash tun if all goes well
 
ive ordered one of these for my FV, is there any setting up required or do i just plug my heater element in?

i'll get another for my HLT/ mash tun if all goes well
Looking forward to hearing about this, I'm planning to get it for a mash tun as well after Christmas probably
 
Looking forward to hearing about this, I'm planning to get it for a mash tun as well after Christmas probably

I watched a YouTube video last night and it looks pretty simple. Though the fella suggested a different probe, a pt100, as the probe that comes with the unit is poor apparently
 
ive ordered one of these for my FV, is there any setting up required or do i just plug my heater element in?
Hi!
I think you would be better off with a simple Inkbird temperature controller, like the 308 model, to control the FV. That would be "plug and play". The Inkbird will control up to 10 amps, plenty enough for a fridge and a tubular hear.
The PID and SSR combination will control up to 25 amps, ideal for HLT, RIMS mash tun and boil kettle, but they need wiring up and mounting in a project box.
 
Hi!
I think you would be better off with a simple Inkbird temperature controller, like the 308 model, to control the FV. That would be "plug and play". The Inkbird will control up to 10 amps, plenty enough for a fridge and a tubular hear.
The PID and SSR combination will control up to 25 amps, ideal for HLT, RIMS mash tun and boil kettle, but they need wiring up and mounting in a project box.
Thanks mate but I've already received the PID lol

Doesn't look too hard to wire up (hopefully :laugh8:)
 
Thanks mate but I've already received the PID lol

Doesn't look too hard to wire up (hopefully :laugh8:)

There is a setting where it will simply turn on and off just like an inkbird308 or stc1000. Its under "Ctrl" The sensor that comes with it is a bit crap though and not the ideal shape to tape onto an FV.
 
Does anyone have a simple wiring diagram that they could share. I have managed to kill 2 Inkbird PIDs (ITC-100VH) following the YouTube clip which was attached earlier in this thread and the wiring diagram attached.
pid_diagram.jpg
 
Hi @charlieabbotuk
I used this diagram:
aaaaaaPID wiring.jpg


It looks the same as yours.
The guy in the You Tube clip hasn't used a heat sink on the SSR.
I installed a fan in the project box to exhaust the hot air.
This is a diagram that I drew as an overview.
Wiring 2.jpg
 
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Galena, @Markgee has one or two for sale.
Nearly missed this as the forum did not notify me I had a reply, it seems to do that quite a bit. Hopefully I can get a response from @Markgee regarding this. Thanks for the cables link too. Out of curiosity does it need to control the pump? I thought if the pump just ran for the full mash and temperature would be controlled by the heater?
 
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