PilgrimHudds Brewdays

[Moe]

So this is what I brewed today, a bramling x pale/ipa, pitched cml us pale ale. My og came out at 1044 which was a lot lower than predicted but I did get 20l in the fv.

View attachment 46191

Looks nice.
I did something similar in March, but without the wheat and with Nottingham yeast.

It came out really good after a few weeks conditioning (just as I was down to the last couple of litres )

 

[pilgrimhudd]

Looks nice.
I did something similar in March, but without the wheat and with Nottingham yeast.

It came out really good after a few weeks conditioning (just as I was down to the last couple of litres )

Ha, well I definitely can leave it for a few weeks, I've got beer coming out of my ears at the moment!

 

[pilgrimhudd]

Not sure who will stumble upon this but I'll leave it here.

The other day I had a pale ale in a can, one of those hazy, fruity/piney numbers with quite a thick mouthfeel.

Thought I might try a 10l version this weekend. To be clear, I don't want a NEIPA.

So I was thinking of something like this or so....

Pale ale 3kg
Wheat 300g
Oats 300g

Some simcoe to bitter, leaving some simcoe and cascade for late boil hops and hopstand, I have roughly 70g simcoe and 100g cascade. I suppose it has to be relatively bitter to cut through the mouthfeel? I'll just use us5 as yeast.

I'm not planning on dry hopping, to reduce chance of oxidation.

Think this will work?

 

[matt76]

Not sure who will stumble upon this but I'll leave it here.

The other day I had a pale ale in a can, one of those hazy, fruity/piney numbers with quite a thick mouthfeel.

Thought I might try a 10l version this weekend. To be clear, I don't want a NEIPA.

So I was thinking of something like this or so....

Pale ale 3kg
Wheat 300g
Oats 300g

Some simcoe to bitter, leaving some simcoe and cascade for late boil hops and hopstand, I have roughly 70g simcoe and 100g cascade. I suppose it has to be relatively bitter to cut through the mouthfeel? I'll just use us5 as yeast.

I'm not planning on dry hopping, to reduce chance of oxidation.

Think this will work?

Have you started making this yet? If not I'll have a think and give you my two cents worth

(And if you're already done I'll tell you why you didn't want to do it like that )

 

[pilgrimhudd]

Have you started making this yet? If not I'll have a think and give you my two cents worth

(And if you're already done I'll tell you why you didn't want to do it like that )

Haha, no no, not started yet, probably a mid week, end of next week brew.

 

[matt76]

Not sure who will stumble upon this but I'll leave it here.

The other day I had a pale ale in a can, one of those hazy, fruity/piney numbers with quite a thick mouthfeel.

Thought I might try a 10l version this weekend. To be clear, I don't want a NEIPA.

So I was thinking of something like this or so....

Pale ale 3kg
Wheat 300g
Oats 300g

Some simcoe to bitter, leaving some simcoe and cascade for late boil hops and hopstand, I have roughly 70g simcoe and 100g cascade. I suppose it has to be relatively bitter to cut through the mouthfeel? I'll just use us5 as yeast.

I'm not planning on dry hopping, to reduce chance of oxidation.

Think this will work?

From what I've tasted of your beers I think you know what you're doing with the grist. For 10L I find 2.5kg will end up arount OG 1.045 and 4.0-4.5%ABV, so with 3.6kg it's gonna end up a bit stronger obvs.

Hops-wise, bearing in mind I only make 10-11L-ish batches:

- As we were discussing recently, yeah, I'm also looking at, at least easing off, the dry hop amount exactly as you say to try to reduce hop oxidation risk.

- My recent Podium IPA (Simcoe, Citra & Amarillo) uses 120g hops total, 60g of that is dry hop (which I'm considering reducing next time!)

- My recent Hoppy Amber Ale v3 (Amarillo, Cascade & Centennial) also uses 120g hops, but only 30g of that is dry hop

- For another one I have planned (Chinook, CTZ & Simcoe) I'm looking at only 90g (including a 30g dry hop) as I think these are more robust hops.

- I'd have said you're mixing a more robust hop (Simcoe) with a milder one (Cascade) so maybe think about the proportions in which you add them, maybe 2:1 Cascade:Simcoe???

- I think if you still want some hoppiness to come through then yeah I'd add something in the whirlpool/hopstand.

- IIRC your water is soft whereas mine is mega hard, so your mileage may vary!

After a quick play in Brewer's Friend I'd suggest something like this for a 10L-ish batch:

60mins: 5g Simcoe (N.B. adjust this to get the IBUs/bitterness you want)
15mins: 10g Cascade + 5g Simcoe
10mins: 20g Cascade + 10g Simcoe
5mins: 30g Cascade + 15g Simcoe
Whirlpool 10mins @ 80degC: 20g Cascade + 10g Simcoe

Total: 80g Cascade + 45g Simcoe = 125g

 

[pilgrimhudd]

Cheers mate, yes that sounds pretty good, I'll tap that into beersmith and see what it says. I think the late hop additions look about right, and think you're right about the 2:1 cascade/simcoe.

I was looking for something around the 5-6% mark.

I was thinking with the oat addition it should be reasonably bitter to cut through the fuller bodied beer. The high ish abv should help too....

You remind me, I need to copy your hoppy amber v2 sometime soon.

 

[matt76]

I was thinking with the oat addition it should be reasonably bitter to cut through the fuller bodied beer. The high ish abv should help too....

Yeah, that's kinda what I was thinking too. Whereas I've tended in the past past to rely on late hopping only, I'm now starting to wonder if a bit of a base bitterness addition early in the boil would actually result in a more rounded and complete beer.

