PID, probe and SSR purchase

[Mark1964]

we got 3 10mm brass nuts made by springer on the forum i suggest you drop him a pm to ask him to make you a few
this is a pic of ours dont know if you can see well enough though

 

[tazuk]

was this not wot we was taking about last night with fittings from springer m8 :thumb:
in this post ?????

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=23071

What kind of fitting do you use to fit the PT100 probe to the boiler and MT? I see it has a screw thread, but what do people screw it into to give a good seal?

 

[Mark1964]

dont know but we never used a thermowell the probe screws straight through to the hlt

 

[mrlard]

Hi gents just a quick one i bought a set of rex c100 on ebay and have changed them over to pt100 probes no probs, also moved the decimal place and altered the upper and lower set limits.

:hmm: My question is when you first ran them did you just set them off on auto tune or did you have muck about with the other settings i.e P,I,D,Ar,T,Pc,db,t,Pd etc (my chinese falls down there!!! :mrgreen: )

 

[Northern Brewer]

Hi Mrlard

Nice one, relatively easy isn't it :thumb:

I haven't messed about with them yet in terms of autotune or other paramaters, worked out of the box when testing in a kettle keeping it to 68c but haven't done anything more expansive as I'm still tinkering with the mash tun and other pots, nearly finished, about 2 weeks away from completing the control box.

Cheers
NB

 

[mrlard]

yeap its a piece of pee provided you know the lock codes and you got a copy of the CD100 instructions in front of you. :thumb:

I am also getting close to finishing my panel now (just needs some paint) hence my question.

Have you fired up your thermopot HERMS yet NB? I must admit its got me tempted!

 

[Northern Brewer]

not yet - I haven't had much time however its all coming together now. Fixed a leak underneath the MT, put a cover on the HX element wiring, completed copper and HLT except for two solder joints - ran out of gas. Got to make a SS gauze hopstopper as per Aleman and finish of the consumer unit wiring and plumb water to the brew room - done most of it.

Edit - need to cut hole and ball valves in conical FV and build a fermentation cupboard too! Oh, the pump plumbing, and the etc. etc......

I've run out of beer and can't face the left over tins of mass market pap from Christmas that are floating around in the fridge so will have to brew very soon. :pray:

 

[mrlard]

right gents can you help? i have finished my panel and just started to fart around with the PIDs same as NB. the thing is i can't seem to work out what SL??? option puts them into pulse mode to switch the SSRs. I don't spose someone could take a look for me. it set in the same menu you change the probe over to pt100

i think it SL006 but not sure :wha:

 

[Northern Brewer]

Hi M

I don't think you have the same PID as me but my REX C100 SL6 option is greyed out. I believe you have to buy the V version not the M version to get SSR output. See my instructions here

May be possible with yours though.

Cheers
NB

 

[bobsbeer]

I have the same one you have REX-C-FK02-M *AN. Looking at the instructions I would say SL6 -0-- Main control time scalc output. But I am in the process of wiring mine up at the moment and haven't powered up yet. I will be interested in what you figure it to be.

 

[mrlard]

well i spent hours playing around with these last night and am beginning to think the ebayer i bought these from advert may have been a bit misleading. I think hes just copied and pasted the generic spec which is for the series not a particular model

Not to bothered as they only stand me in 28quid but a bit annoyed that the first HERMS brew may have to be postponed for a few weeks until i can get some more sorted. i will have another look into this at some point - plan to rip the top of one, (which will happen in frustration at some point) and see if the hardware is there to get a pulse output

but for now i think NB has hit the nail on the head only the V versions can control SSR's without the need for a independant 12v supply

 

[mrlard]

well as a temporary fix i have nicked a 12v feed from my pump supply and am switching positive though the PID relay. (so positive in on 4 out on 3) sticking the negative form the SSR back to the dc power supply.

will see how that goes for now

 

[bobsbeer]

An interesting forum article here on this problem.

 

[mrlard]

good find bobsbeer. time to pull em apart i think :thumb:

 

[mrlard]

Sorted i pulled them apart! Removed the internal relay and jumped the connections! Now They are switching my ssr's a treat :thumb: :thumb:

 

[mhewitson]

planing to do this myself too, £11 for a PID was too good to miss and im OK with a soldering iron, so it looks like an easy fix.

Thats me on the way to a boiler and AG brewing now....

 

[bobsbeer]

Just out of interest what happened when you first powered up your pid before conversion? Did you get any error messages?

 

[mrlard]

Nope! Its a mechanical relay so unless you supply power for it to switch on and off. It won't switch the SSR

 

[bobsbeer]

Just wondered. My pid seems to be the same as yours and I was going to rip the relay out and jump the connections. But I never got that far because I just got an error code on the input oooo across the top display. Thinking it is either a duff pid or pt100. At least I have a pid I can play with by ripping it apart.

 

[mrlard]

The 0000 error is because your probe is either not plugged in, not wired in correctly or you haven't changed the PID to recognise it. :thumb: :thumb: