Mash P.H

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snail59

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I understand Mash P.H should be around 5.3/5.5 how and when do I check/adjust the P.H planning a brew this weekend and want to check this as I have never bothered before.
 
The accepted practice is to mash in . . . wait for 10 minutes and then take a reading.

There are some narrow range pH papers that you can buy (Hop and Grape sell them that go from about 4.0 to 5.6), but your ability to use them accurately really depends on your ability to distinguish between two very similar shades, and colour perception varies greatly between individuals.

Personally I use a temperature compensating pH meter with a replaceable probe, but they are not cheap. Others have reported success with cheapy meters (35 quid) from Hanna, but I have used those in the past and they die rapidly in mash conditions . . .and accuracy is a little bit questionable. DIgital meters have a few available the Lutron looks like a good buy for 55 quid.
 
Thanks Tony. I have some PH papers coming from Brew UK. What do I use to correct any discrepancies ie raise/lower PH. I have Gypsum and C.R.S which I have been adding to the mash more because I have read you should, rather than because I need to :oops:
 
snail59 said:
Thanks Tony. I have some PH papers coming from Brew UK. What do I use to correct any discrepancies ie raise/lower PH. I have Gypsum and C.R.S which I have been adding to the mash more because I have read you should, rather than because I need to :oops:
Blindly adding stuff to the liquor without knowing what is in it, is not water treatment . . .it's witchcraft!!!! :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

Basically measure the alkalinity of the liquor and then use acid (CRS/hydrochloric/Sulphuric/phosphoric) to reduce the alkalinity to the right level for the beer style you are brewing. Treat all the liquor . . . Can't tell you what the pH needs to be as it's the alkalinity that is more important at this stage.

Add calcium (gypsum or calcium sulphate) to the grist to help the mash pH settle where you want it. I have liquor that is low in calcium so adding a blanket 150ppm calcium does it for me . . . If you have more calcium then adding a smaller amount will probably help you more. . . If you want bitter beer add gypsum if you want malty beer add calcium chloride. Add the amount to the grist to treat the volume of mash liquor only.

Mash in, wait 10 minutes and measure the pH, if you have followed the advice above it will be around 5.3 . . .anywhere between 5.2 and 5.8 is fine . . . . if its outside this next time you brew alter the calcium addition appropriately.

Run off the liquor, sparge and add an additional 100 ppm calcium to the boiler (treat the sparge volume).
 
Sounds great, I'm not sure that I'm getting enough acid in my diet...

is it a food grade product? and where would you get such a thing?
 
Yes it is food grade,

Supplied by Brupaks Stockists -
Also Rob at The Malt Miller
and also most LHBS
also by Murphys Home Brew

Depending on your alkalinity . . . . and how much liquor you have to treat you don't need much . . . I'm often using around 12ml . . . in 120L of liquor
 
Aleman said:
Basically measure the alkalinity of the liquor and then use acid (CRS/hydrochloric/Sulphuric/phosphoric) to reduce the alkalinity to the right level for the beer style you are brewing. Treat all the liquor . . . Can't tell you what the pH needs to be as it's the alkalinity that is more important at this stage.

Is that using a salifert kit?

Aleman said:
Add calcium (gypsum or calcium sulphate) to the grist to help the mash pH settle where you want it. I have liquor that is low in calcium so adding a blanket 150ppm calcium does it for me . . . If you have more calcium then adding a smaller amount will probably help you more. . .

Wish that was in your sig as I know it's your mantra and can then never find it when I need to remember which one to add!
 
look in the google docs, there is something to that effect there. I have a salifert kit if you want to have a go. Last time the carbonate I got was higher than i would have expected.
 
TheMumbler said:
Last time the carbonate I got was higher than I would have expected.
Yes, our friends at United Utilities are not drawing our water from Hawsewater any more, but using some of the upland reservoirs . . or even the boreholes . . . although you are normally looking at 130+ for the boreholes.
 
I don't suppose there is an all in one product with regards to this subject?

As in it won't be perfect but will get things close to where they should be regardsless of what water type.

As I'm typing this I realise I'm asking too much and the answer will be no lol.
 
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