I'm also wondering if this is one reason why I wasn't totally happy with my latest Podium IPA. v1 was 5.5% whereas the latest v5 was 4.6%, but I kept the hopping exactly the same and I'm wondering if part of the problem is it's just not so well balanced at the lower ABV.

You remind me, I need to copy your hoppy amber v2 sometime soon.

I had both v1 and v2 last night Neither is what I was aiming for but actually both are still very nice and certainly not dumpers! v2 drinks more like a bitter and as long as I keep that in mind it actually goes down really nicely. v1 is a little more hoppy and closer to what I wanted - I'm hoping v3 in the FV at the moment will put that right!

 

[pilgrimhudd]

Bottled up my bramling x ipa/pale last night, I got 36× 500ml bottles and I used 100g sugar in 200mls water, 5ml in each bottle for priming.

Fg was 1008, I'm leaving it that extra couple of days now and noticing that it is still dropping by a point or two after my previously regulation 2 weeks in the fv. That fg gives it a well rounded 4.7% abv.

Looks wise, it's sort of golden, a bit hazy still. Very sulpherous in aroma, and to be honest a little disappointing to taste but I had had a few beers by then so perhaps my taste buds weren't firing on all cylinders.

 

[pilgrimhudd]

On top of my bottling session I got on with my hopefully slightly hazy ipa/pale and came up with the following recipe. Although actually used 5.5 kg pale ale malt, only just noticed that. OG 1047. Taste from the sampling jar was lovely, got high hope's for this one, yeast will be us5.

 

[pilgrimhudd]

Oh and I whirlpooled at 80c.... and got 20l in the fv. One thing I've noticed is that I'm seriously not getting the sugar from this malt that I did with the otter I was using before.

 

[matt76]

I'm leaving it that extra couple of days now and noticing that it is still dropping by a point or two after my previously regulation 2 weeks in the fv.

That surprises me a little based on what I see in my own fermentations and the data from the Tilt - they're generally pretty much done in 4 days, and very definitely totally done by 7-10.

I suppose the specific yeast strain could be a factor.

Also I can't remember if all your brews are temperature controlled - if not then that could make a difference.

If they are you could try increasing the temperature a little at the tail end of fermentation while it nibbles down those last couple of points.

Oh and I whirlpooled at 80c.... and got 20l in the fv. One thing I've noticed is that I'm seriously not getting the sugar from this malt that I did with the otter I was using before.

It'll be fine at 80degC - I always find it cools so quickly from boiling that it's tricky to be precise.

If you're getting less efficiency from the pale malt the obvious solution is to switch back to MO! The difference could just be the characteristics of that malt or it could be the grain crush if it's from a different supplier.

 

[pilgrimhudd]

That surprises me a little based on what I see in my own fermentations and the data from the Tilt - they're generally pretty much done in 4 days, and very definitely totally done by 7-10.

I suppose the specific yeast strain could be a factor.

Also I can't remember if all your brews are temperature controlled - if not then that could make a difference.

If they are you could try increasing the temperature a little at the tail end of fermentation while it nibbles down those last couple of points.


It'll be fine at 80degC - I always find it cools so quickly from boiling that it's tricky to be precise.

If you're getting less efficiency from the pale malt the obvious solution is to switch back to MO! The difference could just be the characteristics of that malt or it could be the grain crush if it's from a different supplier.

Yeah I usually do use temp control, but as the weather's got warmer i've just stuck them in the utility room at around 18c.

As for the malt, yeah I know, I will go back to Otter, i'm not hard up but this pale was considerably cheaper so I thought i'd give it a stab, you get what you pay for I guess!!

 

[foxbat]

It might be the MO that's high rather than the pale that's low. I noticed I got 3 points higher on the OG than predicted when I used Crisp MO a few months ago and wondered whether there was something about that particular harvest that caused it. Maybe they had ideal growing conditions that year.

 

[pilgrimhudd]

It might be the MO that's high rather than the pale that's low. I noticed I got 3 points higher on the OG than predicted when I used Crisp MO a few months ago and wondered whether there was something about that particular harvest that caused it. Maybe they had ideal growing conditions that year.

Yeah could be something in that, though when I tap it into brewsmith i'm getting a lot lower OG than predicted, where as with the otter i was getting slightly higher than predicted.

 

[pilgrimhudd]

Today I brewed an English IPA with Styrian Goldings, completely ignoring @matt76 sage advice. Here is the recipe

Planning to end up at around 5% and at about 45ibu.

I made a pigs ear of it. Firstly the hop bag erupted so I gave up on it and just chucked the hops in bagless, not a disaster but an omen of what was to come. My normal brew and half hearted sparge, 16l strike water, got to temp at 68, sparge with about 10l of water at roughly 70c, chuck it all back in the boiler and topped up a little with 2l boiling water. Hopped as recipe, all good, looks a little darker than I had wanted but that's ok, cooled, checked the gravity....1032??? Wtf? Cant be right, got my other hydrometer, same...sh*t. Do I boil it again? Arrghh I don't have time...

Now the upside is that it tasted and looked really nice. It's just going to be as weak as p*ss.

Yeast... lallemand Windsor.

I'm off to get some malt.

 

[Scrattajack]

It's just going to be as weak as p*ss.

Beef it up with sugar or golden syrup?

 

[pilgrimhudd]

Beef it up with sugar or golden syrup?

Still weighing it up, not sure if I want to thin it out even more... golden syrup is an idea though.

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

stick a bit of DME in it?

 

[pilgrimhudd]

stick a bit of DME in it?

Unfortunately i'm out....